Wiring diagram review

I would look at using one of these Saftey Fuse Blocks...it is cheap insurance to keep your wiring from melting to the ground...it will just pop the fuse.

This has saved my rig a few times. I have landed on the skid plate hard and had the battery main cable hit the transfer case and ground out, and this fuse will blow first.

Its well worth the small cost compared to watching a rig burn the the ground, and the fuses are around five dollars to replace.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7721/MEGA___AMG_Safety_Fuse_Block

ftoy516 said:

I would look at using one of these Saftey Fuse Blocks...it is cheap insurance to keep your wiring from melting to the ground...it will just pop the fuse.

This has saved my rig a few times. I have landed on the skid plate hard and had the battery main cable hit the transfer case and ground out, and this fuse will blow first.

Its well worth the small cost compared to watching a rig burn the the ground, and the fuses are around five dollars to replace.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7721/MEGA___AMG_Safety_Fuse_Block

Click to expand...

It just goes in line with main hot wire off of battery?

Re: Re: Wiring diagram review

Dirt700 said:

It just goes in line with main hot wire off of battery?

Click to expand...

Yeah you should have a fuse before any load. Easiest is to run one hot wire to one of those fuse/relay blocks, makes wiring cleaner.

I even put a 300A fuse on my winch hot line in case is goes dead short.

Dirt700 said:

It just goes in line with main hot wire off of battery?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Battery/ then this Safety Fuse Block/ then down stream....my master battery disconnect is next from there.

you will want to use with the correct amperage fuse rated for the load range you want it to break the circuit at....i have a 175A fuse in mine that way it lets go at a lower amperage range...and i use the term "lower" loosely.

I look at this Safety Fuse Block like fire insurance,

i have saw a winch switch get hung in the on position and start melting the wires on a rig and it caught on fire...i personally feel like one of this fuse blocks would have avoided that...however the guy does not have one on the rig.

TBItoy said:

Yeah you should have a fuse before any load. Easiest is to run one hot wire to one of those fuse/relay blocks, makes wiring cleaner.

I even put a 300A fuse on my winch hot line in case is goes dead short.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I will definitely put one in.

ftoy516 said:

Yes.

Battery/ then this Safety Fuse Block/ then down stream....my master battery disconnect is next from there.

you will want to use with the correct amperage fuse rated for the load range you want it to break the circuit at....i have a 175A fuse in mine that way it lets go at a lower amperage range...and i use the term "lower" loosely.

I look at this Safety Fuse Block like fire insurance,

i have saw a winch switch get hung in the on position and start melting the wires on a rig and it caught on fire...i personally feel like one of this fuse blocks would have avoided that...however the guy does not have one on the rig.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help.

Your welcome.

I wouldn't want to see anyone's hard work burn.

Dirt700 said:

So... Straight hot wire to the relays? Then toggle switch to the ecm and starter button?

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uhhh no.
You gotta fuse everything that bares a load. I was tying to point out the routing of the wires, sorry I should have been more specific.

https://www.delcity.net/store/ISO-280-Mini-Relay-!-Bussed-Inputs/p_803800.h_803801

I was talkin about using one of these style blocks, common hot wire (that should be fused from the battery terminal for max load,

Then this block distributes power through fuses and relays to all your circuits. (just like a factory setup)




It accomplishes the same thing as a "built" panel using individual components, but is more factory style.










A Jeep Cherokee has a pretty nice fuse box if you arent opposed to re purposing JY stuff. It uses the big fuses and relays, so it's quite a bit bigger than the mini Bussman stuff, but it's pre wired and comes full of fuses and relays from the pull a part :****: (I'm a cheap ass, so yeah..)

Bebop said:

uhhh no.
You gotta fuse everything that bares a load. I was tying to point out the routing of the wires, sorry I should have been more specific.

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If you get bored Enzo, you can re-draw my digram. Just got to keep it on a 3rd grade level for when it comes to wiring.

TBItoy said:

https://www.delcity.net/store/ISO-280-Mini-Relay-!-Bussed-Inputs/p_803800.h_803801

I was talkin about using one of these style blocks, common hot wire (that should be fused from the battery terminal for max load,

Then this block distributes power through fuses and relays to all your circuits. (just like a factory setup)

It accomplishes the same thing as a "built" panel using individual components, but is more factory style.

