Pics of your shops/garages/specs

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TacomaJD said:

Metal construction = better in pretty much every way.

Pole barn = pretty good but cheaper.

Honestly, what some of these folks have mentioned having in a pole barn style shop, is not far from what I can get a steel building for from local guy. Some of it is regional price differences and other is how much you plan to finish it out on the inside. If you go pole barn style, contact summertown metals for a quote. They manufacture their own steel and such in house, and have erection crews that work for them. They can quote you down to the penny how much it will cost minus concrete, that's your responsibility.

I'm not 100% which way I am going yet, depends on budget when I go to getting final quotes. I really want a 40x40, but may settle for 30x40 steel building if I have to, to ensure I can build a steel building instead of pole barn.

There's a reason commercial buildings are steel construction and not pole barn style. All depends on what size you want and what you are willing to pay. I dont want to have to deal with rotting, warped, sagging lumber in 20-30 yrs. Metal building is one and done.

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spend the extra coin on insulation. the more the merrier

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

Bumpers said:

I'm in the process of researching doing a shop building behind my new house. Im debating between a steel buiding and pole barn style. Im looking to do a 30x50 with 14' walls and a 6-8/12 roof with a overhang on the front of the building and lean to on the side. Anyone have any pros and cons to either ? I know the pole barn is more economical it seems

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Mine is built like a pole barn . The reason I went this route was to make it easier to frame in after the building was built . I used batted insulation 6in thick on walls and ceiling. I had central heat and air installed a few weeks back and the insulation helps out a ton.

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Steel just jumped 50%. Prepare your anus

Here is mine 32x40

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Awesome!!!!!!! ^^^^^^

poolman said:

Awesome!!!!!!! ^^^^^^

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just wait until you see what he parks in it next.........

Broady are you gonna let me store yours ??? That would be the nicest thing my shop has ever seen ????????

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Bumpers said:

I'm in the process of researching doing a shop building behind my new house. Im debating between a steel buiding and pole barn style. Im looking to do a 30x50 with 14' walls and a 6-8/12 roof with a overhang on the front of the building and lean to on the side. Anyone have any pros and cons to either ? I know the pole barn is more economical it seems

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In looking at the true definition of a pole barn, absolutely no way I would have built one over my steel building.

Here in Texas we have horribly expansive soil. So I have 12- 1ft piers drilled from 9ft to 14ft depending on location and thats blue rock before we quit drillin.

Then I poured a monolithic slab over that. The steel can handle more wind, roof weight for snow if that's an issue and much stronger to hang a large
I-beam from the center truss to run a movable chain hoist across the shop on.

I just don't think it's worth cutting the quality and strength over a relatively small cost difference in materials as well as "no foundation" as the definition states.

Other than that, overhang on the front was strongly recommended to me. I'm 30X40 and the lean-to is the bomb and I have 12x12 doors. Freakin sweet

Im so anxious to post pics. I'm still finishing inside. Will post up this winter

Edit: So I figured that pole barn is just slang for wood frame maybe some steel reinforcement thrown in here and there but not necessarily eliminating a foundation. Plus I suppose your finish out goals should be considered like above. I'm not gonna live in mine

Two different kinds of wood framing, stick framing like a house or pole barn, which consists of large posts being cemented in the ground, then running horizontal boards all around it including a sturdy header, and running metal siding vertically, or decked with OSB to later cover with vinyl siding or whatever as seen below. Wood or metal joists can be used for trusses.

Local guy builds cheapass pole barns amd only sets posts on the sides, then uses a couple 2x's nailed together as the supporting posts for the ends. I understand the metal siding actually plays a structural support role too, but I just don't like the way that one in the last pic is built at all.








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onetoncrawler said:

Broady are you gonna let me store yours ??? That would be the nicest thing my shop has ever seen ????????

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Lol, yeah man come get her !

Ain't nothing like black corrugated panel to reflect the suns rays. . . . . .

Then again they could be hangin tobacco in there

Oh and how weird is the second pic? To me at least

No rebar over the subfloor between the radiant tubing and I'm guessing super low profile reusable form boards?

Granted I don't do concrete for a living and there is snow on the ground there. Just way different than how we pour concrete here

Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

LightBnDr said:

Ain't nothing like black corrugated panel to reflect the suns rays. . . . . .

