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Author Topic: Pics of your shops/garages/specs  (Read 158908 times)
94xjsport94
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« Reply #750 on: May 17, 2018, 09:41:48 PM »

Am I crazy for thinking like this or would a 15k+ BTU PTAC (Hotel room) AC unit be worth the money? Talking less than a grand total.
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Will Herndon
Carrollton, GA
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« Reply #751 on: May 18, 2018, 05:46:50 AM »

Am I crazy for thinking like this or would a 15k+ BTU PTAC (Hotel room) AC unit be worth the money? Talking less than a grand total.
That's what my neighbor ran in his with 1 roll up door, one walk through door and a couple medium size shop windows and spray foam insulation

He said it cooled fantastic inside. I have no clue what he spent on energy
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matth_85
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« Reply #752 on: May 18, 2018, 05:53:21 AM »

Am I crazy for thinking like this or would a 15k+ BTU PTAC (Hotel room) AC unit be worth the money? Talking less than a grand total.

Should work great.  I am about to install a 1 Ton mini split in my bar/garage.  Basically just a glorified PTAC that is kinder to the eyes.
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NOVI FED COUPE
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« Reply #753 on: May 18, 2018, 08:18:27 AM »

Am I crazy for thinking like this or would a 15k+ BTU PTAC (Hotel room) AC unit be worth the money? Talking less than a grand total.

Would work fine. You can buy a mini split for about same price, but then install is more involved and more costly.
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TacomaJD
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« Reply #754 on: May 18, 2018, 08:22:45 AM »

Am I crazy for thinking like this or would a 15k+ BTU PTAC (Hotel room) AC unit be worth the money? Talking less than a grand total.
Please post up if you go this route and let us know Willard.

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94xjsport94
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« Reply #755 on: May 22, 2018, 12:18:36 AM »

I Will. I'd have to figure out where it would be best suited in my shop. I'm leaning that way if I decide to do anything. I need to insulate the attic area first though.
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Will Herndon
Carrollton, GA
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« Reply #756 on: May 28, 2018, 06:20:56 AM »

 I'm only coming in on the tail end of this, but before you guys go throwing out money on units, know this. 12.000 btuh is one ton of refrigeration, so a 4 ton unit is rated at 48,000 btuh. You can get a "Mini Split" type unit in a 4 ton, but that SOB will be expensive up front. They are super efficient and compared to a conventional system, will definitely pay for themselves over the lifespan of the equipment. When I size a system for a house/shop with common insulation (non spray foam) , I figure 600 sq ft/ton with 8 ft ceilings. (Or 4800 Ft3 per ton) That usually works out great without oversizing. You can however go to 800 sq ft /ton and be fine most of the time. If you decide to go the mini split route, you can add more systems to achieve your comfort if needed. Also go with a good brand! I can't stress this part enough!!!! I've had people use the cheapo ones off the internet (Pioneer for example) and they do not last. It's just like any other thing in life. you get what you pay for. Go with a Mitsubishi, Daikin or Fujitsu. I've personally had the best luck with Mitsubishi. If anyone wants any input on their particular building from me, feel free to PM me. Hope this helps  thumb
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Jeremy P*******r
Eclectic, ALABAMA
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« Reply #757 on: May 28, 2018, 11:09:58 AM »

we put a 24K BTU window unit (GE) in our welding shop at work.

It was $600 and will cool the 25x60 room (it's a lean-to, so it's only got 3 exterior walls, but the ceiling is 16')

the unit said it was "rated" for 1500 sq ft @ 8' ceilings, but damn it'll put out a lot of cold air.
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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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TacomaJD
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« Reply #758 on: May 28, 2018, 01:50:07 PM »

we put a 24K BTU window unit (GE) in our welding shop at work.

It was $600 and will cool the 25x60 room (it's a lean-to, so it's only got 3 exterior walls, but the ceiling is 16')

the unit said it was "rated" for 1500 sq ft @ 8' ceilings, but damn it'll put out a lot of cold air.
I was always under the impression window a/c units were hell on a power bill? Maybe those too are getting more efficient now?

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« Reply #759 on: May 28, 2018, 02:22:16 PM »

I was always under the impression window a/c units were hell on a power bill? Maybe those too are getting more efficient now?

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I would think that a properly installed window unit (I framed it in, trimmed, and caulked the case in place) would be quite efficient as there is no duct work. Its a 220v unit too.