A Jeep Cherokee has a pretty nice fuse box if you arent opposed to re purposing JY stuff. It uses the big fuses and relays, so it's quite a bit bigger than the mini Bussman stuff, but it's pre wired and comes full of fuses and relays from the pull a part :****: (I'm a cheap ass, so yeah..)

Click to expand...

Thanks Nick I will probably buy something like that. I think I am making this more complicated than it is. If I can put my hands on it makes it alot easier. I'm not much of a visual learner.

Probably more confusing than my last drawing, couldn't find my graph paper

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I would love to help you but I can't read this one. Got a bad case of eyes crossing each other

I have 1 question and 1 suggestion. Does your pcm ground the load or supply voltage?

You need to draw out 2 diagrams if im reading this correct. You need one dedicated harness or diagram for things the pcm doesnt do then one seperate for the pcm. I highly reccomend sending your harness off and having it built stand alone so you only have to give it power ground and accesory. Jims performance will wire in a fuel pump relay and fuses for every load you have the pcm turn on. Then you just wire in a few switches for lights and whatever and one complete seperate circuit for what makes it go.

Bebop said:

I would love to help you but I can't read this one. Got a bad case of eyes crossing each other

Click to expand...

Yea me too lol

BUG-E J said:

I have 1 question and 1 suggestion. Does your pcm ground the load or supply voltage?

You need to draw out 2 diagrams if im reading this correct. You need one dedicated harness or diagram for things the pcm doesnt do then one seperate for the pcm. I highly reccomend sending your harness off and having it built stand alone so you only have to give it power ground and accesory. Jims performance will wire in a fuel pump relay and fuses for every load you have the pcm turn on. Then you just wire in a few switches for lights and whatever and one complete seperate circuit for what makes it go.

Click to expand...

There is local guy going to do my harness. What I want is when I turn my ignition switch on it fires ecm, fuel, fans, and trans fan.

Without turning on ignition I want to be able to power lights and radio

Dirt700 said:

There is local guy going to do my harness. What I want is when I turn my ignition switch on it fires ecm, fuel, fans, and trans fan.

Without turning on ignition I want to be able to power lights and radio

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You can get a 3 position main switch. Off, accessory, ignition. Run the non essentials off first position and pcm/fans off of 3rd. Draw a diagram for that. Then draw one showing your loads. There is alot going on in that pic.

Jon is right. 3 pos switch would work or just wire 1 switch for ign and one for accessories.

Bebop said:

Jon is right. 3 pos switch would work or just wire 1 switch for ign and one for accessories.

Click to expand...

That diagram shows the pcm turning everything on. If thats what you want and your pcm is capable thats awesome. If thats not what your after you are over thinking this. Had a guy tell me once wiring is like sex. You have a goal and there are a thousand different ways to get to the goal but getting their is up to you. Some people like it simple and some people want it flashy and complecated with bells and flashing lights.

BUG-E J said:

That diagram shows the pcm turning everything on. If thats what you want and your pcm is capable thats awesome. If thats not what your after you are over thinking this. Had a guy tell me once wiring is like sex. You have a goal and there are a thousand different ways to get to the goal but getting their is up to you. Some people like it simple and some people want it flashy and complecated with bells and flashing lights.

Click to expand...

Once the ecm has power, and the harness has wires for fuel and fans is when they send power, correct?

Bebop said:

Jon is right. 3 pos switch would work or just wire 1 switch for ign and one for accessories.

Click to expand...

Ok, does every single thing need a relay? I thought I remember reading on one of the threads, that is amp draw is less than switch can handle you don't need one

You have a stock GM LS ECM I'm assuming.
It will ground the commands. You still need relays for fuel pump, fan 1 and 2. Use the same command for the trans fan if that's what you like.

Basically, send fused power to a distributing block.

From there you send fused power to each relay and then to each electrical device. That's your power circuit.
Then you send one general fused power to a switch board that will trigger the relays. That's your command circuit for the accessories.
With a stock GM LS ECM, command (ground IIRC) for your fuel, fan1 and 2 relays will come from the ECM. ECM needs to be directly connected to hot all times via power circuit and ign power via the command circuit.

Hope this helps, otherwise you can call me this evening after 8, I'll try to make it clearer.

To make it simpler on you, run it like you don't have an ECM doing **** and then add it in the mix.