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Author Topic: Thermostat or Water Restrictor/Washer...4.3L/5.3L  (Read 676 times)
bbtank45
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« on: May 15, 2018, 07:41:38 PM »

Trying to fix some issues I've dealt with on my buggy for a while.

Are any of you running a flow restrictor in place of a thermostat?

I run a dual spal fan Griffin radiator (31x19?) setup, fans run all the time and the coolant temps stay around 190-200....and get there pretty quickly.

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Ben B.- Cincinnati, OH
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2018, 08:11:32 PM »

I have a rear mount and I drilled two small holes in my thermostat.
It seems to be much easier to get air out of system now.
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Hillary 2016
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2018, 08:44:58 PM »

Flow restrictor is a crock of shit. It’s a bandaid to a bigger problem
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James Moore
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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2018, 03:17:04 AM »

There’s nothing wrong with it running 190-200  Dunno
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TBItoy
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2018, 04:06:27 AM »

Sounds like your cooling system is working perfectly fine?
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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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bbtank45
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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2018, 05:14:43 AM »

I would agree it functions the way it should. On long obstacles it occasionally gets to 205....do your fans run all the time? Once the engine gets to full operating temp (usually 15 minutes), the fans stay on till i shut it off.
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Ben B.- Cincinnati, OH
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2018, 05:21:37 AM »

Flow restrictors are not a bad thing if you are running a rear mounted radiator.  The water has a long way to go, usually 16 linear feet of hosing to and from the radiator and the flow can be adjusted using different size restrictors.  I've used them before and they have worked fine for me.  Just my .02




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bbtank45
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2018, 05:34:55 AM »

I am running a rear mounted radiator, 50/50 mix....OEM water pump.

-Are they generally used in race type applications or trail rigs (long run times)?

-Run it instead of a thermostat?



Ive always expected with my little motor, generally large radiator.....and a ton of extra fluid that it should run cooler than factory. I expected (hoped) the engine and cooling system would operate around 180-190 and only hit 200 during beatdowns. Thanks for the help.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2018, 05:46:30 AM by bbtank45 » Logged

Ben B.- Cincinnati, OH
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2018, 06:02:38 AM »

I believe minds much smarter than me on here have said that the LS motors actually like running a little warmer?

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Zach Dobbs - Galloway Ohio
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2018, 06:31:04 AM »

I would agree it functions the way it should. On long obstacles it occasionally gets to 205....do your fans run all the time? Once the engine gets to full operating temp (usually 15 minutes), the fans stay on till i shut it off.

205 still isnt bad? It sounds to me like your system is working fine, these motors run around 210 usually and can spike up even higher...but come back down pretty quick.

If you want it to run a little cooler, just put a lower thermostat in it and rock out. I wouldn't put a flow restrictor in there for anything other than a quick bandaid fix like mentioned before...but thats just my $0.02, I know plenty of guys do run them
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2018, 06:44:41 AM »

Redneckengineered had a good thread on LS thermostats you could search for. I can't find it with tapatalk at the moment.

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Zach Dobbs - Galloway Ohio
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« Reply #11 on: May 16, 2018, 07:25:21 AM »

I run a restrictor (flat washer) no thermostat in mine as well been this way for 6 years.  Runs 205 easy on long hard pulls and my fans are completely manual.   Usually in my experience it is much harder to get air out of these motors but once you do, they control fine with a thermostat or not.  I am with everyone else those temps sound good to me.
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« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2018, 07:48:53 AM »

Redneckengineered had a good thread on LS thermostats you could search for. I can't find it with tapatalk at the moment.

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hes running a 160* in his and it is pretty noticeably cooler running than the others. Some engine tuners will tell you not to, but I think that starts to fall into Engineer vs Real Life discussion pretty quickly.
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« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2018, 07:54:29 AM »

Not apples to apples I know, but

My 05 1500 Chevy 5.3 has factory electric fans, when I crank it the fans don’t come on, it heats up to 210, then the fans runs continuous. They are loud as hell when you are parked idling. It’s the first truck I’ve had with factory electric fans and it’s kinda irritating to be honest. But the front of the engine is very accessible if any work ever needed to be done on the front of the motor
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Nick Cooper - Dodson Branch, TN

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« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2018, 12:48:05 PM »



Have yall tried running a heater bypass hose instead of just blocking the heater ports off. If youre running a thermostat you really dont need to have the heater ports completely blocked because that causes there to be zero coolant flow through the engine block which makes it develop steam pockets in the heads. With no coolant flow, the water around the combustion chambers gets overheated while the coolant around the thermostat is still well below operating temperature.


