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3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

smbroady82 said:
Care to elaborate?
Always smells funny, slips from time to time and never has seemed to fully engauge. Also jerks a lot. Been doing this since new and only has around 5200 miles on it.
 
Re: 3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

I put a valair towing dual disc quiet in my 06 so far loving it


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smbroady82 said:
what does yours do?

Bought it used with about 100k on it so not sure what I have. I assume stock clutch by how it drives and what it takes to slip it. Can't slip it without the tuner turned up to at least tow mode pulling weight under almost full throttle. Used to not be able to. On performance i could smoke it empty.
Basically now pulling two heavy rigs, if traffic makes me loose momentum on a good hill i go to 5th gear and 55-60 mph on the interstate to keep it hooked. I may give it one more trip.
 
Re: 3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

The south end con OFE is only for 450rwhp. With a newer common rail cummins you would be over that with just a tuner. For anything more I would get their street dual disc. When the clutch is depressed it will have a little rattle to it but it's only when the clutch is pushed in. I have been selling south end clutches for a while now and have very little complaints, the ones I did have south bend took care of me quickly.
 
3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

If it's not adjusted right it will slip make sure u have free travel


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Just some info I have acquired since the last posts. I have been talking to folks and companies about different products for my application. I found out that the smarty jr will put 800 ft lbs to the wheels instead of crank like I previously thought. I will be purchasing a South Bend 1947-ok-HD kit. Supposedly the new hd organic version will handle the power and weight I plan on throwing at it and give similar to stock feel and characteristics. The HD version is relatively new I believe but have heard good things if installed property. SB seems very confident in it for a single disk organic. If anyone has experience with it let me know. Will probably be putting it in after RBD.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sbb-1947-ok-hd
 
Nice, I have not heard of that one before, part number says NV5600 and its good for 425/900. Southbend makes a good clutch, I sell a bunch of them for the fords!
 
I hadn't either till I talked directly with South Bend. They sounded very convenient in the HD version taking care of what most said I would need a dual disk for.
 
3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

I've made the single disk mistake once already, had one rated for 400hp and smoked it within 14 months... Spend the money right the first time and you won't be disappointed...

I'm running one of their 3250 street dual disks on my nv4500. Has very good street/pulling manners and holds the 470 rwhp my trucks putting out with ease.


/i\
 
Thanks for the feedback. Do you remember what specific single disk you smoked? Not as much a money issue as drive ability when not at speed. I had been recommend the street dual disk by someone else too. Also heard they can be jumpy backing up unloaded or loaded in 4wd. Been told higher power makes them have better manners. Not really concerned about chatter or noise of a dual disk. I should be at about 425 rwhp. I have zero plans for additional engine mods.
 
Re: 3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

It was their dynamax con-o. It was their 13 inch conversion setup rated at 400hp and 800 ft lbs ... The truck only had a tuner at the time so maybe 350 hp

I will say the dual disk is jumpy when backing up in general but it was easy to get used to


/i\
 
southbend is a great clutch we run them in our trucks and I put them in other peoples trucks at the shop.you have to get the right clutch for the truck power and load.Peter at southbend is great to deal I have been a dealer for 10 years.
 
I don't drive my truck all that often so when something changes gradually over time I generally realize it since I'm not getting used to small changes every day. When I first got mine only about the last 25% of pedal did anything for the clutch. I felt like over time that has been getting less and less and after driving it the other day I am confirming to myself that it is true. I'm down to probably about 13% of the pedal now. This makes me think the clutch may be on its way out. Truck is all stock, will remain all stock until the end of time, 116,000 miles. One thing I never liked about the stock clutch is that it had a dead-spot. It was this weird area where it grabs, then slips for a brief second, then grabs again. It almost feels like if it has a dual-mass flywheel tit is binding the springs up and then the springs are releasing causing a minute slip as the two masses snap back together. I could just be reading too much into it though. Anyone else experience this with the stock clutch? What do people recommend for me? I would like my clutch to be a little less "tricky." By that I mean right now you have to be perfect with the application of power to clutch to get a smooth start. Otherwise it is harsh and wants to buck. I feel like all other manuals I've ever driven are more forgiving.
 
The-Boss said:
Just some info I have acquired since the last posts. I have been talking to folks and companies about different products for my application. I found out that the smarty jr will put 800 ft lbs to the wheels instead of crank like I previously thought. I will be purchasing a South Bend 1947-ok-HD kit. Supposedly the new hd organic version will handle the power and weight I plan on throwing at it and give similar to stock feel and characteristics. The HD version is relatively new I believe but have heard good things if installed property. SB seems very confident in it for a single disk organic. If anyone has experience with it let me know. Will probably be putting it in after RBD.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sbb-1947-ok-hd

Looking around on the net a bit, it appears that SB is referring to that clutch as their "stock replacement kit," which sounds about like what I want.
 
patooyee said:
Looking around on the net a bit, it appears that SB is referring to that clutch as their "stock replacement kit," which sounds about like what I want.

The 1947-o or ok with flywheel I believe is the similar to stock replacement. The one I listened is just a new HD version that is thicker and has some new materials being used. I bet the non HD would be perfect for you.
 
Valiar all the way. other than price I have never heard any complaints. Plus you can call them and speak directly with Dan the owner. As soon as i get the money i'm putting one in my truck.
 
Alrighty then ... The Boss helped me install a 1947-ok-HD SB clutch in my 2005 Cummins NV5600 last night. After a day of driving it I fricking love it. It acts like an actual clutch instead of an on-off switch like my old clutch used to. Its totally predictable as opposed to the old one which felt like you never knew what you were going to get. BUT, when trying to shift into a gear while stopped it is very difficult, much more so than the old clutch ever was. I realize that this means that the clutch is not fully disengaging when i press the pedal. I called SB about it and the first guy who picked up the phone immediately knew what I was talking about and recommended replacing my master and slave cylinders with new ones. I asked if they sold an upgrade and he said they did but I didn't need it because the 1947-ok-hd was designed to work with stock hydraulics. He seemed very confident that my issue was an old hydraulic system that was no longer producing enough pressure to fully disengage the new pressure plate. This is kind of hard for me to imagine though, to me if the hydraulics are bleeding off pressure it should affect more than just shifting into gear when stopped. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
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