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BeerJ's BuzzBuggy Build-o-rama!

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,925
Location
Amish Country
Well I guess I'm far enough along where I have something to show. This will be one of those "slow" builds for 2 reasons. A; because I ain't rich and 2; because it takes me multiple hours sometimes to build the simplest little tabs and such. This is also my first real attempt at fabrication. Never bent a tube before, never used a notcher etc.

Picked up a chassis built by Todd Puckett back in the spring. That was a nice little 24 hr round trip.

Ever since then I've been grabbing parts and a few needed tools. Made these adjustable jackstands so I can keep everything level.


Th400

'06 Super duty 60

Rogue Fab bender


Pholmann hooked me up with a nice lq4.

14 bolt ready for mock up


This is where I'm at now. Atlas just arrived 2 days ago. 3.8 with 300m input and output. Seats came also. Need to recoup funds before I can get wheels, tires and suspension stuff but I've got materials and time so I'm gonna focus on the interior until then. Baby steps. Special thanks to 5BrothersFabrication and Pholmann for putting up with all my questions.








 
No derail at all. I love it. Had it together in about an hour. Bends 1.75 .120 dom like a champ. 90°+ on the first stroke. Though I found out the hard way that the 4.5 clr die can't do .095. Apparently the 6" will though.
 
No problem man. For the price, they're hard to beat. Plus the air over hydro is sweet. Almost as nice as the built in bottle openers.
 
Where the heck did you have to drive from to get that? Dang that is far. Looking good though. Are you going to be able to leave the diff in that location on the 60?
 
bend it slower and make sure it doesnt slip against the forming die. Im not familiar with the rogue fab bender much but mine will do .095
 
pholmann said:
Damn those seats look comfy as hell. It's coming along nicely.
SHELBS44 said:
Looks good and damn them seats look soft as hell. flashemifyougotem. Keep it up
Thanks guys. They're awesome. Definitely worth the extra over Corbeau's. Needed something comfortable while I sit and make engine noises while drinking beer.
nhl_bullitt said:
Where the heck did you have to drive from to get that? Dang that is far. Looking good though. Are you going to be able to leave the diff in that location on the 60?
South central Pa to Kentucky. The turnpike was closed on our way back so we ran 45 mph local roads from about Pittsburgh the rest of the way. Looks like the driveshaft will clear. Won't know for sure until the suspension is in but looks like if anything I'll just need to clock the tcase down a little, which I have plenty of room to do.
offroadr1 said:
bend it slower and make sure it doesnt slip against the forming die. Im not familiar with the rogue fab bender much but mine will do .095
I talked to Joe at rogue right away cause I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. He said .120 is the minimum for the 4.5 die. I can get about 20° before it starts wrinkling. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Eddyj said:
Where did you get the thread and adjusters for your jacks?
Homedepot.com http://m.homedepot.com/p/PRO-SERIES-Stem-Jacks-4-Pieces-GSASJ-4/202676089?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cBase&gclid=CKvUscCz4McCFdSQHwodiEwL8g&gclsrc=aw.ds
A little more work than just buying a set but all the ones I saw that were tall enough were super expensive, relatively speaking.

Just a tiny small update. Got the trans shifter where it's comfortable. Thinking tcase shifters will go to the right of it and just a touch further back.


Also looks like the orbital will need to go on top of the dash bar. There's room below but I don't want it too crammed under there. I might just cut 4" out of the tube and put a box in between, flush with the bottom. That way I don't loose room underneath and will have minimal height increase on the top.

What size steering wheel do most guys run? I've got a 15" and it just seems huge. Thinking 10" or 12" would be better.
 
Need some opinions. I'm gonna run a bar across for the top of the dash. This will allow room for the orbital and gauges without obscuring the view. Right now I have a piece bent from the "door frame" :dunno: up and across. That would still need a small piece going back to the A pillar on each corner. Option B is in red. Nix the upright and just come off the A pillar and across. Then it would be essentially 1 piece of aluminum over the center console, across the face of the dash and around to meet the pillar and door frame. Thoughts?

Option A



Option B

 
I say A and B. Do A with a little brace bar. But being that high, looks like you'd lose visibility. That's why I dug that "knee banger" bar, kept the dash low.
 

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