Then again they could be hangin tobacco in there

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I have a brown roof and tan sides on my old shop, to try and make it match the house. Its uninsulated too, so its like walking into an oven during peak summer. New shop will probably be either dark tan with something like taupe trim and maybe even doors to match trim, or all gray with white trim. Either way probably just make the roof color match the color of the sides, and this one will be insulated 100%.

LightBnDr said:

Oh and how weird is the second pic? To me at least

No rebar over the subfloor between the radiant tubing and I'm guessing super low profile reusable form boards?

Granted I don't do concrete for a living and there is snow on the ground there. Just way different than how we pour concrete here

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Regional difference I suppose. About the only rebar most ppl put in them around here is around the perimeter only, if pouring a drop footer on a monolithic pad. But even then, it's still not required. My old shop is a 20x24, monolithic pad on dirt, about a foot wide all the way around the pad is 6" thick to support structure weight, rest of the pad is 4" thick. Some ppl will do a drop footer like that and run rebar around the perimeter, but really if the dirt its on is right (here), you don't even really need rebar, unless maybe you are building a huge heavy building.

Also, in that picture, its essentially like pouring a driveway, none of the pad is supporting any of the structure. Although I can see where you may want rebar to keep from concrete cracking, moving, and bursting a pex line. Idk, floor heat is out of my budget so I ain't even trying to figure that one out. Haha.

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Yeah the expansive soil in our area is a beast. Just a sleeping giant. It's hard to battle.

Man I'd love soil that would stay put for 30 plus years

LightBnDr said:

Oh and how weird is the second pic? To me at least

No rebar over the subfloor between the radiant tubing and I'm guessing super low profile reusable form boards?

Granted I don't do concrete for a living and there is snow on the ground there. Just way different than how we pour concrete here

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Probably used fibermesh, but, I would want some steel in there as well.

I have a 50x70 red iron steel building with a full bathroom in it. Bought it from rhino steel building in Texas. Wish I had gone bigger it's full.

mgiles said:

I have a 50x70 red iron steel building with a full bathroom in it. Bought it from rhino steel building in Texas. Wish I had gone bigger it's full.

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It doesn't take long to fill them up. I want to add another 40' and a bathroom to my 40x60 in the next few years.

Re: Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

TacomaJD said:

I have a brown roof and tan sides on my old shop, to try and make it match the house. Its uninsulated too, so its like walking into an oven during peak summer. New shop will probably be either dark tan with something like taupe trim and maybe even doors to match trim, or all gray with white trim. Either way probably just make the roof color match the color of the sides, and this one will be insulated 100%.

Regional difference I suppose. About the only rebar most ppl put in them around here is around the perimeter only, if pouring a drop footer on a monolithic pad. But even then, it's still not required. My old shop is a 20x24, monolithic pad on dirt, about a foot wide all the way around the pad is 6" thick to support structure weight, rest of the pad is 4" thick. Some ppl will do a drop footer like that and run rebar around the perimeter, but really if the dirt its on is right (here), you don't even really need rebar, unless maybe you are building a huge heavy building.

Also, in that picture, its essentially like pouring a driveway, none of the pad is supporting any of the structure. Although I can see where you may want rebar to keep from concrete cracking, moving, and bursting a pex line. Idk, floor heat is out of my budget so I ain't even trying to figure that one out. Haha.

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I would consider putting the pex in the floor. It's not that expensive for the pipe, even if you never hook the rest of the system up.

paradisepwoffrd said:

I would consider putting the pex in the floor. It's not that expensive for the pipe, even if you never hook the rest of the system up.

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I ran 1200ft of it. My wife and I at night with only the lights on the mule. Over 1500 zip ties. Then mapped it on paper for later dates. Plus you can't pour concrete without your manifold installed and the system pressured. Otherwise you can spend all that time and money then have a hole that pukes water under your slab.

If you do all the labor yourself and research your materials well and school yourself on proper systems, yes it's incredibly cost efficient.

If you BS your way through with little to no understanding of how the systems work, or pay a plumber to run it all for you, It's the opposite.

My goal is to eventually install a mini split unit in mine so I have both a/c and heat. No need to fawk with floor heat. Plus I'm less bothered by the cold than I am the heat. Gonna try and do this shop right and not cut any corners.