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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
90's throw back....Manche build
- Thread starter mcutler
- Start date
Forbanger
Well-Known Member
The Luke said:
I'm not sure if I get inspired, or aggravated watching this build!!!
jwilson645
Well-Known Member
The damn wiring is almost as beautiful as the metal work. 
:****:
:****:
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Yep...glad I popped back in to check out this thread. Carry on 
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
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Thanks, I hopeForbanger said:
Thank youjpony645 said:The damn wiring is almost as beautiful as the metal work.
Hang around stretch... hoping to get real fun soon...Stretch said:Yep...glad I popped back in to check out this thread. Carry on
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Tidying up a few things, getting closer to cranking.
Putting some fire sleeve over pump line to orbital, and fire sleeve and reflective insulator over fuel line (to prevent vapor lock) around the engine.
You can also see the boots over the plugs and 1400° wire covering entire length of plug wires.
Leak testing the radiator and reservoirs, couple small pinholes to weld over.
Using the Bomber alternator relocation bracket for LS motors; it requires some clearancing of the back of the alternator. This bracket remains from the buggy, but I was using the premier power welder alternator then, the two on the left are stock cs130's (90 amp) thatt I pulled out of my core pile from work, the last on right is a Powermaster 140 amp; now have two spares in the camp box, as well as new spare Psc N-pump (and pulley), spare water pump (already tapped for AN fittings at heater ports, temp sender, and welded fitting for upper port), spare pillow block, spare idler, belt, driveshaft, spare low pinion Currie 9+ dropout third member 5.43 and spooled, 35 spline 300m stub shaft, and of course tires...
No pic, but I've also completed crankcase ventilation- both clean and dirty side- in the 3 sides and down fashion and vented to atmosphere.... therefore much less oil can get to the top of the valve covers or intake, in case of a rollover.
Matt
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Putting some fire sleeve over pump line to orbital, and fire sleeve and reflective insulator over fuel line (to prevent vapor lock) around the engine.
You can also see the boots over the plugs and 1400° wire covering entire length of plug wires.
Leak testing the radiator and reservoirs, couple small pinholes to weld over.
Using the Bomber alternator relocation bracket for LS motors; it requires some clearancing of the back of the alternator. This bracket remains from the buggy, but I was using the premier power welder alternator then, the two on the left are stock cs130's (90 amp) thatt I pulled out of my core pile from work, the last on right is a Powermaster 140 amp; now have two spares in the camp box, as well as new spare Psc N-pump (and pulley), spare water pump (already tapped for AN fittings at heater ports, temp sender, and welded fitting for upper port), spare pillow block, spare idler, belt, driveshaft, spare low pinion Currie 9+ dropout third member 5.43 and spooled, 35 spline 300m stub shaft, and of course tires...
No pic, but I've also completed crankcase ventilation- both clean and dirty side- in the 3 sides and down fashion and vented to atmosphere.... therefore much less oil can get to the top of the valve covers or intake, in case of a rollover.
Matt
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More marks off the list...
Pillow block done, @tomwoodsdriveshafts cycled and clearing. No clearancing necessary on any 1350 yokes [emoji106].
More fire sleeving and heat shielding completed. Most of this shielding was repurposed... robbed off a super duty I just scrapped.
Crankcase ventilation hung and routed under the bridge, hidden by the reservoirs as well. Also notice the tubing for washer fluid...[emoji108]
New Powermaster 140 alternator and belt installed.
Matt
Note: 3/8 rubber fuel line makes an excellent abrasion resistant cover for 3/8 hardline...
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Pillow block done, @tomwoodsdriveshafts cycled and clearing. No clearancing necessary on any 1350 yokes [emoji106].
More fire sleeving and heat shielding completed. Most of this shielding was repurposed... robbed off a super duty I just scrapped.
Crankcase ventilation hung and routed under the bridge, hidden by the reservoirs as well. Also notice the tubing for washer fluid...[emoji108]
New Powermaster 140 alternator and belt installed.
Matt
Note: 3/8 rubber fuel line makes an excellent abrasion resistant cover for 3/8 hardline...
