Stuntman Autoworks
Well-Known Member
So why use unit bearings on the rear? Cheaper than buying spindles? Or did you want them for ease of replacement and maintenance?
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Yellow buggy build
- Thread starter d_daffron
- Start date
muddinmetal
Guntersville, AL
d_daffron said:
Dude, I'm just busting your balls. You have a badass rig and should be very proud of what you have accompliahed
BUG-E J
Don't get #labroned
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Messages
- 5,128
Simple and cheap. Every parts store in the world has those bearings. If I didn't already have the 300m rcv I would have did exactly what he did when I swapped my new rear in last year. The problems I had with my rear is it bent the spindle/to be area because the truss ran as far out as it could. I think this design would eliminate alot of that.Stuntman Autoworks said:
d_daffron
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if theyre necessarily cheaper than spindles, but the advantages areStuntman Autoworks said:
1. interchangeability, all four corners have the same unit bearings
2. Ability to run 40spline with no mods or expensive parts.
3. Strength/repairability. And this is definately debatable. In a unit bearing setup there is no spindle to bend. The load is pretty much transferred directly from the bearings to the housing. If I was to find a way to tear it up most likely it could be repaired by simply removing the 4 bolts that hold the bearing on and replacing the bearing. Its not like I'm going to put 100,000 miles on it and wear the bearing out anyway.
I picked up on the joke, thanks for the compliments.muddinmetal said:
They came off ebay $33 each. I wasnt a big fan of the "rainbow" tip but they changed colors pretty quick once they warmed up. I have to say theyre pretty quiet until you get on it hard. Heres a link to the ebay add.rugger99 said:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291838528308
Stuntman Autoworks
Well-Known Member
d_daffron said:
BUG-E J said:
Thanks those points make alot of sense.
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
Are you satisfied with the performance/quality of rear suspension?
MoparMan
Well-Known Member
BUG-E J said:
Haha Haha......what's so funny about this is I can actually see you saying this to him! :****:
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
Listen here, I'm not going to mess up this mans build thread...
But I sure as hell ain't taking no crap from you the damn "Nickelback of rockbouncers."
But I sure as hell ain't taking no crap from you the damn "Nickelback of rockbouncers."
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
Yeah it really sucks not breaking on the first hill every time I go out...
d_daffron
Well-Known Member
I think I see what youre getting at, yes I am very happy with my trailing arm setup. The only problem I have with it is too much travel. I ended up having to use limit straps to limit travel and keep from over travelling the universal joints in the rear driveshaft. I know I could grind the CV and get more travel out of it but it seems like overkill, plus I dont want to weaken the CV.Eddyj said:
In order to save a good bit of money on the front driveshaft I am using a stock 05+ super duty front driveshaft. The super duty shaft uses 1350 u joints and has a CV at the transfer case. By using it as is with the CV at the Tcase I was able to point the pinion up at the transfercase getting it higher up out of harm's way. I dont have a pic that shows the pinion angle, I'll try to get one later. One great advantage to using the super duty shaft is how easy it'd be to get a replacement should the current one fail.
Heres the picture of the rear suspension at full droop.
Here it is fully compressed but also from a different angle so you can't how crazy the travel is.
The rear Trailing arms are from Ruffstuff. They are their pre welded arms and they come with a lifetime warranty that includes racing applications because Ruffstuff claims theyre unbreakable. They are heavy at 40lbs each, but I dont worry about breaking them.
One of the main reasons I decided to go trailing arms was to keep chassis weight to a minimum. By using trailing arms I was able to mount the shocks closer to the chassis and didnt have to have any tube work over the rear axle at all. This saved a good bit of weight and also helped make the shock mounting points stronger since they mount at the point where the rollcage hoop, door bar, chassis upright, and chassis cross brace meet.
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
I had heard those are "unbreakable"
d_daffron
Well-Known Member
Well I'm no "Nickelback of rockbouncers" but we'll see about that unbreakable thing.
Again I love it. I run all kinds of things maybe nobody else would even chance.
Initially I wanna say man, can't believe you running cv's with all those ponies. That's why I asked how many beat downs you got on it?
Then again I run a 1330 front shaft joint and 1310s all around other than a 1350 at my rear axle flange. No cv's though after I see them explode so many times and you can't get em with any bigger joints that were OEM on anything or any bigger center balance pin inside the H block.
I wanna see some vids of you whalin on this thing. I think it's awesome!!! Sweet designs and thought you put into this thing
Initially I wanna say man, can't believe you running cv's with all those ponies. That's why I asked how many beat downs you got on it?
Then again I run a 1330 front shaft joint and 1310s all around other than a 1350 at my rear axle flange. No cv's though after I see them explode so many times and you can't get em with any bigger joints that were OEM on anything or any bigger center balance pin inside the H block.
I wanna see some vids of you whalin on this thing. I think it's awesome!!! Sweet designs and thought you put into this thing
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
I'm going to need you to run that over the scales.
I heard some pretty wild accusations on what this unit weighs.
Beat down?!? He wheels like an old lady. He only uses 25% throttle and picks excellent lines and just rolls up everything ( so lame )
I seen him go 50% tard on cable hill, he promised he would go full tard later but never did. :'(
I heard some pretty wild accusations on what this unit weighs.
Beat down?!? He wheels like an old lady. He only uses 25% throttle and picks excellent lines and just rolls up everything ( so lame )
I seen him go 50% tard on cable hill, he promised he would go full tard later but never did. :'(
d_daffron
Well-Known Member
Have you seen that many of the larger late model 1350 Double cardan CV's explode that weren't overextended? I didnt think it'd be a problem because I havn't personally seen many broken. We know 1350 joints will hold up so I didnt see why the CV wouldnt hold up too. I guess we will find out over time.
I actually have a few videos but I dont have a way to post them up. It really has zero true "beatdowns" on it. I made a semi aggressive pass at Cable Hill at Grayrock the other weekend but thats about the toughest time it has had. I might could have climbed it but figured I'd be more likely to break a front shaft and ruin the rest of the day.
I figure a set of front RCV's would be a game changer for beatdowns. I'm not worried about breaking the 40spl out back so with front RCV's I could drive like Mr. Rock bouncer Nickelback and still keep on wheelin.
I actually have a few videos but I dont have a way to post them up. It really has zero true "beatdowns" on it. I made a semi aggressive pass at Cable Hill at Grayrock the other weekend but thats about the toughest time it has had. I might could have climbed it but figured I'd be more likely to break a front shaft and ruin the rest of the day.
I figure a set of front RCV's would be a game changer for beatdowns. I'm not worried about breaking the 40spl out back so with front RCV's I could drive like Mr. Rock bouncer Nickelback and still keep on wheelin.
d_daffron
Well-Known Member
Man I want to weigh this thing too, I know its light but I dont know how light. Heck the scales may hurt my feelings but I garuntee I did everything I could afford to do to keep weight to a minimum.
