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Author Topic: Wiring diagram review  (Read 5327 times)
Dirt700
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« Reply #75 on: February 13, 2018, 10:39:33 AM »

I would keep the starter & ign seperate.  After a roll it's nice to bump the starter without ign or fuel.
Hmm that's a good though. My last buggy was that way.
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
HotwheelsYJ
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« Reply #76 on: February 13, 2018, 12:24:51 PM »

Shit, thanks I put it in, just didn't take another picture
Go ahead & snap another pic of it finished up so I can steal your wiring!

This thread is helping me out. I'm almost ready to start wiring mine. Just gotta finish the dash layout.
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hokie_yj
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« Reply #77 on: February 13, 2018, 01:46:11 PM »

The only suggestion would be put a disconnect switch between the main bus bar and the winch. I'm just paranoid about having no way to shut off the winch if there a problem with the solenoids fusing.    

That’s not a bad idea. I could probably fit another switch without too much trouble.

Like a few others said, I would want to be able to kill all the big power items with a kill switch (winch mainly) just in case... But what you have will certainly work. I like to have the kill on the dash reachable from the outside just as a safety thing but its not totally necessary either.

As for the ECM having to relearn, this is how mine is. There is no issue with it, I kill mine 100% every time its parked overnight while trail riding and any time its in the shop. It just takes a minute to warm up and its good to go. I prefer that over having a battery drain constantly on the battery. I also have a weird thing about just wanting to kill power all the way and have nothing hot running anywhere...hence why I have 2 different kill switches that do different things; but thats just me being a werido

Looks good though!

I may look in to adding a 2nd switch for the winch.

Here’s my console layout. The main switch is pretty easily reachable from outside on both sides of the buggy.

 



That’s exactly what I was hoping to hear on the on the ECM wiring. I’ll just leave it the way it is and not hack into the harness. Thanks!
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Ben Bellamy - Surgoinsville, TN
Dirt700
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« Reply #78 on: February 13, 2018, 02:54:36 PM »

Go ahead & snap another pic of it finished up so I can steal your wiring!

This thread is helping me out. I'm almost ready to start wiring mine. Just gotta finish the dash layout.
I have it on a fuse block here, I was going to have it come on when I flip the toggle. But I think I want it on until I kill the battery disconnect. If I'm riding for the weekend I don't mind power going to it, but while it's not being drove for a while I can kill it.

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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
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« Reply #79 on: February 13, 2018, 04:28:51 PM »

Do you work for Nucor?
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Tin Top Sammy under construction, Chad, Ft. Payne AL
Dirt700
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« Reply #80 on: February 13, 2018, 04:33:52 PM »

Do you work for Nucor?
Yes sir. It's the mill in Arkansas. When my wife gets done a few years, going to try and transfer to the Decatur mill. That way I will be closer to the parks and live closer to the people I usually ride and hang out with. There are few guys by me that have buggies, but I hardly ever go with them.
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
Dirt700
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« Reply #81 on: February 14, 2018, 01:08:59 PM »

What is ideal wire size for say:
Fans
Lights
Fuel pump
Starter solenoid
Ignition switch
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
ftoy516
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« Reply #82 on: February 14, 2018, 04:18:44 PM »

What is ideal wire size for say:
Fans
Lights
Fuel pump
Starter solenoid
Ignition switch

This may Help.  You will need to know the Amp draw of  some of the items to make those decisions.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-Dynamic%2520Search%2520ADs-_-Null&adpos=1t2&creative=99997524844&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&mrkgadid=2353620585&mrkgcl=481&rkg_id=h-8f4d621c190782574f7f3720af79b028_t-1518650191&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2Y_UBRCGARIsALglqQ1d23u9WCtHj8P0vnKyEad67zIi039yJCMvwo_jj4XG4y2gHC24KOAaAkdYEALw_wcB

Also some descent info.

