I think I need off set wheels or a wider stance for my 1985 toyota 4runner

Ed Bister · Apr 22, 2009

since no one can help me with this tread

http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37931

i'm moving on to another problem I think I have. Width on my front axle is to skinny and my truck feels very tipsy. i'm taking off the stupid body lift first but i used to have a toyota with wide offset 10" wheels and never felt like it was going to tip over around every off center off camber obstical. this truck is scary tippy swampers are rubbing on the front springs. i have 2" wheel spacers in the rear but nothing in the front. i need to decide if i'm going to just add wheel spacers to the front or if i should get some off set rims. can you all tell me in your experances what would be the trouble free way to go with this alteration. I would like this truck to be as wide as I can get but I wanted to know if there is any other disadvantages other then bump steer.
I have a high steer kit with a IFS box so I think the wider the better. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys!

PS please see if you can help me with the tread URL i put at the top of this tread as well:beer:

Ed Bister · Apr 22, 2009

here is my 4 runner

View attachment 30563

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HOrunner · Apr 22, 2009

with a bumper like that all you need is a cousin to marry!!!:redneck:
just kidding

You need an IFS rear end out of a 1986 or later yota, and 1.5 inch spacers up front. if still narrow go with the offset rims:awesomework:

If you dont wanna be so typsy go less lift and cut some sheet metal

Ed Bister · Apr 22, 2009

HOrunner said:
with a bumper like that all you need is a cousin to marry!!!:redneck:
just kidding

You need an IFS rear end out of a 1986 or later yota, and 1.5 inch spacers up front. if still narrow go with the offset rims:awesomework:

If you dont wanna be so typsy go less lift and cut some sheet metal

Funny guy with the bumper jokes....hahaha :kissmybutt: that bumper came with the truck and is gone as soon as my fab guy can get it in his shop for bumpers front and rear with rocksliders and welded tube all the way around!

You might be a redneck if you go to a family reunion looking for a date! :stirpot:

and yes you are correct about the IFS rear axle but cost wise i don't see that happening because of the Lockers and 5.29 yukon gears already in it. unless you can just swap out the third member between the housings. does anyone know if the third members are compatible?

Thanks!

wentz912 · Apr 22, 2009

yeah the third will just pop out of yours and into the IFS housing. shouldn't have to mess with anything at all.

86sasRunner · Apr 22, 2009

I have a wide rear end Hot tanked(Cleaned) ready for a 3rd. PM if interested. Thanks

jeepmauler · Apr 22, 2009

I built a set of wheels(15x8 6 lug) for a guy in Alabama(IIRC) that put Yota axles under his Sammi truggy and wanted to get it as wide as possible...I squeezed 1 7/8" of backspace out of the rim/center combo........the guy liked them.

I work at Trailready

crash2 · Apr 22, 2009

jeepmauler said:
I built a set of wheels(15x8 6 lug) for a guy in Alabama(IIRC) that put Yota axles under his Sammi truggy and wanted to get it as wide as possible...I squeezed 1 7/8" of backspace out of the rim/center combo........the guy liked them.

I work at Trailready

I have been drooling over the ones you did for bill (boosted).

jeepmauler · Apr 22, 2009

Those red rings are pretty blingtastic!!

I've got a new ring mounted up on one of my buggy wheels that we are aiming towards the the CORR race crowd.......It's getting some "real world" testing:redneck:

crash2 · Apr 22, 2009

Oh ya--they shine. Only downside is how small the holes are for the lug nuts. He had mentioned before he left for back east about how you guys can also bore them bigger. I can see how the small hole can and will be an issue on the trail.

jeepmauler · Apr 22, 2009

The smallish lug bore is really NOT an issue as long as you have a thin walled socket.The "problem" with making the lug bore larger is that they will protrude into the pilot bore ,which to me, is not a big deal but some people don't like the look of the interupted pilot bore wall.The lug bores are the same on my eight lug wheels and I have had them off several times on the trail and it's not a big deal.

When we "race prep" a set of wheels we make the lug bore 1.625 and it overlaps the pilot bore by a good deal.........the people that buy those wheels are expecting that "look" and obviously it serves a need as most run a large,flanged nut as opposed to an oem style tapered lug nut.

