stock toy power steering pump.

Has any one used a stock ps pump with full hydro steering? stock nothing done to it.

what have you done to your pump to make it work with full hydro??? any problems with it?

what do you got for me white trash?

You can up the pressure and volume pretty easy.

I used a write up on marlin's board when I did mine. I'll see if I can find it.

Cool. any problems?

It makes a ton of noise but no problems. I'm still just assist but it works 100% better with the mods done. I've been running this pump for about a year and a half. And you know how much I get out.

When I still had a steering box I drilled out the restrictor completely and it helped. When I went full hydro I couldn't turn to the right (retract side of the single ended ram) because it didn't have the pressure to move the limited volume when I needed it to. I used a few thin washers from my r/c box under the pressure spring and it is night and day difference. I love my steering now.

There is about 3/32-1/8" of washers under the piston. In most writeups they mention you have to shave the piston the same amount as the shim stack but when using washers the piston still has full travel with no mods.

The guys that have issues are shimming their pump too much and eating them up. Mine rarely makes any noise at all and I have a huge reservoir and decent sized cooler which helps.

did you drill out your restrictor plate?

WHITE TRASH said:

When I still had a steering box I drilled out the restrictor completely and it helped. When I went full hydro I couldn't turn to the right (retract side of the single ended ram) because it didn't have the pressure to move the limited volume when I needed it to. I used a few thin washers from my r/c box under the pressure spring and it is night and day difference. I love my steering now.

There is about 3/32-1/8" of washers under the piston. In most writeups they mention you have to shave the piston the same amount as the shim stack but when using washers the piston still has full travel with no mods.

The guys that have issues are shimming their pump too much and eating them up. Mine rarely makes any noise at all and I have a huge reservoir and decent sized cooler which helps.

Click to expand...

ok. ya im going full hydro and dont want to throw any more money away, so im looking for mods. I knew you would have something up you big ass sleave.:awesomework:

I used a few thin washers from my r/c box under the pressure spring. what is this WT???

Remove the output from the side of your pump. There is a piston in there under the restrictor. You want to make the restrictor the same size all the way through and use a small shim under that piston.

If you not in a huge hurry I'll be around this weekend I can show you what I did to mine.

here is some info i found.

I removed the big nut that the high pressure hose screws into and drilled it out to the
same size as the hole in the brass seat that the hose butts up against. I think it was 7/32".
Then I took the piston thing that's right behind the nut out and deepend and widened its slot
with a cutoff wheel. Its probably twice as wide and deep as it was before.
I put it back in and it made quite an improvement at slow speeds (idling)! Now I have to TRY to
turn the wheel fast enough to go faster than the ram can keep up. Under normal driving
conditions and offroad, I doubt I'll ever be steering that fast, so the little bit of slow-speed quirks
it used to have are essentially gone.
And my pump doesn't make much, if any, more noise than it did before either. I basically
followed the first part of TheLakerat's instructions for modifiying a Saginaw pump, only I didn't
cut the slot deep enough to hit the hole underneath like he says to.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html
The whole thing took less than 30 minutes (not including cleaning up the ATF mess).
After driving it around a little more today, I'd have to agree w/ Brandon that the steering is
very light (moreso after the pump mod) and kind of gives you a wandering feeling since it just
goes wherever you point the wheel. Not as much self-centering.
No big deal, you just gotta keep your hand on the wheel instead of just letting go when you want
it to go back straight.

This is from some other guy.

I drilled out the restrictor plate for more flow and did not mess with shimming the
valve body at all for more pressure. All I can say is the difference is seriously amazing. I drilled
the restrictor plate out with as big of a bit as would fit....13/64". Before my steering was
slooooooow. Tight, curvy roads were scary because the steering really couldn't keep up when I
was going faster than 15-20mph. I got it all back together last night and drove it down the street
and the tires turn as fast as I can turn the wheel now. It felt great.
Just for the record my setup is a 2x8 ram, a 3+ quart reservoir, a cooler, and some kind of orbital
valve.
All you have to do is pull your pump out and take off the big nut that the high pressure line
threads into. The nut is only part of a 2" long piece. In the middle is the restrictor plate. Just
drill down the center of the nut with the 13/64 bit, clean it out, and put it back together.

crazybluerider said:

Remove the output from the side of your pump. There is a piston in there under the restrictor. You want to make the restrictor the same size all the way through and use a small shim under that piston.

If you not in a huge hurry I'll be around this weekend I can show you what I did to mine.

Click to expand...

call me. but ya this weekend

3rd gen 4cyl pumps have a bigger port but since you are going to shim the piston i guess this is useless info:redneck:

toyota4x4matt said:

I used a few thin washers from my r/c box under the pressure spring. what is this WT???

Click to expand...

Small flat washers for 4-40 screws that My radio control rigs use.



You don't need to shim much at all to get more pressure... CBR will hook you up.