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Coleworx Terminator

smbroady82 said:
Nick I believe if I remember correctly, he's running the Ouverson alum, super 8 hubs so I'm assuming they're Rockwell spindles to accept the 47 spline stubs.

I may be wrong

that's correct, they are the Ouverson Chromoly spindles with their bushings. The buggy is geared pretty low for trail riding, so they don't spin very fast really. But, I wasn't ok with it at first to answer your question, I had to get some input from a few folks that had done it before haha
 
onetoncrawler said:
now, on to the real world numbers.

408 iron block stroker (4" stroke)
Callies Crank, Molnar Rods
custom Ross pistons, 4.030" - 12.5:1 compression
custom Comp cam - GVL - .622 intake/.615 exh.... Duration @ .050 237 intake/250 exhaust , 114 LSA
Trick Flow LS2 fast as cast heads (BTR blended valve job, BTR rockers and trunion upgrade, 65 CC chambers, PM guides, BTR .055" head gaskets, .660 lift BTR platinum springs w/ titanium ret.)
summit fabbed intake with 102 mm DBC throttle boddy
Holley 66 lb injectors running 110 VP race gas

we wanted as much load as possible on the dyno so we left the driveshaft in and just pulled the flanges at the front wheels. It made 315 HP @ 6500 rpm and 264 lb-ft of torque at 6000 rpm to the rear tires on 43" MT Baja Pro-X.

so, even though this is by far the biggest HP engine I've ever had, it is no where close to 1000 hp that get's tossed around so loosely now. it seems like it is going to be more than enough for my style of driving. The guys getting more than 600 crank HP with LS's must have some seriously built engines :****:

Mathematically if you have the typical 40% parasitic loss in the drivetrain, you are still north of 525hp at the crank. I am running a similar build but with a more aggressive cam, 90lb/hr injectors and I had to throw 10psi of boost at it to get north of 700hp.I'm looking forward to seeing what it will make at the tires
 
onetoncrawler said:
Not really that difficult, just jacked the wheel up so i could rotate it and they went in fairly easily

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Dam, that means I got some kinda issue.

The sets in the shop are always a nightmare to get put together for me. Seems like the stub is always cocked off center just a hair, first time I thought the hubs didnt fully seat, pulled down and checked all 4, checked spindle to knuckle and everything seems good.

I've started to wonder if it could be a knuckle to axle tube issue causing the slight misalignment, hub centers up nice on the spindle, but the stub seems to walk to one side inside the spindle.
 
fl-krawler said:
Mathematically if you have the typical 40% parasitic loss in the drivetrain, you are still north of 525hp at the crank. I am running a similar build but with a more aggressive cam, 90lb/hr injectors and I had to throw 10psi of boost at it to get north of 700hp.I'm looking forward to seeing what it will make at the tires

If his motor doesn't make 600+ on an engine dyno I will give up drinking and he needs to find a new engine builder. My 402 made 580 with a point and a half less compression. The chassis dyno numbers mean nothing to me. It's a tuning tool.
 
redneckengineered said:
If his motor doesn't make 600+ on an engine dyno I will give up drinking and he needs to find a new engine builder. My 402 made 580 with a point and a half less compression. The chassis dyno numbers mean nothing to me. It's a tuning tool.


molaugh
 
FlatlandFSJ said:
Dam, that means I got some kinda issue.

The sets in the shop are always a nightmare to get put together for me. Seems like the stub is always cocked off center just a hair, first time I thought the hubs didnt fully seat, pulled down and checked all 4, checked spindle to knuckle and everything seems good.

I've started to wonder if it could be a knuckle to axle tube issue causing the slight misalignment, hub centers up nice on the spindle, but the stub seems to walk to one side inside the spindle.

I have seen that, but was able to push the stub to allow the alignment
 
onetoncrawler said:
Not really that difficult, just jacked the wheel up so i could rotate it and they went in fairly easily

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Off-topic slightly...were you towing this through Memphis 7/11? Could have sworn I saw it on a trailer but I was a few cars back.
 
redneckengineered said:
If his motor doesn't make 600+ on an engine dyno I will give up drinking and he needs to find a new engine builder. My 402 made 580 with a point and a half less compression. The chassis dyno numbers mean nothing to me. It's a tuning tool.



You can make any style dyno read what ever you want, they are all just tuning tools.
 
redneckengineered said:
Thanks captain obvious. That doesn't change my point.

I think the point is to never get too impressed or depressed with dyno #s.

Example : In a v6 Turbo Buick you can go from a 3000 stall lock up converter to a 3000 stall non lock up and lose 80 horsepower on a dyno!!!! But yet go 7 tenths faster in the 1/4 which mathematically equals a 100 horsepower gain!!!! This is due to the difference of spool up time, torque multiplication, and the ability to load the engine and make it work differently.
 
Elliott said:
Well then professor, how is an engine dyno any better than a chassis dyno?

As long as you're not trying to manipulate the numbers like an idiot, there are a ton less variables to deal with. You're never going to get apples to apples but it's a hell of a lot closer than what you'll get on a chassis dyno. Pretty sure that's inarguable but go ahead and give it a shot. But who cares anyway, my only point was 525hp is a laughable estimate for that motor.
 
Elliott said:
Well then professor, how is an engine dyno any better than a chassis dyno?


As a measure of the actual power the engine is capable of... well you gotta use an engine dyno for that.


:dunno:


Chassis dyno doesn't tell you the output of the engine. It just lets you load the power train for tuning the engine (or **** measuring if you like to waste time and effort)
 
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