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Wiring diagram review

Dirt700 said:
I haven't did this much drawing since kindergarten
9b431abfaa763f5242e2a2bc70dfc59f.jpg


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You're almost there !
Now you need to send command power to those relays and you're set.

Also, you could wire the starter button after the ign switch to make sure you can't hit the starter without having the ign on.
 
Re: Re: Wiring diagram review

Bebop said:
You're almost there !
Now you need to send command power to those relays and you're set.

Also, you could wire the starter button after the ign switch to make sure you can't hit the starter without having the ign on.
I would keep the starter & ign seperate. After a roll it's nice to bump the starter without ign or fuel.
 
Just for fun, here is how I'll wire mine. It's bare bones, KISS, as simple as it gets while still being safe (I think):

20180213085621970.jpg
 
hokie_yj said:
I'm glad this thread got bumped back up. It's getting close to time to start wiring my buggy. I've been meaning to sketch out a diagram for a while. It's been a slow night at work so here's my 3:00 AM buggy wiring diagram.



Batteries are dual Odyssey PC925s. The battery selector/disconnect is a Blue Sea 600a switch.
All battery cable will be 2/0 AWG welding cable except the charge wire will be 4 AWG. The fuel pump, radiator fan, ignition, etc. are fed by relays in the engine harness, but I'm going without relays on the rest of the loads for simplicity. I know a that's a pretty debated subject, but I'm confident it will be fine. Everything will be done with high quality components. The highest load will be the trans cooler fan at about 15a. The two light bars will be about 10a each, and the dome light probably not much more than 1a. The switch panel is a 12voltguy panel with ignition and push button start, winch controls, and 6 aux. switches.

I know it's been recommended in this thread to have the alternator charge wire on the battery side of the disconnect, and I understand why. The way I have it the alternator will still feed everything and the battery switch will really only be a disconnect, not an emergency shutdown. But the main ignition switch on my panel will drop out the relays in the engine harness for the fuel pump and the ignition system. It would be nice to have the battery switch for another emergency shutdown, but having the dual batteries made that seem to difficult to be worth it for me. I didn't want to fool with battery isolators and stuff like that. Plus the ignition switch and battery switch will be right beside each other on the console, so I guess there's really not a big advantage to having the battery switch be another shutdown.

Really my only other concern with this setup is that the engine harness gets it's constant 12V from the alternator stud through a fusible link. That's all well and good, except that when I turn off the battery switch I will lose the 12V constant for the ECU memory. I don't plan on using the battery disconnect much other than when parking the rig for extended periods. But something could always happen necessitating killing the batteries. My harness is an aftermarket standalone harness from Tilden Motorsports. I've peeled the loom back a few inches from the fuse/relay box and found where all the 12V constants are spliced onto the end of the wire going to the alternator stud. I've identified the ECU memory wire. I can cut it loose from the wire going to the alternator and run it directly to one of the batteries if necessary. I play an electrician at work, and I'm relatively confident in my ability to not butcher it up, but I just kinda cringe at the idea of hacking into a $700 harness unless it's absolutely necessary. So how big of a deal is it to have the ECU power killed by the battery disconnect that's going to remain on most of the time under normal circumstances. I know the ECU will have to relearn for a bit after having the memory power restored, but how big of a deal is that really? I know it may run a little off at first, but it should be a pretty short period of time shouldn't it? I've searched and searched trying to satisfy myself on this question, but I've never found a clear answer.

If you spot an issue, something I'm overlooking, or think I'm doing it just plain wrong speak up. I'm always open to help and constructive criticism.

Like a few others said, I would want to be able to kill all the big power items with a kill switch (winch mainly) just in case... But what you have will certainly work. I like to have the kill on the dash reachable from the outside just as a safety thing but its not totally necessary either.

As for the ECM having to relearn, this is how mine is. There is no issue with it, I kill mine 100% every time its parked overnight while trail riding and any time its in the shop. It just takes a minute to warm up and its good to go. I prefer that over having a battery drain constantly on the battery. I also have a weird thing about just wanting to kill power all the way and have nothing hot running anywhere...hence why I have 2 different kill switches that do different things; but thats just me being a werido

Looks good though!
 
Bebop said:
You're almost there !
Now you need to send command power to those relays and you're set.

Also, you could wire the starter button after the ign switch to make sure you can't hit the starter without having the ign on.
I will have a hot wire from ignition to command side of all relays, I made the lines very light on the drawing. If I understood you and Jon correctly, the wires in the harness are a ground and not a hot?
 
zukimaster said:
I believe I could wire a whole buggy up, for all the time it took you guys to draw these fancy blueprints up. :rolf:
My drawings are on a kindergarten level, didn't take long. I am going to do a better, once I get graph paper.
 
Dirt700 said:
I will have a hot wire from ignition to command side of all relays, I made the lines very light on the drawing. If I understood you and Jon correctly, the wires in the harness are a ground and not a hot?

Yesssss !!! The wires from the ECM to the relays that is.

You got it all figured out man !
 
Bebop said:
Yesssss !!! The wires from the ECM to the relays that is.

You got it all figured out man !
On an ls yes. Be careful with that because some pcms send hot so thats not a rule of thumb. But with an ls yes
 
Re: Re: Wiring diagram review

paradisepwoffrd said:
I would keep the starter & ign seperate. After a roll it's nice to bump the starter without ign or fuel.
Hmm that's a good though. My last buggy was that way.
 
Dirt700 said:
****, thanks I put it in, just didn't take another picture
Go ahead & snap another pic of it finished up so I can steal your wiring!

This thread is helping me out. I'm almost ready to start wiring mine. Just gotta finish the dash layout.
 
ForMud said:
The only suggestion would be put a disconnect switch between the main bus bar and the winch. I'm just paranoid about having no way to shut off the winch if there a problem with the solenoids fusing.

That's not a bad idea. I could probably fit another switch without too much trouble.

slravenel said:
Like a few others said, I would want to be able to kill all the big power items with a kill switch (winch mainly) just in case... But what you have will certainly work. I like to have the kill on the dash reachable from the outside just as a safety thing but its not totally necessary either.

As for the ECM having to relearn, this is how mine is. There is no issue with it, I kill mine 100% every time its parked overnight while trail riding and any time its in the shop. It just takes a minute to warm up and its good to go. I prefer that over having a battery drain constantly on the battery. I also have a weird thing about just wanting to kill power all the way and have nothing hot running anywhere...hence why I have 2 different kill switches that do different things; but thats just me being a werido

Looks good though!

I may look in to adding a 2nd switch for the winch.

Here's my console layout. The main switch is pretty easily reachable from outside on both sides of the buggy.





That's exactly what I was hoping to hear on the on the ECM wiring. I'll just leave it the way it is and not hack into the harness. Thanks!
 
Re: Re: Wiring diagram review

HotwheelsYJ said:
Go ahead & snap another pic of it finished up so I can steal your wiring!

This thread is helping me out. I'm almost ready to start wiring mine. Just gotta finish the dash layout.
I have it on a fuse block here, I was going to have it come on when I flip the toggle. But I think I want it on until I kill the battery disconnect. If I'm riding for the weekend I don't mind power going to it, but while it's not being drove for a while I can kill it.
4ecf590d808f34e1c6673630bb48168c.jpg


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