Enclosed trailer questions/opinions

As soon as it is financially wise for me to make the move, I want an enclosed trailer to haul my rig in and start camping in. Think my rig is like 13-14' long tip to tip, so a 24'-26' would be plenty for me. I then of course, would sell my 18' all metal car hauler to comp some of the costs of the enclosed. My car hauler has dual 3500# axles with one braking axle, which seems to be more than enough for what I haul, which is only my rig, (estimated 4500#, plus probably 2500 approximate pounds of trailer. So I am flipping through enclosed trailers on craigslist and the ones in the $4k range mostly have the same dual 3500# axles under it, but both are braking axles on some which is good. But I figured they would have heavier axles in such a big trailer?

Say by the time I have my rig in it, bunch of tools, camping gear, maybe build a pretty solid built work bench/storage area out of wood, mount generator on front, and just fill it full of whatever junk I need when I go wheeling (spare 39" and trailer tire(s), extra propane tanks, heater) do you think that would be pushing the limit of the dual 3500# axles? I mean what is the realistic safe operating weight capacity of a dual 3500# axle trailer?

Something like this is what I've been looking at, they are around $4,000-$4,500
http://bham.craigslist.org/hvd/4796670904.html

Then it looks like the ones with 5200# axles are around $5650 like this one
http://nashville.craigslist.org/bfd/4788311699.html

Then the 7000# version is roughly $6300
http://bham.craigslist.org/hvd/4790524133.html

And I'm also questioning how good my ole 2500hd 6.0L gasser will pull a loaded enclosed! Ultimately I want to get to where I have a decent way of camping when I go wheeling. So far, that could be done best by enclosed trailer, or other and less luxurious options include buying a camper top for my truck or a 3/4 ton suburban to camp in. A slide-in truck camper isn't really an option because a nice one is so damn expensive for how small the bastards are and I really don't want to fawk with loading one up and chaining it down every time I want to camp.

Not only what you have stated but having your rig somewhat sucured. When parked between weekends would be a huge benefit to someone without a garage or use it for a daily driver. I'm In the same situation I want I e to camp in just can't justifie the cost right now. But I have found nice "race car hauler" on cl and local traders. Try searching racing junk.

My 24' enclosed weighs 9,800 pounds with the 38 Special (4,583#). It has 5,500 pound axles and both brake. I go through a trailer tire about every 6 months or less. So much wish I had 7,000 axles. My Chevy 1500 with 6.0 and 4.10 gears pulls it okay with a weight distributing hitch. But only gets 7.3 pulling it rather than the sucky 12.5 I normally get.

Eddyj said:

Not only what you have stated but having your rig somewhat sucured. When parked between weekends would be a huge benefit to someone without a garage or use it for a daily driver. I'm In the same situation I want I e to camp in just can't justifie the cost right now. But I have found nice "race car hauler" on cl and local traders. Try searching racing junk.

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Yeah, I could start parking my tow rig in my shop out of the weather then too! lol.

Main big plus of an enclosed is always having all my **** in it to go wheeling, so I don't have to pack up so much and unpack when I get home. Just throw everything I need in there and fawking leave it! My buddy has a sweet enclosed he hauls his drag truck in, nothing special really, but has a bunch of lights in it, flat panel tv, nice cabinets/work bench, a/c and heater, generator mounted on tongue, etc. Nothing ritzy or fancy, but exactly what would make camping enjoyable for me. I don't camp much because I've never really had a way that was enjoyable to me, so I usually end up just driving home late at night. Which some times isn't the safest alternative to camping although I've cut back a lot on that this year.

I just want somewhere I can blow up an air mattress, turn the heater on, snooze, take a whore bath the next morning and cook something to eat on a shitty coleman stove, and I'll feel like I am rolling in JohnG's motorhome! :****:

JohnG said:

My 24' enclosed weighs 9,800 pounds with the 38 Special (4,583#). It has 5,500 pound axles and both brake. I go through a trailer tire about every 6 months or less. So much wish I had 7,000 axles. My Chevy 1500 with 6.0 and 4.10 gears pulls it okay with a weight distributing hitch. But only gets 7.3 pulling it rather than the sucky 12.5 I normally get.

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Good comparison info there. I usually get somewhere around 8 or 9 pulling my rig on my car hauler now, so that won't change entirely too much.

Tell me about your tire issue. How would going to a bigger axle save you from going through so many tires? Are you running bias ply or radials and what ply?

Re:

I have noticed the same thing looking at enclosed. If you look at 28-30ft they about all have 5200lb axles.

John, what size wheels are you running? If your not, stepping up to a 16" wheel might help if you can fit them.

I know trailer tires have been covered in several threads on here, and the majority said once they switched to radials, there were no more issues blowing tires off prematurely.


This is the exact trailer I think I'd be happy with 8.5x24 tall enough and wide enough for my rig, priced at only $4090 brand new. Just don't know about the axles vs. the weight I'd have it loaded with.

http://nwga.craigslist.org/fod/4712767254.html

3500 lb axles aren't enough. Figure the trailer weight and extra parts, tools, camping gear and coolers full of beer and ice you're already close to 4000 lbs......
Another thing to consider is with an enclosed it's so easy to "just throw it in the trailer" and drag extra stuff along. I would suggest 5200 lb axles at a bare minimum.