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs
« Last Edit: February 14, 2018, 04:39:24 PM by ftoy516 » Logged

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« Reply #83 on: February 14, 2018, 05:02:09 PM »

Something like this will help keep it nice and clean. You can also get this fuse block with negative connections.




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Dirt700
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« Reply #84 on: February 14, 2018, 06:50:54 PM »

Something like this will help keep it nice and clean. You can also get this fuse block with negative connections.




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I have the same one on my Amazon wish list.

Thanks for the wiring help, im trying to find amp draw on my fans.
I think lights and radio I will do 14awg,  trans fan says only 4.8 amp draw I figured it would be more than that
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
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« Reply #85 on: February 14, 2018, 07:32:26 PM »

No problem.

I used the 12 slot fuse block with Ground terminals, that way i could easily  ground items to the block without running them allover the place.  On this Fuse Block it gets a Ground directly to the Chassis.
Blue Sea Systems #5026

Also ,
If i had any other advice it would be to make it as easy to work on as you can that way it is easier to fix on the trail....the last thing you want to have to do is tear the whole rig apart just to get to the fuse panel, just to check a fuse, or a relay. 

Taking your time to do a good clean wiring job WILL pay off in the long run when you have to start working on it in the future.

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Dirt700
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« Reply #86 on: February 14, 2018, 07:44:47 PM »

No problem.

I used the 12 slot fuse block with Ground terminals, that way i could easily  ground items to the block without running them allover the place.  On this Fuse Block it gets a Ground directly to the Chassis.
Blue Sea Systems #5026

Also ,
If i had any other advice it would be to make it as easy to work on as you can that way it is easier to fix on the trail....the last thing you want to have to do is tear the whole rig apart just to get to the fuse panel, just to check a fuse, or a relay. 

Taking your time to do a good clean wiring job WILL pay off in the long run when you have to start working on it in the future.


I'm trying to wire this one the correct way. The buggy I just sold was a mess when I got it.

Going to try and ground all the electronics at the mounting point, to save on the wires in running. I plan on putting fuse block and relays on a piece of and plastic and mounting it on the firewall
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
Angryfab buggy "ISSUES"
ftoy516
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« Reply #87 on: February 14, 2018, 07:55:01 PM »

I would recommend checking out DelCity for all of your wiring needs.  This is a great source for all things 12V and orders over $99 ship free....wiring a buggy that will add up in the blink of an eye.

Delcity will have almost everything you will need, from wire, push buttons, relays, carling rockers, kill switchs,  rockers, battery cable, terminals ect.....basically anything you can dream of 12v

delcity.net
« Last Edit: February 14, 2018, 07:56:52 PM by ftoy516 » Logged

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Bebop
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« Reply #88 on: February 15, 2018, 06:45:50 AM »

trans fan says only 4.8 amp draw I figured it would be more than that

Remember this is continuous amp draw. in order to start an electrical motor, you need way more than the continuous number.
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Dirt700
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« Reply #89 on: February 15, 2018, 07:56:01 AM »

Remember this is continuous amp draw. in order to start an electrical motor, you need way more than the continuous number.
I think I am going to use 8 awg for all 3 fans and fuel pump just to be safe
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Justin Dulaney   Jonesboro,
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« Reply #90 on: February 19, 2018, 11:03:05 AM »

Those that are using 200-300 amp fuses right after the battery, do you have any problems with them blowing when winching?

I'd like to add a fuse right after the battery but Warn specs show ~450 amp draw at max load - I didn't think a 300 amp fuse would be enough.
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ftoy516
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« Reply #91 on: February 19, 2018, 08:25:50 PM »

I am running a 175A fuse right after the battery,  HOWEVER, my winch is wired directly to the battery.  Which is what Warn said should be done.

