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Sold/Expired 2004 Jeep Rubicon on tons, lots of uptravel and good parts

blacksheep10

XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
10,442
Location
Kansas, where we know how to wheel, nowhere to go
This started life as a 2004 rubicon, it has been significantly modified.
109" wheelbase
Still has the 4.0 HO, 129xxx miles. AC still blows cold. Aluminum radiator. Stock 5 speed.
Stak 5.0:1 transfer case. 1350 front yoke on 32 spline, 1410 rear yoke, 32 spline. Twin sticks.
1410 at case x 1350 at axle rear driveline. 1350 2 piece front driveline. All heavy wall.
Front axle is a 92-97 Ford HP60 with stock 35 spline inners, 806x's, 4340 outers and Spicer lockouts broached to 35 spline.
Rear axle is a 14 bolt shaved 1.75", disc brakes, detroit locker. HD cover and axle truss.
Raceline monster wheels with choice of 40" Nitto trail grappler stickies from a KOH racer about half tread, or NEW 40" Maxxis trepador radials.
Links are all 1" x 1.25", .375 DOM wall lowers, 3/4x7/8 with .250 wall DOM uppers. Double triangulated front and rear. Front lower link bridge on the chassis end is wide and flat for an auto trans pan for the swap most would prefer to do (LS/auto). Links are about 42" long. Lowers near flat at ride height, uppers running flat to uphill towards axle at ride height (19" belly with 6ish" uptravel on 40's). This was made to attack obstacles and not rebound off from steep link angles.
Steering is a full PSC system, TC pump, single ended ram, resi, lines etc.
Shocks are 4 ORI STX. The lengths gone to to have adequate uptravel and a low ride height are substantial. ORI like to be mid travel within an inch or 2 for a nice ride. The rear links stuff up into the tub at full bump as seen in the pictures.
Front axle stuffs so the tube hits the bottom of the frame, mini truss for diff side upper link starts just inside the frame. 2 piece front was needed to make it all clear full stuff to droop and clear the triangulated lower link.
backhalved with 2x4x3/16 rec tube.
Custom stainless steel fuel cell that is under the tub in the rear. It uses the stock pump and sender. You can access the pump from inside the tub if there is ever a problem. Fuel gauge works as well. The fuel is firewalled unlike most that put an aluminum cell behind the seat right by the rear passengers' heads. The rear seat clicks in still and is included with sale. 12.5 gallon.
LED rear lights.
The lower link cradle is bolted to the bottom of the frame with the stock skid bolts 4 places per side and through the frame sideways with 1/2" bolts 4 places per side with tubes welded in the frame so it won't crush when tightened and to maintain proper clamping force on the frame. It is all 3/16" thick and broke to follow the contour of the frame inside and out and welded to the bottom strap. The link crossmembers are 2x4x1/4 rec tube and the skid that joins them from to back is 1/4" GR50. 1/2" bolts hold the skid on.
Rokmen rockers and corner armor


I would call it 95% done. Some of the pics are in progress pics. Still needs some paint here and there, cage could have some bars dropped on the shock tower plates and other small stuff. Comes with a bikini or whatever you call the top that is on it in the pics, soft top, tops for the half doors, rear seat etc. I cut the front frame for a warn powerplant winch but it has moved on. Any standard winch fits in the hole. Still 4.10 gears, which is fine offroad with the low geared transfer case, and on road the 5 speed makes it ok to drive as well. If it were v8/auto swapped I'd imagine a regear would be in order. This thing was built to be a tank and take some abuse in the suspension/axle/steering department, but none of my friends wheel large rigs anymore so I have to move this on before it rots away from lack of use. Clean and clear Kansas title in my name ready to be signed over
Paola, KS, I get here and there a bit, went to cape girardeau Mo Fri night, I'm not afraid to travel a bit or meet, or go to a wheeling event and drop off. Number is in sig. Loand value should be between 10 and 11 K if you go that route, which helps on a toy purchase to be able to get a standard auto loan and insure it easily
Asking 20K. Will negotiate if you are reasonable.

Whole album:
http://s27.photobucket.com/user/blacksheep10/library/Scott%20TJ?sort=3&page=1

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Put about 6* positive caster in it, load reactive orbital. Smallest lock to lock they offered. A little darty on the road, but I cruise it quite a bit. Haven't had it on the highway really, just county roads to town and whatnot.
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Links stuff up into the front relief under the rear seat, the rear relief and hatch is the fuel pump and lines. To tuck it up high so it is above the bottom of the axle tube at full stuff and still use the stock sender and pump without modifying I had to push it up through the floor. If there is fuel pump trouble you simply take the access cover off and repair. it is robust enough to throw crap on top of or use for storage instead of a cell behind the seat.
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Underneath side of the 1/4" skid under the .134 wall SS tank.
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I wish PB didn't suck so badly. I have the cleaned up pics of it in its current condition on my phone, my PB app says they're uploaded but they don't show in any albums. It is currently sitting in my shipping container on teh battery tender just hanging out.
Asking 19K, ready to go, already picked up a 17 turbo RZR so now just wanting to sell. The only thing I want for myself outside of cash is powder coat stuff, 175 cfm air compressor or a partial on a lathe.
 
blacksheep10 said:
I wish PB didn't suck so badly. I have the cleaned up pics of it in its current condition on my phone, my PB app says they're uploaded but they don't show in any albums. It is currently sitting in my shipping container on teh battery tender just hanging out.
Asking 19K, ready to go, already picked up a 17 turbo RZR so now just wanting to sell. The only thing I want for myself outside of cash is powder coat stuff, 175 cfm air compressor or a partial on a lathe.

Send me the pics and i'll post em. i'd like to see em anyway 7316945936
 

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