Brakes

Running (2) 7/8 wilwood master cylinders with one wilwood pedal. Stock dana 60 brakes on front and disc brakes on 14 bolt. I've never really liked the brakes. I would like for it to stop a little better/easier. Is there a different bore size that would work better? Should I replace the front brakes with 3/4 ton?

Ford 60 or Chevy 60 the Ford dual pistons are amazing

Chevy

Changing out the front to 3/4 will help. What brake lines are you running? Also look into inline residual valves.

7/8 MC for front chevy 1 ton calipers
3/4 MC for most 1/2-3/4 ton chevy calipers that most use with disc brake conversions.

This worked well for me. I also used residual valves on each MC. I would also recommend as much hard line as possible. Only use flex line where needed.

I also have a d60 and a 14b. One ton brakes up front and jb7 3/4 ton in rear. I used wilwood 7 to 1 pedal assy and two 1" master cylinders. With a residual valve on both. Ran plastic brake line all the way to the calipers. I have great brakes! I wouldn't change a thing. The buggy weights 4200# sitting on 40" tires 4.3 to 1 atlas and a 2400rpm stall converter.

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I'm running 4an braided hose. No hard line at all. I would have put residual valves but I figured my mc's were mounted high enough that it wouldn't matter.

Hydroboost...

When you tried something that works as well as a well set up hydroboost it's hard to go back.

Bebop said:

Hydroboost...

When you tried something that works as well as a well set up hydroboost it's hard to go back.

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Keep in mind, hydroboost doesn't work when the engine isn't running. Not that it happens a ton but just something to consider.

I'll take my two MC mechanical brakes.

A booster is out of the question. Don't have the room to fit it.

wizzo said:

Keep in mind, hydroboost doesn't work when the engine isn't running. Not that it happens a ton but just something to consider.

I'll take my two MC mechanical brakes.

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Agreed.
But if your booster is working properly you should have at least 1 pump left to stop the vehicle after the engine shut off.

Bebop said:

Agreed. I
But if your booster is working properly you should have at least 1 pump left to stop the vehicle after the engine shut off.

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My concern is, **** happens. I don't want to be stuck on the trail with no motor and no brakes. I've been there seeing folks get drug off the trail. No brakes would just be salt in the wound at that point.

wizzo said:

My concern is, **** happens. I don't want to be stuck on the trail with no motor and no brakes. I've been there seeing folks get drug off the trail. No brakes would just be salt in the wound at that point.

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That's a very good point.

Hopefully I don't end up in that situation. But after trying a hydroboost equiped buggy (Patrick's) everyone in the little group we ride with made the switch.

wizzo said:

My concern is, **** happens. I don't want to be stuck on the trail with no motor and no brakes. I've been there seeing folks get drug off the trail. No brakes would just be salt in the wound at that point.

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You'd still have brakes, just shitty non-power brakes like most of the rigs running a dual mc setup. I'll take my power brakes for the 99% things are working fine.

Something else to keep in mind is the way you bleed a dual master cylinder set up. You need to bleed front and rear at the same time or you will be fighting the other master cylinder.

bgredjeep said:

You'd still have brakes, just shitty non-power brakes like most of the rigs running a dual mc setup. I'll take my power brakes for the 99% things are working fine.

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No thanks, I'll take my dual MC's, dual pedal set up all day. Independent systems are just another safety feature in my opinion. Line on one axle gets damaged, I still have brakes on one end.

I've seen rigs run off down hills b/c of brake issues. I'm gonna do what I feel is best to keep that from happening to me and anyone else for that matter.

Im with wizzo on this one...

Hydroboost is nice when it works - and a total shitshow when it doesnt.

K.I.S.S. method. Independent systems fall right into that category. And if they suck, you have them set up wrong...

So far we have:
3/4 in front 7/8 in rear
7/8 in front and 3/4 in rear
1 in front and 1 in rear

Talked with wilwood today and they said try 3/4 in front and 7/8 in rear.

Re: Re: Brakes

jmf said:

So far we have:
3/4 in front 7/8 in rear
7/8 in front and 3/4 in rear
1 in front and 1 in rear

Talked with wilwood today and they said try 3/4 in front and 7/8 in rear.

Click to expand...

Do you know your brake pedal ratio? What stall is your torque converter? To low of a stall tc will push threw just about any brakes.


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jmf said:

So far we have:
3/4 in front 7/8 in rear
7/8 in front and 3/4 in rear
1 in front and 1 in rear

Talked with wilwood today and they said try 3/4 in front and 7/8 in rear.

Click to expand...

I can tell you, I started with 1" front and 7/8" rear and did not like it at all. Moved 7/8 to front and put 3/4 on the rear and saw a very noticeable improvement.

Keep in mind, I run dual pedals, NOT a single with balance bar. That may play into it some.