Tech: At wits end with an overheating motor, long post

customcj7 · May 16, 2017

tallnate said:
Hey Eric, you put the thermostat in with spring end of the thermostat facing into the engine correct?

I'm laughing because I have checked it so many times, you'd think I'd be confident. Yep the correct end is in the block. My water neck has a bleed port on top of it that I can remove and look right down onto the T-stat to verify.

And it has a 160 T-stat in it currently.

TBItoy · May 16, 2017

I'm gonna say water pump is wrong

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kickdeez · May 16, 2017

I know you said in your original post that you checked the fuel/air mixture at the carb, and adjusted it to run rich. Did you check for other vacuum leaks, cracked/split/loose vacuum hoses, unplugged ports etc.? Have you checked the intake mating surfaces and carb base plate mating surface for air leaks resulting in a lean condition? Any time I can remember having an overheating issue, it has been air leakage related (except for that one time I had blown heads - no bueno). Spray all intake and carb mating surfaces, as well as all vacuum hoses and ports with some carb cleaner while the motor is running. If the motor stumbles, then you have a vacuum leak. I know it seems like an elementary exercise, but it's an easy check that you can do without tearing anything apart.

zukimaster · May 16, 2017

TBItoy said:
I'm gonna say water pump is wrong

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I agree with this.

customcj7 · May 16, 2017

TBItoy said:
I'm gonna say water pump is wrong

Alright, stupid moment, but lets say that's accurate, would that just cavitate in the pump or cause reverse flow? What would be symptoms of that?

I've checked all my lines and points, but have not sprayed the engine with carb cleaner to verify no gaps in sealing surfaces. I'll do that as well.

TBItoy · May 16, 2017

The thermodynamics of the engine would probably make it cavitate or just not flow

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ROKTOY829 · May 16, 2017

Re:

Can you see water moving in the radiator, after the t-stat opens up?

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customcj7 · May 16, 2017

Re:

TBItoy said:
The thermodynamics of the engine would probably make it cavitate or just not flow

Well something to keep in mind, I changed it out because of the overheating prior to the waterpump change out. I had the old waterpump that did seemingly work before I rewired the jeep. It started to overheat so I checked the pump. My old pump felt honestly too easy to turn so I thought maybe it had stripped off the vanes. But it was intact upon inspection. Today I picked up another water pump (Oreilly's Murray Brand) to compare the old pump to this one. If I haven't figured it out by this weekend, I'm pulling the Autozone Duralast (the one on it now) to compare. At that point I'll put in the new pump, I picked up a new T-stat (160 degree) and will drill it for air holes to pass through, and then flush the ever living **** out of the motor with a garden hose. I plan on hooking it into one of the heater lines as well to ensure that is flushed and flowing through my Mojave heater as well.

ROKTOY829 said:
Can you see water moving in the radiator, after the t-stat opens up?

I can see when the T-stat opens due to fluid concentration and some movement, but since the new radiator cap is on the opposite side of the water neck inlet I can't see much in the way of movement of than some slight flow.

TBItoy · May 16, 2017

Re:

customcj7 said:
Well something to keep in mind, I changed it out because of the overheating prior to the waterpump, on the waterpump that did seemingly work before I rewired the jeep. My old pump felt honestly too easy to turn so I thought maybe it had stripped off the vanes. But it was intact upon inspection. I picked up another water pump (Oreilly's Murray Brand) to compare the old pump to this one. If I haven't figured it out by this weekend, I'm pulling the Autozone Duralast to compare. At that point I'll put in the new pump, I picked up a new T-stat (160 degree) and will drill it for air holes to pass through, and then flush the ever living **** out of the motor with a garden hose. I plan on hooking it into one of the heater lines as well to ensure that is flushed and flowing through my Mojave heater as well.