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Eddyj
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« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2018, 01:04:30 PM »

Then we’re would I put my $20 mechanical temp gauge? Dunno

https://m.facebook.com/notes/agearhead4life/dont-plug-the-heater-ports-on-a-lsx-water-pump-heres-why/704643956255902/
« Last Edit: May 16, 2018, 01:07:34 PM by Eddyj » Logged

Hillary 2016
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« Reply #16 on: May 16, 2018, 01:52:45 PM »

x2 on the heater hose. Bypass that...dont block it
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cushmaneaglerider
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« Reply #17 on: May 16, 2018, 04:30:07 PM »

I have a thermostat in one of my buggies, thermostat with the guts cut out in the other. Both run the same temperature on the trail and heat up in about the same time. Run what you want, I can't tell any difference.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2018, 05:02:54 AM by cushmaneaglerider » Logged

Brad Evans - Plantersville Ms
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« Reply #18 on: May 16, 2018, 06:50:21 PM »

Can someone explain the heat bypass bc I have blocked all mine and never had a issue with over heating but I do keep the steam port to the top of radiator
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Clint Carter - Hatton, Alabama
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« Reply #19 on: May 16, 2018, 07:43:56 PM »

Mines blocked. When I took the thermostat out it didn’t look like it made a difference.
But I did drill two holes in the stat
« Last Edit: May 16, 2018, 07:44:54 PM by Eddyj » Logged

Hillary 2016
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« Reply #20 on: May 17, 2018, 09:59:48 AM »

Trying to fix some issues I've dealt with on my buggy for a while.

Are any of you running a flow restrictor in place of a thermostat?

I run a dual spal fan Griffin radiator (31x19?) setup, fans run all the time and the coolant temps stay around 190-200....and get there pretty quickly.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sounds like your cooling system is operating perfectly.  That's the sweet spot for an LS.

I'm not a fan of flow restrictors or no thermostat setups.  Plenty of people do it and claim it works, I won't refute that.  Just saying I'm not a fan.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2018, 10:00:10 AM by redneckengineered » Logged

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redneckengineered
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« Reply #21 on: May 17, 2018, 10:00:22 AM »

Redneckengineered had a good thread on LS thermostats you could search for. I can't find it with tapatalk at the moment.

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http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=43397.0
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mcutler
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« Reply #22 on: May 17, 2018, 11:48:44 AM »

Sounds like your cooling system is operating perfectly.  That's the sweet spot for an LS.

I'm not a fan of flow restrictors or no thermostat setups.  Plenty of people do it and claim it works, I won't refute that.  Just saying I'm not a fan.
I'm with you. And ditto the bypass.

The factory ecm wants the engine to operate at optimum efficiency for combustion....That's why they regulate around 205-210. And also why I built my cooling system to mimic the factory with 190 tstat, steam lines, heater(or bypass), and sealed radiator with the cap in an expansion tank (tied in through heater loop and steam lines) with a separate overflow.  Stays 210 all day long.

For added insurance,  I run a 50/50 mix,  but I use a 20 psi cap (all -AN fittings in my system) to help raise the boiling point a bit for the long hard obstacles.



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d_daffron
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« Reply #23 on: May 17, 2018, 01:09:33 PM »

Can someone explain the heat bypass bc I have blocked all mine and never had a issue with over heating but I do keep the steam port to the top of radiator

The reason for the heater bypass is you never want the water in a running engine to stand still, that causes hot spots and localized boiling of the coolant which causes steam pockets to form. Thats the reason you hear some guys complain about never being able to bleed all the air out of their cooling system, its not that theyre not getting all the air out, its because of the steam is forming new air. I dont recall ever seeing a stock vehicle that didnt have some means of circulating water through the block while the thermostat is closed to prevent this. As long as you have some way for the coolant to keep flowing through the block you will never have this problem which is the reason guys with gutted thermostats or water restrictors dont have problems
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redneckengineered
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« Reply #24 on: May 18, 2018, 06:31:46 AM »

I block off my thermostat completely.  100% sealed.  That way I can run the hills with the bouncers and overheat in 10 seconds and feel like I belong to the cool kids club.
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