Maybe the thought of high power bills comes from window units being normally put in old poorly sealed/insulated houses?
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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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94xjsport94
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« Reply #760 on: May 29, 2018, 12:19:37 AM »

Like this one Nick? https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-ENERGY-STAR-24-000-BTU-230-Volt-Electronic-Room-Window-Air-Conditioner-AEL24DV/206685322

I wouldnt mind throwing one of those in my shop at all. I guess I just dont want to waste the money putting one in and then it becoming a pain in the ass to run because I'm only in the shop for a couple hours at a time or it would take a long time to cool off because I'd only be turning it on when it was already warm in the shop.
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Will Herndon
Carrollton, GA
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« Reply #761 on: May 29, 2018, 04:21:25 AM »

Yep that’s it.
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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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civicmindedex79
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« Reply #762 on: May 29, 2018, 04:30:24 AM »

I'm only coming in on the tail end of this, but before you guys go throwing out money on units, know this. 12.000 btuh is one ton of refrigeration, so a 4 ton unit is rated at 48,000 btuh. You can get a "Mini Split" type unit in a 4 ton, but that SOB will be expensive up front. They are super efficient and compared to a conventional system, will definitely pay for themselves over the lifespan of the equipment. When I size a system for a house/shop with common insulation (non spray foam) , I figure 600 sq ft/ton with 8 ft ceilings. (Or 4800 Ft3 per ton) That usually works out great without oversizing. You can however go to 800 sq ft /ton and be fine most of the time. If you decide to go the mini split route, you can add more systems to achieve your comfort if needed. Also go with a good brand! I can't stress this part enough!!!! I've had people use the cheapo ones off the internet (Pioneer for example) and they do not last. It's just like any other thing in life. you get what you pay for. Go with a Mitsubishi, Daikin or Fujitsu. I've personally had the best luck with Mitsubishi. If anyone wants any input on their particular building from me, feel free to PM me. Hope this helps  thumb

So I have been tossing around the spray foam idea.  Job has been quoted at $10k so its a major expense in my book.  I seen you said NOT spray foam above.  How much does spray foam change the calculation?  Also this will be living quarters inside a spray foam building with rolled insulation in between the walls and blown insulation on the top in living quarters.  I am 99% we are going with this type unit on our new house.  The only draw back I have is the large open concept for living room, dining room, and kitchen getting the correct size and number of units placed correctly in the space.
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TacomaJD
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« Reply #763 on: May 29, 2018, 08:53:52 AM »

Like this one Nick? https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-ENERGY-STAR-24-000-BTU-230-Volt-Electronic-Room-Window-Air-Conditioner-AEL24DV/206685322

I wouldnt mind throwing one of those in my shop at all. I guess I just dont want to waste the money putting one in and then it becoming a pain in the ass to run because I'm only in the shop for a couple hours at a time or it would take a long time to cool off because I'd only be turning it on when it was already warm in the shop.
Keep in mind, that is a/c only, no heat. Mini split has both and is good at both.

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P
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« Reply #764 on: May 29, 2018, 09:00:11 AM »

My wife bought me a ceiling fan for my Bday, I hung it this weekend in my 30x50 14' walls. Im going to get another one for the back side. Gonna rock, nothing crazy expensive works really well. Damn, deleted the fan pic lol  heres headed to the lake yesterday instead LoL

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« Reply #765 on: May 29, 2018, 11:05:12 AM »

So I have been tossing around the spray foam idea.  Job has been quoted at $10k so its a major expense in my book.  I seen you said NOT spray foam above.  How much does spray foam change the calculation?  Also this will be living quarters inside a spray foam building with rolled insulation in between the walls and blown insulation on the top in living quarters.  I am 99% we are going with this type unit on our new house.  The only draw back I have is the large open concept for living room, dining room, and kitchen getting the correct size and number of units placed correctly in the space.