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fabricator1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2012
- Messages
- 493
Looks good. Is there a slip in the driveshafts in front and behind the pillow block bearing? Just the set screw in the bearing keeps the driveshafts from all moving forward?
mcutler said:More marks off the list...
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This build still has me mesmerized, but still trying to get a grasp on how you will keep your foot from melting in your shoe. I know it will be spectacular whatever you do, just asking.
ADMINISTRATOR
Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.
The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles.
That said, the heater will have no need to blow on our feet... it will mainly serve as a defroster.
Windshields and winter wheeling bring the suck without defrost...
Thanks guys!
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Yes, slips on both ends. I've ran this exact setup for years in two previous rigs. Zero issues. Always carried a spare pillow block that I've never used. Never loosened a set screw. Key is good operating angles with sufficient spline engagement and frequent greasing, so that everything cycles correctly.fabricator1 said:
I know there is a place for the double ended yoke bearings and they serve many people well. But I design around these parameters so that I won't need it.
The mega hi 9 certainly helps out with the angles.
Fingers crossed; I'm hoping that the forward headers will be less heat concentrated there than traditional units. I've also got some more heat shielding robbed from said truck above that should aid. It's really hard to explain in type, without anyone personally seeing this space; pictures don't translate well in this tight area. I will have an inch or more of air gap on that outside tube - which will be wrapped, and have a secondary shield that clamps to the tube with its own air gap. Then if necessary, I still have that snazzy NASCAR interior heat pad that will take care of the rest of the heat transfer... I think...CHASMAN9 said:This build still has me mesmerized, but still trying to get a grasp on how you will keep your foot from melting in your shoe. I know it will be spectacular whatever you do, just asking.
ADMINISTRATOR
That said, the heater will have no need to blow on our feet... it will mainly serve as a defroster.
Windshields and winter wheeling bring the suck without defrost...
Thanks guys!
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Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
Factory glass, but using the later Cherokee with the rubber molding attached to the glass, rather than that crap aluminum trim. Standard urethane installation. I was a glass installer 20 years ago, and still have great relations with that employer; I can buy this glass for less than a c-note, installed at my shop.
Thought about speedglass, but with wipers, I was afraid it would eventually scratch beyond visibility. At this price I can buy these, I'll just use glass.
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Yes. It's 2" .120 rectangle tubing I cut down to a channel, welded from the bottom, then plated with .120. Can easily lift the block off the studs for service.twostep said:
Factory glass, but using the later Cherokee with the rubber molding attached to the glass, rather than that crap aluminum trim. Standard urethane installation. I was a glass installer 20 years ago, and still have great relations with that employer; I can buy this glass for less than a c-note, installed at my shop.
Thought about speedglass, but with wipers, I was afraid it would eventually scratch beyond visibility. At this price I can buy these, I'll just use glass.
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Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
Have you ever used Lizardskin heat and sound proofing? I have in a different buggy and it made a big difference in my opinion. If the NASCAR stuff doesn't work completely, slap some of this on and see.
ADMINISTRATOR
mcutler said:
Have you ever used Lizardskin heat and sound proofing? I have in a different buggy and it made a big difference in my opinion. If the NASCAR stuff doesn't work completely, slap some of this on and see.
ADMINISTRATOR
Re: Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build
Thanks for the tip.
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Thanks. It will be an adventure to see what's going to be enough... or not...CHASMAN9 said:Have you ever used Lizardskin heat and sound proofing? I have in a different buggy and it made a big difference in my opinion. If the NASCAR stuff doesn't work completely, slap some of this on and see.
ADMINISTRATOR
Thanks for the tip.
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yeager_0339
Well-Known Member
This has got to be one of the best build threads on here!
Big hurdle on my list, because I think they are such a pain.... seats and harnesses are tabbed out, and ready to final weld!
Let the fun begin... time to panel the interior[emoji28]
Matt
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Let the fun begin... time to panel the interior[emoji28]
Matt
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B
bjeep
Guest
Looking good. The dipstick will be hard to pull once the panels are in...... 
