Air Dryer for Plasma Cutter Advice???

Any of you fellers have a good cost efficient way to dry compressed air? Ive searched around and everyones gotta a different opinion on what to do.

Im not running a cnc table just a 60A cutmaster light/medium use
2 horse 20 gallon compressor
im going thru consumables like crazy and it cant be good for my impact either

trying to decide between some sort of home-made condenser, a toilet paper style filter, or a combo unit with desiccant dryer.

thanks in advance

Eric

Re:

We made a condenser tank with an auto purge where the air comes in the shop, then run toilet paper filters throughout the building. They work well

I have been using a air water seperator in front of a toilet paper style filter for a few yrs now with good results. I change the filter once a month and drain the moisture out of the compressor every couple of days.

One of the biggest things I've found is to get the separators and filters further away from the tank...gotta let the air cool down before it really has the ability to separate back out.

My neighbor installed his compressor up against a wall then ran the line to some hard air line...like the kits you can buy but basically set up a set of switch backs climbing the wall behind the compressor. This gives the air time to cool down and then as the water condenses out of the air it can drain back down the piping to a purge located at the bottom.

Garage journal forum has a lot of good info. I have used some of the methods on there with good results. I Also have a dedicated motorcraft and a miller filter just for the plasma. They are just for any little that makes it there and i almost never have to change them. I live in Florida humidity so good moisture control is a must.

clemsonjeep said:

My neighbor installed his compressor up against a wall then ran the line to some hard air line...like the kits you can buy but basically set up a set of switch backs climbing the wall behind the compressor. This gives the air time to cool down and then as the water condenses out of the air it can drain back down the piping to a purge located at the bottom.

Click to expand...

I did the same thing. Works pretty good.

Used for paint gun, Watts Air Dryer RTR

I just ran two harbor freight filters back to back. Have been running this on my Miller plasma cutter for 10 years now and never had any water issues with it. You can definitely tell that the first filter has way more water in it than the second one.

just picked up a new compressor. just the 30 gallon/110V Kobalt from Lowe's since I did not want to run 220V to my garage and all I use it for primarily is running an 1/2" drive impact, air ratchet and airing up tires and occasional die grinder. I have a 20amp plug, so it should be fine. down here in humid SE Houston it seems like some days my old compressor spit out more water than compressed air. :****:

I am thinking about running a auxiliary 20 gallon tank for more air reserve. after the auxiliary tank, a 1/2" PVC pipe system running up and down my garage wall incorporating 5 U's with a PVC ball valve at the bottom of each one. This will give me cooling at both tanks, and about 80+ ft PVC pipe for cooling to condense the water out. My major concern is Will the PVC allow enough cooling to actually allow the water to condense out of the air? Or is it worth the extra coin/tim to go with a threaded steel pipe system for better heat transfer?

Put a motorguard on it.

croes said:

Put a motorguard on it.

Click to expand...

X2

Uses a standard roll of toilet paper as a filter

easy

croes said:

Put a motorguard on it.

Click to expand...

part number?

ToledoDan said:

part number?

Click to expand...

Motor Guard M-26 if you use 1/4" NPT fittings

Get a timed or no loss drain for your tank to continuously bleed water out. Also, if your hard lined, you can plumb it to help get water out. Run hard line vertical out of the compressor and then "U" back down towards the floor (as the air cools in the line moisture condenses into liquid and runs back down into the tank to be removed by the drain). Then put a "T" and your QD fitting for the hose at least 12" from the end of the down pipe with a ball valve at the end of the 12" piece. This way moisture that makes it up and over settles down in the 12" piece and can be released by the ball valve rather than being forced into your machine.

I run one of these:

https://www.grainger.com/product/HANKISON-200-CFM-Compressed-Air-Dryer-1ZPU2

and a desiccant filter at the plasma.

Putting an inline desiccant near the unit is probably going to be the most cost effective way to get dry air. Don't forget to look at the plumbing of the system as a whole. Make sure you are pulling air from the top of the header or tank. Well placed auto drains and drip legs will definitely help.