I can see when the T-stat opens due to fluid concentration and some movement, but since the new radiator cap is on the opposite side of the water neck inlet I can't see much in the way of movement of than some slight flow.

i missed that it was overheating beforehand

Zjman · May 16, 2017

What ya mean by drilling holes in Tstat to let air through? My Windsor gets warm and I've been watching this thread for answers

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customcj7 · May 16, 2017

Zjman said:
What ya mean by drilling holes in Tstat to let air through? My Windsor gets warm and I've been watching this thread for answers

I've seen it done before, but have never done it personally. Drill two small holes on the flat skirt of the t-stat (what rides on the housing of the waterneck). This should allow any air to easily flow through upon start up versus waiting for the T-stat to open. This is normally done as a bypass to ensure that at least some water is always moving through the T-stat. However, most Windsor water necks have a bypass hose already running through it, but it circulates back into the water pump not out to the radiator. So any air gets pushed back into the block.

A buddy mentioned he did it on his to help burp the air out as well. I'll try anything at this point, I'll run buck naked with a chicken hanging from my pecker if it'll help.

redneckengineered · May 16, 2017

customcj7 said:
I've seen it done before, but have never done it personally. Drill two small holes on the flat skirt of the t-stat (what rides on the housing of the waterneck). This should allow any air to easily flow through upon start up versus waiting for the T-stat to open. This is normally done as a bypass to ensure that at least some water is always moving through the T-stat. However, most Windsor water necks have a bypass hose already running through it, but it circulates back into the water pump not out to the radiator. So any air gets pushed back into the block.

A buddy mentioned he did it on his to help burp the air out as well. I'll try anything at this point, I'll run buck naked with a chicken hanging from my pecker if it'll help.

Some aftermarket stats come like this. It may or may not help but it definitely won't hurt anything.

jeff150 · May 16, 2017

If the original overheating problem began when you rewired it, is it possible you reversed rotation of the fan and now have it pushing hot engine air out into the radiator instead of drawing cool air into the engine bay?

customcj7 · May 16, 2017

jeff150 said:
If the original overheating problem began when you rewired it, is it possible you reversed rotation of the fan and now have it pushing hot engine air out into the radiator instead of drawing cool air into the engine bay?

Nope, they were both correct. My previous fans, and the new one moves a ton of air. It's very easy to know which way they are flowing.

kickdeez · May 17, 2017

customcj7 said:
I'll try anything at this point, I'll run buck naked with a chicken hanging from my pecker if it'll help.

Certainly won't hurt your overheating situation. I say give it a shot. Let us know if it works.

Neal3000 · May 17, 2017

Have you tested for a head gasket leak with something like this?

http://www.toolpan.com/UView-560000--Combustion-Leak-Tester_p_8743.html?gdffi=d5de8d975e554fe98677ff5f83efd439&gdfms=1DCCE0C3BD01411D92F098E8A32FD60A&gclid=CjwKEAjw6e_IBRDvorfv2Ku79jMSJAAuiv9Y6iQekRkenu5EQn5ZdsS8m4vmHS4EcjePLDiFARvIdxoCSSbw_wcB

muddinmetal · May 17, 2017

I have rode with a rig that had a wp that turned the wrong way accidentally installed the night before. Ran cool for a few minutes (maybe even 10-15) but when it started getting hot there was not stopping it

BUG-E J · May 17, 2017

muddinmetal said:
I have rode with a rig that had a wp that turned the wrong way accidentally installed the night before. Ran cool for a few minutes (maybe even 10-15) but when it started getting hot there was not stopping it

Water pump was mentioned pretty early. He keeps shooting that down....

grcthird · May 17, 2017

Zjman said:
What ya mean by drilling holes in Tstat to let air through? My Windsor gets warm and I've been watching this thread for answers

I drill a small hole in every one I install that doesn't already have one in it, and have not any problems from it. On an engine where the tstat stands up (vertical), I'll put the hole at the top.

Side note: The Stant super stat is supposed to fail in the open position, as opposed to a regular one that will stick closed, haven't verified that, just what someone told me years ago.