Zale · Apr 22, 2009

full size running gear.
a 44 and a 14bolt

jprcrpr94 · Apr 22, 2009

edbister said:
since no one can help me with this tread

"http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37931"

i'm moving on to another problem I think I have. Width on my front axle is to skinny and my truck feels very tipsy. i'm taking off the stupid body lift first but i used to have a toyota with wide offset 10" wheels and never felt like it was going to tip over around every off center off camber obstical. this truck is scary tippy swampers are rubbing on the front springs. i have 2" wheel spacers in the rear but nothing in the front. i need to decide if i'm going to just add wheel spacers to the front or if i should get some off set rims. can you all tell me in your experances what would be the trouble free way to go with this alteration. I would like this truck to be as wide as I can get but I wanted to know if there is any other disadvantages other then bump steer.
I have a high steer kit with a IFS box so I think the wider the better. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys!

PS please see if you can help me with the tread URL i put at the top of this tread as well:beer:

Just run spacers in the front. Rims with less backspacing would be the best, but spacers are a lot cheaper and shouldn't be a problem if you remember to re-torque them after each of the first couple trips on them. :beer:

crash2 · Apr 22, 2009

jeepmauler said:
The smallish lug bore is really NOT an issue as long as you have a thin walled socket.The "problem" with making the lug bore larger is that they will protrude into the pilot bore ,which to me, is not a big deal but some people don't like the look of the interupted pilot bore wall.The lug bores are the same on my eight lug wheels and I have had them off several times on the trail and it's not a big deal.

When we "race prep" a set of wheels we make the lug bore 1.625 and it overlaps the pilot bore by a good deal.........the people that buy those wheels are expecting that "look" and obviously it serves a need as most run a large,flanged nut as opposed to an oem style tapered lug nut.

Here is the problem I see and this comes from dealing with it alot at work with custom wheels. First being you need a thin wall socket and there are a bunch of issues that come along with that. Second, since there is such a tight clearance if there is any mud/crap in there--thats going to be a pain to deal with on the trail.

Any pics of how they look bored out? I don't recall seeing one done.

jeepmauler · Apr 22, 2009

crash said:
Here is the problem I see and this comes from dealing with it alot at work with custom wheels. First being you need a thin wall socket and there are a bunch of issues that come along with that. Second, since there is such a tight clearance if there is any mud/crap in there--thats going to be a pain to deal with on the trail.

Any pics of how they look bored out? I don't recall seeing one done.

This on the front of Larry's 7 truck and the only pic i could find that kinda shows the opened up lug bores.Not a great pic as it is of a converted wheel and not an HD....but you can see how the lug bore overlaps the pilot/hub bore....to me it creates a harsher/edgier look to the center area of the wheel.

Some people like it and some don't......I think it looks cool.

Bills wheels have the minimum backspace(3") for the 15HD so the lug bores are deep....as you go up in BS the bores(obviously) decrease in depth.

dirk · Apr 22, 2009

edbister said:
"http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37931"

PS please see if you can help me with the tread URL i put at the top of this tread as well:beer:

You need to click on the INSERT LINK button at the top of the message window...

http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37931

:beer:

Ed Bister · Apr 23, 2009

dirk said:
You need to click on the INSERT LINK button at the top of the message window...

http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37931

:beer:

Ok thanks for the help with that :beer: or you can copy and paste it into a new browser.

Thanks again

Ed Bister · Apr 23, 2009

jprcrpr94 said:
Just run spacers in the front. Rims with less backspacing would be the best, but spacers are a lot cheaper and shouldn't be a problem if you remember to re-torque them after each of the first couple trips on them. :beer:

this is what i think i need to do: Get a wide Rear housing swap out my thrid and use the wheel spacers i have in the rear on the front. this seems to be the smartest most cost efective way to widin out my stance. if i need more i will have to get a different offset wheel. i like the idea of using a 44 and a 14 bolt but that creates drivline issues. i think the wheels i have now have a negitive offset and that is not cool....

CHOP SHOP · Apr 23, 2009

you will hate it if youy put a fullsize or any dana44 in your truck.

Ed Bister · Apr 23, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
you will hate it if youy put a fullsize or any dana44 in your truck.

i just like the idea.....i will never do such a thing. I have a friend with a 1978 K5 blazer with a 44 and a 14 bolt with a 327 and a 350 tranny with a np 205 x case we where thinking about building him a 4 runner or jeep with everything that the K5 has under it. what would be the problem with doing that? is it that it is too wide? we saw a Jeep in evans creek with full size running gear and it was bad ass! anyway i like the idea of it weather or not we will do it is a totally different concept. is it possibal to mount Chevy full size running gear, 327 motor, trans and x case in a toyota? has anyone ever done it? :redneck: