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6.7 Cummins vs 6.7 Powerstroke

2011 6.7 Cummins deleted. Love this thing now. But like others said, my transmission has gone full on window-licker. I got the line pressure tune and while I hope, read the hope part, that makes it last longer, it shifts like ****ing monkey is running through the gears with it's **** in it's hand.

I can't compare against the newer Fords, but they are definitely damn nice trucks. If I had to buy again, I'd be hard pressed to walk away from the Ford, only fear would be maintenance.
 
MoparMan said:
You're such a ****ing dipshit. Why don't you do us all a favor and go crawl back under that rock you've been hiding under.


:'( I just said I had to disagree with you. I never called anyone names and No need to be all upset sorry for hurting your feeling bud. Not been hiding just cover up with work.
 
86chevota said:
:'( I just said I had to disagree with you. I never called anyone names and No need to be all upset sorry for hurting your feeling bud. Not been hiding just cover up with work.

Oh ok, my bad. I haven't had time to be on here much lately either.
 
Plan to do clutch right away if you delete with manual trans.
If auto make sure you do trans tuning...which auto are you looking at?
 
The clutch is the biggest complaint a buddy of mine with a new dodge has. He's had it deleted and tuned. The idea wasn't to build a hot rod, but to get the bang for his buck since he was doing the work and tows all the time. He says everything is good til you need to pass someone or anything along those lines then it starts building steam and all of a sudden the motor keeps revving and the truck goes nowhere. It's also had an upgraded clutch put in...still does it. Pretty sure his is a 17 model crew cab 2500.
 
I bought a new ram 3500 chassis cab 6 manual and i new i was going to delete it so I installer boost gauge kit. the truck was a welding rig and weighted around 12 k all the time. It had a boost issue when pulling out in traffic, being factory, you would give it fuel, it would hesitate then surge to 35 lbs of boost, it should only be 25 lb factory. in 62 k miles the warranty installed five clutches. What was slipping was the duel mass assembly. I finally said the hell with it and deleted the truck with smarty and installed a duel disk south bend clutch. Tried to run the truck on performance (400 hp) but the small intercooler would not allow that so I have kept it on tow-haul. The truck has less than 300k miles and is on it's third duel disk clutch. This truck hardly ever tows so dodge , I think, has a clutch issue.
 
What about the Regen on each of these trucks? I have heard that you cant even tell when the Dodge goes through the regen mode and the Ford shows up on the display and your mileage goes way down during that time? Just want to hear some real experiences...
 
Juan_Hong_Loe said:
What about the Regen on each of these trucks? I have heard that you cant even tell when the Dodge goes through the regen mode and the Ford shows up on the display and your mileage goes way down during that time? Just want to hear some real experiences...

No experience with the dodge other than riding in a few to lunch and so.

I do own a '12 f250 and it will just pop up on display that it is regen mode. I average about 15-16 mpg driving like i do and have seen 20 on trips with cruise set at 70.
I really like mine and have no plans to sell and would buy the same truck again.
 
Both of them arent near as bad since urea injection has been introduced. Less egr and better timing.
16 and back fords will tell you when they are regenning. You can also enable the dpf% with forscan ( a free program to change all kinds of cool ****). https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1460787-forscan-spreadsheet.html

expect to regen every 3-500 miles depending on usage.

Most annoying thing to me was you drive 1.5 hours, and 5 mins before you get where your going the truck starts a regen, you cant start it yourself knowing the DPF is 85% full and your about to take a long drive.

I dont think the new rams tell you, but you can tell by sound of engine, occasional burnt smell and oil temp/coolant temp goes up, and mpg starts creeping down. Expect to fill up the DEF tank every oil change or a little sooner, depnding on how much you tow it can be two tanks per oil change.

Overall both are pretty seamless.

6 speed manual dodge, The only way you will be able to put any decent torque to the ground will be a very jumpy clutch, the smoother the engagement the less power they hold.
Full on ceramic will hold the power but forget slipping the clutch when backing a trailer unless you like broken axles. You can get a combo with organic on one side ceramic on the other that almost tolerable but they still suck. Max effort tune you will need a dual disc at minimum.

Max effort tune on my 2007 5.9 with cam and turbo(about 525 rwhp) a single disc 500 rwhp clutch eventually started slipping...after putting 3 different kinds in before, with upgraded hydraulics.
 
So if the truck is in regen when you get where you are going can you stop or do you have to keep driving until it's finished? Sorry if it's a dumb question. But I've never dealt with regen before. Haha
 
Re: Re: 6.7 Cummins vs 6.7 Powerstroke

RandysMJ said:
So if the truck is in regen when you get where you are going can you stop or do you have to keep driving until it's finished? Sorry if it's a dumb question. But I've never dealt with regen before. Haha
That's the way it is in semi trucks. The guys that shut off their regen tend to plug **** up. I've also noticed in big trucks that the harder you run them the less you'll regen or worry about emission issues. Idling a lot seems to cause problems too. I don't see why that all wouldn't be the same in light duty trucks.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
The dual disc organic Valair towing clutch that I have has held up well and not very jumpy. I am at 24k lbs most of the time. You do have to shift slower with a dual disc.
 
It will let you shut it off, but its not encouraged because of reasons stated above. Also next time you crank the truck it will not pick back up until later on, even if it only brought the dpf down to 85% full.

Agree with above on towing heavy and idling. Deleting seems to be much more beneficial for trucks that dont see towing duty 24/7.
 
Got a great deal on my 2013 F250 King Ranch 3 years ago and the KBB value is the same as I paid for it with 40000 more miles. If it wasn't for the light at the end of the tunnel for no payments, I'd definitely go get a 2017 due to the improvements and increased room.
 
I DD and tow with a 2015 Ram 2500 4X4 SWB CC with the 6 speed manual. Running 35's with the OEM 3.42 gears. Bought it new and currently has 56,xxx miles on it 100% trouble free. I tow our camper (4500#) and also my Ranger on a 34' GN (10K). Hand calculated I get 16.5 empty and 10-12 towing (depending on load and route)
The only thing I have done to the truck is added a BD throttle doohicky that opens the throttle much quicker than stock. It effectively gets rid of the Dodge "dead pedal"
Sometimes I wished I had the Aisin trans with the higher torque tune, but I also like having a simple truck with a manual trans. I used to build Mopar transmissions at the dealer and am/was fully aware of their lack of reliability.

I do plan to delete and add a tow tune at 80K. I'll also install an appropriate clutch at the same time.

When I bought the truck I wanted a low option XLT Ford, being a Ford guy. But a similarly equipped F250 was at least $10k more than my Tradesman. I paid $42xxx for mine brand hammer new in May of 2015. Pretty hard to beat IMO.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I DD and tow with a 2015 Ram 2500 4X4 SWB CC with the 6 speed manual. Running 35's with the OEM 3.42 gears. Bought it new and currently has 56,xxx miles on it 100% trouble free. I tow our camper (4500#) and also my Ranger on a 34' GN (10K). Hand calculated I get 16.5 empty and 10-12 towing (depending on load and route)
The only thing I have done to the truck is added a BD throttle doohicky that opens the throttle much quicker than stock. It effectively gets rid of the Dodge "dead pedal"
Sometimes I wished I had the Aisin trans with the higher torque tune, but I also like having a simple truck with a manual trans. I used to build Mopar transmissions at the dealer and am/was fully aware of their lack of reliability.

I do plan to delete and add a tow tune at 80K. I'll also install an appropriate clutch at the same time.

When I bought the truck I wanted a low option XLT Ford, being a Ford guy. But a similarly equipped F250 was at least $10k more than my Tradesman. I paid $42xxx for mine brand hammer new in May of 2015. Pretty hard to beat IMO.

Would you like a set of 3.73 gears really cheap?
 
Jody Treadway said:
Doubtful the juice would be worth the squeeze.
I have considered 4.11 gearing eventually but I'm pretty happy for the time being

I understand, just figured I'd check and make sure. :dblthumb:
 

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