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JZ dovedtail yota on 39.5

jzmudbogger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
211
Location
marysville,wa
hey there I am getting ready to start linking and tubing the rear of my truck. One question though what static load rating of a heim joint rod end would I need? I am running the stock 3.0 v6, spools, 39.5 irok's soon to have duals. help me out.
 

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so your say I should be fine with this one XM-12 3/4" CrMo rod end w/ kevlar liner with Static Load Rating: 28,081 lbs.
 

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Well SIR!

Would you like my advice? I do things a bit over kill but IT WILL NOT BREAK......................................................EVER!!
I do this quite a bit...not all the time but WAY more than most. It is one way that is perfected through failure of others mostly but a few of mine as well. You could do this very well at or just above 12-1300$ that is doing the work yourself and is every bit of PRO ****!
The heim joint that you pictured is ok but will only be lin=mited to its positioning and function! I will tell you more if you are inclined!! also ...springs?? quarters coils air??? cheap would be xj 3" and with the formula i will give you it will result in a 60" articulation WITH STABILITY!!
Quarters= a hybrid of chevy and an add.
 
so your say I should be fine with this one XM-12 3/4" CrMo rod end w/ kevlar liner with Static Load Rating: 28,081 lbs.
I would say that is good enough. I would also do 3/4in johnny joints on the other end of all your links. That way it has some bushing cushion. Make sure and do a search on here or ask about lower link material ideas cause I know Ive seenalot of bent ones. I would also say that coil overs are the best but spendy and I see alot of the air shocks working good. If I were to do a link suspension I would go airshocks. quarter elipical is a waist of time, it unloads funny and isnt as reliable as the coil overs. Last option would be coils. Lots of rigs run them sucessfully. I would gather all the parts before taking it apart. Listen to anything crash has to say he knows his shizzy, that is all.:awesomework:
 
i forgot to mention that I already have the air shocks they are 16 " fox's and I have a pretty good idea of the route I am going with this, here my idea. but feel free to give me your thoughts good or bad everything helps.

4link setup:

7/8 rod end on both upper/lower link which will be 1.75" dom
16" air shocks
tabs/brackets from ballistic fab
 
ideas

OK you are way ahead here.... your lower links "by my opinion that is" need to be 40" eye to eye. the dom is 2" x .3750 wall. Use the2" or 2.5" X1" FORGED & threaded-they come in 2-2.5-&3. .DO NOT forget yuor Inserts....(CURRIE ENTERPRISES IS THE LOWEST PRICES ON THIS THAT I HAVE SEEN) they all have 9/16 bolt hole so make sure you make those adjustments when ordering your tabs. PS they charge more for that sometimes. your uppers..basicically on track with that ..they will be 32" eye to eye and use your heims there. the dom should be 1.5" .120 wall min. I know you run a 4 cyl but you can bash the living crap out of this all DECADE long before you have to do anything with it. especially if you get the greasable bolts ..or make the bolts you get greasable.. you should be around 10 to 17 $ per foot on the lower DOM and abot 5-7$ on the upper. YOU WILL NOT GET ANY CRAP BY SETTING THIS UP FROM ANY ONE NOT EVEN PRO GUYS! then PIMPING IT OUT WITH FOX---------DAMMMMMMM!
i forgot to mention that I already have the air shocks they are 16 " fox's and I have a pretty good idea of the route I am going with this, here my idea. but feel free to give me your thoughts good or bad everything helps.

4link setup:

7/8 rod end on both upper/lower link which will be 1.75" dom
16" air shocks
tabs/brackets from ballistic fab
 
well I put the order in for my dual case kit from marlin and the six shooter from trailgear:fawkdancesmiley: . just a few more things on the list to go, but the damn list gets longer everytime too.:mad:
 
a few months ago, awww I was probaly with a grand cherokee and a 4runner show them around reiter. you might have remember my truck being super to tall, I have done some things to it now. like took the body lift off, put toyota rears up front which dropped my front 3", took 2 leafs out of the rear, extended front slip driveline, now its low and flexy.

what were in?
 
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well the latest is that i made some tude adapters for my links, got 16 made ran out of time so I wasn't able to tap them. but here are some pics.

bung.jpg


Image0281.jpg


bung3.jpg


bung2.jpg
 
nice to see that thing gettin some work done to it. Make sure its done for memorial day though. We dont want to see it over on its side again at naches
 
budgetxj - is this sam???

just put a $500 order throught ballistic for 8 rod ends, 16 high misalignments, 8 bushings and bunch of tabs/brackets. once these parts get here should be ready to link front and rear.

the truck is sitting 5 inches lower and flexier than last year so it won't be anything like last year. i hope haha
 
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budgetxj - is this sam???

just put a $500 order throught ballistic for 8 rod ends, 16 high misalignments, 8 bushings and bunch of tabs/brackets. once these parts get here should be ready to link front and rear.

the truck is sitting 5 inches lower and flexier than last year so it won't be anything like last year. i hope haha

Did you ever fix your door from the elbe run?
 
no I didn't fix it yet, it is still tie with my hoodies hood string.:fawkdancesmiley: that was a sweet trail love to go do it again once your buggy is ready. dam thing looks sweet with the new tubing and skins
 
You also need to buy the adapter to a 4 cylinder case and put gears in that batch!!!
 
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