An easy rule of thumb for spray foam is 900 sq ft /ton.  However, different installers use different R-value insulation and this greatly affects the heat transfer characteristics. You would be better suited doing a load calculation with your builder and HVAC contractor. The spray foam is amazing, and expensive! But I truly think it's worth it.
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Jeremy P*******r
Eclectic, ALABAMA
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Listen, if I ever am the first one up an obstacle and get to name it, you best bet your sweet little cheese biscuits it will be called “brokeback Mtn”
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« Reply #766 on: May 29, 2018, 11:42:44 AM »

I have a heat/cool window unit in my 25x35 fiberglass insulated shop. Similar to this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-18-500-BTU-230-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-FFRH18L2RR/305194839
It works well. In the winter I don't keep it too warm for power usage so I have a gas torpedo heater that I can bring the air temp up fast then let the unit take over. It cools very well. I usually keep it on 78 all the time during the summer. Once everything is at temp it doesn't run much unless I'm opening the doors. And if they are not open too long, the walls, concrete and everything else that was already cooled will bring the temp right back down.
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Barton

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« Reply #767 on: May 29, 2018, 12:23:25 PM »

I have a heat/cool window unit in my 25x35 fiberglass insulated shop. Similar to this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-18-500-BTU-230-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-FFRH18L2RR/305194839
It works well. In the winter I don't keep it too warm for power usage so I have a gas torpedo heater that I can bring the air temp up fast then let the unit take over. It cools very well. I usually keep it on 78 all the time during the summer. Once everything is at temp it doesn't run much unless I'm opening the doors. And if they are not open too long, the walls, concrete and everything else that was already cooled will bring the temp right back down.

As it should. 25*35 is 875 sq ft. 18,500 btuh window unit is a little over 1.5 tons. @ 600 sq ft/ton, 1.5 tons = 900 sq ft. The only difference being the slab and ceiling heights. That slab hadn't even crossed my mind! Excellent point sir, it's no different than a cooler working better when full of product v when empty.
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Jeremy P*******r
Eclectic, ALABAMA
RIGLESS 4 NOW
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Listen, if I ever am the first one up an obstacle and get to name it, you best bet your sweet little cheese biscuits it will be called “brokeback Mtn”
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« Reply #768 on: May 29, 2018, 01:47:01 PM »

Metal construction = better in pretty much every way.

Pole barn = pretty good but cheaper.

Honestly, what some of these folks have mentioned having in a pole barn style shop, is not far from what I can get a steel building for from local guy. Some of it is regional price differences and other is how much you plan to finish it out on the inside. If you go pole barn style, contact summertown metals for a quote. They manufacture their own steel and such in house, and have erection crews that work for them. They can quote you down to the penny how much it will cost minus concrete, that's your responsibility.

I'm not 100% which way I am going yet, depends on budget when I go to getting final quotes. I really want a 40x40, but may settle for 30x40 steel building if I have to, to ensure I can build a steel building instead of pole barn.

There's a reason commercial buildings are steel construction and not pole barn style. All depends on what size you want and what you are willing to pay. I dont want to have to deal with rotting, warped, sagging lumber in 20-30 yrs. Metal building is one and done.

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ended up going with a steel building. Got a 30x50 with a 15x35 lean to on the side. front of the building will be open so we can stick frame it brick and stone the front to match my house. Cant wait to get her going
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« Reply #769 on: May 29, 2018, 03:05:08 PM »

New shop getting close to being done and ready to start wiring and hanging lights, any thoughts on LED lighting? Worth the extra money? If y'all have bought any where is the best place to purchase some? Thanks in advance!
LED all the way for me...cost extra up front but better lighting and cheaper in the long run

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bbone
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« Reply #770 on: May 29, 2018, 03:18:47 PM »

x2.   Went with regular lights...lasted about 2/3 years.  just switched to LED.  worth it.


LED all the way for me...cost extra up front but better lighting and cheaper in the long run

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Ben Bone

Columbus,GA
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« Reply #771 on: May 29, 2018, 04:17:34 PM »

For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights.  They’re not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright. 

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Bumpers
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« Reply #772 on: June 11, 2018, 08:16:46 AM »

For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights.  They’re not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright. 



those look nice. Which ones did you go with? They have alot of different priced ones on there webbsite
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civicmindedex79
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« Reply #773 on: June 11, 2018, 08:57:48 AM »

For the guys with higher ceilings I very highly recommend going with these led ufo halo lights.  They’re not the cheapest but they are ridiculously bright. 



What size is the shop?  I see there are 4 on the side in the pic.  Did you do a total of 8?
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« Reply #774 on: June 11, 2018, 09:37:48 AM »

What size is the shop?  I see there are 4 on the side in the pic.  Did you do a total of 8?

Here is the size of the shop:

I’m right in the middle of building a 30x40x12 red iron building.  It will have freestand 12’ awning on the 40’ wall over the garage doors.   It’s still a few weeks from being erected but price wise it’s very close to what a pole barn or carport structure was going to cost. 

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