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Brads buggy / car build

I try to at all costs set my rams back. a little angle when going straight, and straight tie rods when turned about 20*, and then a little in angle while turned 30+*. set it back for protection, packaging and angle reasons. no reason at all to push it out unless it makes it so you can't stuff as far.
 
When Neal ordered his steeering from PSC we asked them the proper mounting situation. They said they should be perfectly staight when turned to full lock. That is when most of the cyilnder is exposed and is most vulnerable to bending and breakage, so the straighter it is the better off strenght wise you are. When going strait or turning a little more of the cylinder is inside the ram so to say making it less likely to bend. Hope this helps!
 
pretty much, but with the ram tucked in so the bolt is scraping the cover with 8" travel you can't get that far unless you push up. then it hurts your uptravel. if you set it above the cover, you can get the angle, but why. you just wasted uptravel.
conclusion: set it back as far as you can
 
You want to make sure when you are at lock your ram is bottomed out and not still pushing. I had that problem and did not know it. That was the reason for sheering off bolts in my knuckles twice. Your arms will have a bit of an angle when wheels are straight, but at full lock should be pretty much a straight line.
 
Let's talk color
I'll be rokin da pink. I'm thinking of doing black with alittle bit of metal flake, undecided what color flake. Then all panels and hood pink.
 
kid rok said:
I'll be rokin da pink. I'm thinking of doing black with alittle bit of metal flake, undecided what color flake. Then all panels and hood pink.

Flake is cool until you try to match it after you have trashed it. Keep the tube simple, rock da' PINK.
 
Have you tried that Hammertone finish stuff in a can? It gives a cool finish and is rattle can based so easy to touch up and what not. Downside, I think its kinda pricey at Lowes and Home Depot
 
i painted my chassis with Rustoleum "hammered" paint (copper) and quart jars were around 12 bucks... but its a PAIN to spray even, and wouldn't recommend it.
 
My dad and I always spray our own cars. We usually just setup shop outside and spray. Automotive paint just looks better and last longer, and rattle can just plain sucks in my book. It's ok for small stuff but a whole chassis no way.



Made a little head way this weekend, got the belly some what done, the front shock hoops are on and the front struts are mounted. It's starting to take shape.
 
kid rok said:
My dad and I always spray our own cars. We usually just setup shop outside and spray. Automotive paint just looks better and last longer, and rattle can just plain sucks in my book. It's ok for small stuff but a whole chassis no way.

That does not mean you cannot match a spray color to make touchup in the future easier, that is what TK did.
 
That does not mean you cannot match a spray color to make touchup in the future easier, that is what TK did.
I didn't read the post that way . I see what your saying. I dought I will be doing alot of touch up. With my drivin skills I probably never even put a scatch on it. ::)
 
kid rok said:
I didn't read the post that way . I see what your saying. I dought I will be doing alot of touch up. With my drivin skills I probably never even put a scatch on it. ::)

You going to put a big vat in the back yard, and just dunk it between rides? :flipoff1:
 
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My collection
 
Speeding said:
Man that thing is lookin' good! I really like the lines on the front.

Agreed....

don't tell your wife you put her dildo's on the front of your bugyy.....
 
She didn't like the price of those didldos when they showed up in the bank account.
 
Looks badass. And the ORI's bring the swank!


Whats the scoop on the 19" Model A rim?
 

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