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Propane injection questions

yeager_0339

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
308
Location
florece al
So I guess its safe to say I am ignorant to the LP thing. all I have ever run is LS. So my rig runs good at low RPMS but occainsonlly I use it on the street also. When I drive about 10 miles its begins to climb in temperature and top out around 230 deg. in my opinion that's too hot! It is acting like one that is running too lean. The plugs tell me this also being white when I pulled them. At night when I drive it it stays in the 180-190 range which is fine. I guess my question is how can richen one up? below is my specs.

Engine: mildly built sbc 350
Trans: th400
axle: dana 60 4:88
r axle: 14 bolt 4:88
transfer: atlas 4.3:1
Tires: 43"sx
propane: 40lb. tank impco model e is what shows on the mixer

Any help would be great!
 
I guess you've already tried turning up the fuel on the mixer?

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Lol nope I'm dumb when it comes to propane. Is it as simple as turning a screw? I haven't seen an adjustment.


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yeager_0339 said:
Lol nope I'm dumb when it comes to propane. Is it as simple as turning a screw? I haven't seen an adjustment.


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Should be a simple screw somwhere on the mixer, toward the bottom of it. Just controls fuel/air mixture. A propane mixer is an extremely simple mechanism. Now this is NOT on the vaporizer, be sure you know the difference between the two. The mixer should be mounted on the intake. The vaporizer is the thing with hot water lines ran through it to heat up and vaporize the propane before it is sucked into the mixer via vacuum (unless it is a fancy system with a pump or something?).
 
Yea just listen to the engine while you adjust the fuel when it's running, when it sounds the best take it for a drive.

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I think you can get on the gotpropane website and he has a simple instruction manual on how to tune. Like others said there's basically one screw you turn on the mixer.


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Re: Re: Propane injection questions

617_Racing said:
I think you can get on the gotpropane website and he has a simple instruction manual on how to tune. Like others said there's basically one screw you turn on the mixer.


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On most there should be 2 screws. One is an idle mixture, other off-idle. Sometimes the idle screw is blocked/plugged.

If you have a 425, it's 90* from the throttle shaft and a half turn knob. It's designed to fit a wrench on.

6973907472
 
I do not remember seeing if your mixer was new or not. The reason I ask is whether it has been altered or not. On Impco mixers the power mixture is preset when assembled and should not need to be adjusted. You cannot set a propane engine by ear, it is too easy to get it way too rich. You can set the idle by ear and get close though. Checking plugs will not tell you whether it is running rich or lean unless the electrode is melted off since propane burns completely clean and leaves no residue on the plugs. Realistically you cannot treat this engine like it is gasoline powered, the two fuels are completely different and the rules are not the same. I played with timing in the shop on an engine one time and kept adjusting it until it had the absolute smoothest idle and then checked it with the timing light. It had 50 degrees timing at idle. As soon as the throttle was cracked it would start detonating and shaking though.

The problem might well not be the fuel system at all. There was no mention of how the engine is timed and that is critical on propane. High timing has a hugh effect on creating too much heat in the engine. The cooling system also needs to be in peak condition. Other factors such as a high compression ratio require greater cooling.

Here are guidelines for setting the timing on a propane engine.
On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.

I have 27 years in the propane conversion and repair business and there are several of my systems on crawlers.
__________________
Sincerely,



Buddy Gamel
Precision Sales & Service, Inc.
451 64th Place South
Birmingham, Ala. 35212

877-403-7827, office
205-837-8871, mobile
205-591-2267, fax


[email protected]
[email protected]
www.alternatefuel.com
www.workhorseservice.com
 
altfuel1991 said:
I do not remember seeing if your mixer was new or not. The reason I ask is whether it has been altered or not. On Impco mixers the power mixture is preset when assembled and should not need to be adjusted. You cannot set a propane engine by ear, it is too easy to get it way too rich. You can set the idle by ear and get close though. Checking plugs will not tell you whether it is running rich or lean unless the electrode is melted off since propane burns completely clean and leaves no residue on the plugs. Realistically you cannot treat this engine like it is gasoline powered, the two fuels are completely different and the rules are not the same. I played with timing in the shop on an engine one time and kept adjusting it until it had the absolute smoothest idle and then checked it with the timing light. It had 50 degrees timing at idle. As soon as the throttle was cracked it would start detonating and shaking though.

The problem might well not be the fuel system at all. There was no mention of how the engine is timed and that is critical on propane. High timing has a hugh effect on creating too much heat in the engine. The cooling system also needs to be in peak condition. Other factors such as a high compression ratio require greater cooling.

Here are guidelines for setting the timing on a propane engine.
On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.

I have 27 years in the propane conversion and repair business and there are several of my systems on crawlers.
__________________
Sincerely,



Buddy Gamel
Precision Sales & Service, Inc.
451 64th Place South
Birmingham, Ala. 35212

877-403-7827, office
205-837-8871, mobile
205-591-2267, fax


[email protected]
[email protected]
www.alternatefuel.com
www.workhorseservice.com

Buddy what about running locked out timing? Any negative effects to doing this with propane? I'm currently doing this with my propane powered 4.3 since the builder told me it would be best but I have issues with it bucking at warm startup


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There is no advantage to locking out the timing, actually it is destructive to the engine. It will not have good throttle response somewhere in the rpm range and not be efficient. If this were a staionary engine you could get away with it but any engine that has constantly changing throttle needs different timing throughout the range.
 
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