^^^^Pretty much this. You will throw all kinds of **** in there that you probably won't need, especially if you are gonna camp in it.

My enclosed is 28', I haul the buggy, tools, air compressor, and all kinds of other stuff that I have accumulated while camping out of it. I don't know what it weighs loaded, but my Duramax only gets 13 MPG at the most while pulling it.

All that said though, I freaking love having the enclosed for when I go off somewhere for a night. The only thing I need is a AC/Heater to go on top, I've been using a freaking space heater and it just doesn't quite get it done.

Re:

paradisepwoffrd said:

I have noticed the same thing looking at enclosed. If you look at 28-30ft they about all have 5200lb axles.

John, what size wheels are you running? If your not, stepping up to a 16" wheel might help if you can fit them.

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15" 6 lug, load range E radials.

TacomaJD said:

I know trailer tires have been covered in several threads on here, and the majority said once they switched to radials, there were no more issues blowing tires off prematurely.

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Radials is all I have ever run. Even roll with two spares due to low confidence.

Watch what mfg you buy from. Read the reviews on them. Lot of southern mfg build a cheap trailer by putting stud 24" oc on the walls and roof. Which causes them to wave going down the road. They use unsealed wiring harnesses for the lights. Do ur homework on them. Spend a little more and get a better trailer that will last you for a long time. Carmate has one of the best warranties lifetime on the floor and roof and lights. Cost you more but we'll worth the money.

screamn56 said:

Watch what mfg you buy from. Read the reviews on them. Lot of southern mfg build a cheap trailer by putting stud 24" oc on the walls and roof. Which causes them to wave going down the road. They use unsealed wiring harnesses for the lights. Do ur homework on them. Spend a little more and get a better trailer that will last you for a long time. Carmate has one of the best warranties lifetime on the floor and roof and lights. Cost you more but we'll worth the money.

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The ones I've been browsing through are 16" on center built. I figure it's just like anything else....I get the idea of hey, I can afford a $4k trailer, then after really researching, I find that well for a little more, I can get badass axles......and for a little more I can get one that is framed sturdier.....and for a little more I can get one with this or that....then end up making myself go ahead and buy the expensive one I initially tried to avoid. Same ole process, dammit.

Options can double the price of a trailer. Here is a site I found you can use a shopping cart to build.

Trailers:

http://trailers123.com/product-category/auto-carrier-trailers/

Options:

http://trailers123.com/master-options-2/

Some options are just required: roof vent, tie down points, tongue jack, spare tire/rim, heavy rear ramp, extra height so rig fits.

Mine went from $5,600 for a 28' to $13,020 optioned out, still a lot of stuff I have now not included, air conditioner, generator compartment, 110 lights, cabinets, finished interior.

Buy used or make damn sure you know what you are buying if new.

Buying a "cheap" trailer is like buying a trailer house and wondering why it didnt last 20 years and also wondering why you cant give it away for 10 cents on the dollar you paid for it.

Buy a trailer from a brand who stands behind their product and actually has the experience to put out a product that they can stand behind. There is a new trailer mfg every other week claiming to build the best trailer and blah blah blah. DONT be a chump, these are some brands you can trust to make a long term investment that a trailer is; Pace, Haulmark, United, continental cargo, (atc and featherlite if you have the $) etc...

Also just because it is from those brands dont assume its fine and dandy because its the right size. You have to buy the trailer that meets the specs you need. Best advice i ever got was buy more trailer than you think you need because you will fill it up and wish you had and extra 2-4'.

I have a 20' haulmark, 2001 I think. Between what I have put on it, and the previous owner, it's got 20k plus miles with several coast to coast pulls. My rig, all spares, coolers etc weighs in at 8200 lbs. has 5k axles with brakes all around. Tires last 2-4k miles except the crap Wally World tires i put on last trip. I carry 2 spares.
I have pulled this trailer with a tundra 5.7 @9mpg, and most recently with my Ford F-150 Eco boost 6cyl. @8mpg. Biggest issue is wind resistance. Anything over 70 mph and the gas starts to suck. Spend the money and get a quality trailer, and heavier axles. 3500 lb axles aren't going to cut it. The trailer and rig alone will max out your capacity.

also dont forget about sales tax you cant avoid it buying new but you sure can when buying used its a good chunk of savings.

Rootar said:

also dont forget about sales tax you cant avoid it buying new but you sure can when buying used its a good chunk of savings.

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Some places, you can! Just can't get it tagged going that route lol. I gave $1800 cash for my 18' car hauler brand new no paperwork...of course all dealers aren't like that. I'd have to go to the court house and register it as built by me or something like that in order to put a tag on it. Tag would probably be a bit more important on an enclosed though

anybody ever haul 2 jeeps in an enclosed trailer?

You will love the enclosed trailer. I recently just bought a 24' enclosed to haul 2 rzr's in and camp in when I go out of town. It makes goin so easy everything is always in there ready to go! Same when you get back just drop the trailer and done, it is awesome.

fordf250 said:

You will love the enclosed trailer. I recently just bought a 24' enclosed to haul 2 rzr's in and camp in when I go out of town. It makes goin so easy everything is always in there ready to go! Same when you get back just drop the trailer and done, it is awesome.

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Exactly what I'm looking forward to! Unless something crazy happens, I should have one some time next year. Just getting my plan straight and an idea of what I'm about to end up spending, so I can start arranging **** to make it happen.