At first I wanted to run my battery Positive from a jumper terminal and just ground the winch to the chassis right beside the winch, in efforts to not have so much large wire all over the whole place. 
When i called and talked to Warn they informed me that  would NOT be a good idea to ground the winch to the Chassis near the battery because if something goes wrong it could burn up all the ground connections to the wiring harness.

Also the winch needed to have Positive power DIRECTLY from the battery.   When the winch is grounded to the chassis all of the current is trying to find its way back to the battery, and under a heavy current load during hard usage it could be high enough to be an issue with the other electrical grounds in the vehicle.    I was not willing to risk that.

I have not had any issues with my fuse being beside the battery.
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« Reply #92 on: February 20, 2018, 05:05:01 PM »

I am running a 175A fuse right after the battery,  HOWEVER, my winch is wired directly to the battery.  Which is what Warn said should be done.

At first I wanted to run my battery Positive from a jumper terminal and just ground the winch to the chassis right beside the winch, in efforts to not have so much large wire all over the whole place. 
When i called and talked to Warn they informed me that  would NOT be a good idea to ground the winch to the Chassis near the battery because if something goes wrong it could burn up all the ground connections to the wiring harness.

Also the winch needed to have Positive power DIRECTLY from the battery.   When the winch is grounded to the chassis all of the current is trying to find its way back to the battery, and under a heavy current load during hard usage it could be high enough to be an issue with the other electrical grounds in the vehicle.    I was not willing to risk that.

I have not had any issues with my fuse being beside the battery.

That's similar to how I have mine wired now but it makes me a little nervous having a long power wire to the winch without a fuse.

In most of the wiring diagrams in this post, the winch is shown after the fuse, I'm just wondering if people are blowing fuses with a winch wired to a 200-300 amp fuse?
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TBItoy
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« Reply #93 on: February 20, 2018, 05:37:23 PM »

That's similar to how I have mine wired now but it makes me a little nervous having a long power wire to the winch without a fuse.

In most of the wiring diagrams in this post, the winch is shown after the fuse, I'm just wondering if people are blowing fuses with a winch wired to a 200-300 amp fuse?

I never did. you can get up to 500A Mega fuses.




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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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« Reply #94 on: February 20, 2018, 06:35:23 PM »

That max current will be with the winch at max load and damn near stalled out. I'm running a M8000 and it's 435A at 8000# and 4.8 ft/min line speed.

I'll be putting this fuse holder directly after my battery switch, right now the plan is to run a 500A ANL fuse, but I may downsize to about a 400 or so.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5503/ANL_Fuse_Block_with_Insulating_Cover_-_35_to_750A

Then from there it will go to this bus bar that rated at 1000A continuous. And everything, including the winch will feed from there.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/1990/PowerBar_1000_-_8_3_8in_Terminal_Studs

I would think 200-300 amps would be cutting it close. Likely it will never blow, but if you're pulling hard with your winch you'll be pushing that. If it were me I would up it to 350-450, assuming your wiring is capable of handling that kind of current.
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Ben Bellamy - Surgoinsville, TN
ftoy516
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« Reply #95 on: February 20, 2018, 07:07:08 PM »

That's similar to how I have mine wired now but it makes me a little nervous having a long power wire to the winch without a fuse.

In most of the wiring diagrams in this post, the winch is shown after the fuse, I'm just wondering if people are blowing fuses with a winch wired to a 200-300 amp fuse?


I feed BOTH the Positive and Ground winch cables through vinyl tubing to help prevent chafing...that way it had some extra protection.

My Battery is located behind the passenger seat, so the cables are LONG...from the front of the chassis to where its located its about 8 ft or so.  I wish it was shorter, but I located behind the passenger seat for weight reasons.

You can get that stuff at Lowes or Homedepot.  It is a little bit hard to get threaded through the vinyl tubing, but i just used a soapy water mixture and pushed it through...and Heat shrink the terminal ends after i had it totally feed into the vinyl tube.

If you try this it will take some patience.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2018, 07:11:43 PM by ftoy516 » Logged

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