3rd Gen Cummins Clutch Reccomendations

Yep, I just had the same problem last week and new hydraulics fixed it. Stock replacement hydraulics will work just fine, you really don't need the upgraded ones until you get into the higher rated clutches.

MoparMan said:

Yep, I just had the same problem last week and new hydraulics fixed it. Stock replacement hydraulics will work just fine, you really don't need the upgraded ones until you get into the higher rated clutches.

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Thanks. After I posted that I happened upon a damaged box special on Amazon for the new slave and master assembly filled and bled for $30. I figured for $30 I might as well try it.

One of my friends replaced his with the south bend master and slave cylinder because the truck shop he bought the clutch from said that was the only way to fix it. Probably BS but it worked great anyways.

I went with a dual disc organic from valair. It's rated for 600hp and I'm running it at 500hp. Absolutely hate it. Everywhere I go ppl ask what's wrong with my truck. Lol loud as hell but I guess it's a necessary evil.

jneese9125 said:

I went with a dual disc organic from valair. It's rated for 600hp and I'm running it at 500hp. Absolutely hate it. Everywhere I go ppl ask what's wrong with my truck. Lol loud as hell but I guess it's a necessary evil.

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they are extremely loud

A south bend dual disk is loud and sounds like ****

OK so one of the reasons I originally replaced my original clutch was because 3/4 of my pedal did nothing and only 1/4 of it actuated 100% of the clutch action. So when I finished the 1947-ok-hd install that was resolved, I had a nice, full pedal, it acted like a dream when I was driving it. But when it was running sitting still and you tried to shift it into any gear it was damn near impossible. The clutch obviously wasn't being actuated completely. South Bend told me to get new stock hydraulics to fix that issue. I installed those today and that issue is gone but I am back to 3/4 of the pedal doing nothing and the last 1/4 doing everything. WTF??? I'm going to try some of the myriad of bleeding procedures I've read on the internet tomorrow despite the fact the the master/slave kit I got came "pre-bled." That's all I can think of.

BTW, SB isn't giving me any warm or fuzzy feelings about all of this. I have no doubt that it is a great product, I felt how nice it was the instant I drove it. But their tech support has been basically non existent and the guy I talk to on the phone seems irritated that he has to speak to me at all, doesn't listen to what I have to say, is borderline rude, and is obviously just trying to get me off the phone as fast as possible. That and the manual that came with it is like 17 pages long and every page there are 3 new ways to void your warranty. And then on the registration card they ask for your ASE certification number, so I'm guessing since I'm not ASE certified my warranty is null and void from the get-go.

Anyway, anyone got any advice on the hydraulics? The pedal is firm the entire length of travel like I would expect. Just the first 3/4 of it don't so **** and the remaining 1/4 travel is so little that its basically an on-off switch. There's not enough space to moderate your foot so you're either jerkign around by letting off too quick or slipping the clutch every time you take off. It was a very noticeable difference with the original hydraulics. I could tell the difference instant the truck first moved 2' in the driveway.

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Is the push rod adjustable at the pedal?

My buddies that had gm LS cars with t56 trans had issues with clutch bleeding and such

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There's no adjustability in the pedal or push rod. There is no bleed point in the hydraulics either. The service manual plainly states that you can not bleed the hydraulics and the master and slave cylinders are replaced as a sealed pre-bled unit. There are redneck engineered methods that have been successful that are documented well on the internet though.

Which south bend clutch do y'all recommend for 6.7 dodge 3500 has efi live for daily driving and towing?

crawler 129 said:

Which south bend clutch do y'all recommend for 6.7 dodge 3500 has efi live for daily driving and towing?

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Street double disc.

Finally got around to installing my new clutch I've had forever sitting in my shop.

Matt from Irate diesel hooked me up with the newer SB dual disk, organic, new hydraulics, slave cylinder and all that jazz.

I can't believe how much quieter the new ones are. My bud has the exact same truck with a dd Valair and it's night and day difference.

Liking it so far, may adjust it a little bit but I'm trying to log some miles on it before towing with it this weekend.

Ill look up the part #s and post the exact kit later.

I can give an update on mine. I installed the 1947-ok-hd from SB a couple years ago and it has performed flawlessly. Feels stock at the pedal and I have yet to slip it still pulling heavy and fast.

How many of y'all replaced the two piece flywheel for a solid one while swapping clutch out Is it worth the extra money to do so

NTIDWELL said:

How many of y'all replaced the two piece flywheel for a solid one while swapping clutch out Is it worth the extra money to do so

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It is very much worth it. The dual mass flywheel is what usually fails and tears up other stuff with it.

NTIDWELL said:

How many of y'all replaced the two piece flywheel for a solid one while swapping clutch out Is it worth the extra money to do so

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Absolutely.

NTIDWELL said:

How many of y'all replaced the two piece flywheel for a solid one while swapping clutch out Is it worth the extra money to do so

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I did


Here is the exact one I ordered, I forgot to post it up the other day.

SDD3250-GK-ORG
2005.5-2017 5.9L & 6.7L
Transmission: G56
Part # Dual Disc for 550 hp, 1100 ft. lbs. torque
Includes the Hyd-X-.750