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Cage HELP!!!(crash mentioned this to u)

angelfly said:
u have any axle trouble with 1/2 ton **** on 42's hot damn thats pretty sweet

Broke a u joint in the front. Took three ears out of the chromo shafts:mad: .
a37.jpg

Time for a new chromo axleshaft n a bobby long joint

The rear is a currie hand fabbed housing. Looks like something out of a prerunner. trussed top, bottom, and rear, 9+ nodular third with an anodized pinion bearing suppor, 31 spline chromos, warn full floater.
 
thanx i will post up the pics with my new rims bobbed bed and shortened wheelbase oh and wheeling pics from sunday next week sometime
 
good looking truck... my buddy hase one with 38 on it and it dose well. i would do an internal cage with tube out the back in twords the front, if you did do an exo you would have a harder time getting through the trails. keep up the good work
 
i sent this pick a friend and this is what i got back talk about triangulation lol i am gonna be broke after i buy all the pipe
 

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lol yeah and he was convinced this is way the pros would do it so final conclusion who can i pay to build me a rear cage and a tube front bumper and rear????
 
angelfly said:
anybody else hello please hook me up with oh great words of wisdom

Don't know if there is any wisdom in these words but I’ll toss em in anyway.
Fullsize frames flex a bunch by design and if you solid mount that cage to the frame you are just setting your self up for cracks, in the attachment welds or in the frame rails.
A Toy or Heep is fairly easy to do what you are thinking successfully, not so easy on a Fullsize; you ether let it flex or add so much tube that it can’t.
An Exo capable of taking serious abuse on a Fullsize needs to be 2†tube and to account for all of the flex it needs to be at least 1 inch from the sheet metal. You just “supersized†a full size truck!
Build the bed so that the front hoop of the bed cage is part of the bed and solid mounts frame where you have it pinched in at the bottom in your first picture but extend you stiffening tubes in the center all the way down to the mounting points so that is makes an “Xâ€. Leave enough space between the hoop and the cab so that when it gets all flexed up it will not hit the cab. Sounds like a bomb going off when it hits at speed!
Mount the kicker tubes (the diagonal tubes going back & down) and the mid bed mount in spring eye bushings about half way back on the bed.
Do not solidly mount the rear bed mounts; use a flat Poly bushing between the bed and the frame mount and on the underside use heavy washers and a valve spring that is just tight enough so that things don’t rattle and a NyLoc nut or tack weld a regular nut. This will allow the frame to move somewhat freely without putting stress into the bed, bar or frame. This flex can come in real handy if you like twisting it up in rocks. Do not extend the bed cage into the cab.
Gut the cab and offset plate (top and bottom of the sheet metal) the mounting points with 10-GA MS. Offset stitch weld these plates top and bottom. That is a total PITA to do! Build a solid 6-PT in-cab cage and mount the seats (and Belts) to and inside the cage. Remount the cab to the frame using Poly mounts in the rear and the OE Rubber mounts in the front using all new bolts. Generally you do not need an engine cage on a trail toy so there is no need to attach it to the cab cage. Just built a stout front bumper and call it done.

Like I say'd, may not be wisdom, sure is opinion!
Chris
 
thanx thats the kinda of stuff i was looking for i think i am just gonna pay somebody and just call it go someone who knows what they are doing.
 
i have a full size truck if you want to wheel in the pnw dont put any money into makin your truck look goodand interior is much better than an exo because its gunna be tight fits even without the extra width
 
Wow, so why would you even cage it then? Are you trying to get worse gas mileage? Thats almost as bad as street locks, lol :flipoff:

~T.J.
 
money is no concern for me i can pay for gas and such i want to cage it caus ei like back caged trucks i think they look sweet and my goal is to build a truck that can be driven daily 30miles and hen hit the trails with out a hickup on the weekends. Yes i realize that requires good running gear and motor and suspension and i am slowly getting there in the past month i have dumped over 1500 into my front axel along including shafts gears u joints spindles hubs etc. I dont want an exo cage i want the back caged in like that and an interior roll cage. U ask me why i want to cage my daily driver then ask urself why do ricers put wings and body kits on there car when aredynamically speaking neither of those addition dont affect anything u ntill 120mph or better. ITs cause people like just like i am bulding a fullsize because i love them i want a cage cause i want one does it really matter why i ampaying for it with my hard earned money so why critisize it
 
just like do people spend the money to put big lift, wheels and tires on the trucks or suv's and the most dirt they see is maybe at the most a gravel road. :wtf:

because they like the way it looks.

atleast you mentioned hitting a trail if you want to. :D
 
So basically, you want a full size truggy.

You want this so you can drive to work and sometimes take it off road.

You dont care about money.

I say go for it then. I was more giving you a hard time than being a ****, notice the smilie? It is your money to do what you want with, and if you want it to be like that, then great go for it. Its your truck.

You did ask for help, and my help was I think that its a silly thing to do to a DD. I think the money would be better spent on your Jeep project since you would get more use out of that.

Build a nice flatbed or something for the fullsize, then get yourself a trailer and tow the Jeep out wheeling. Then you have lots of room for spare parts and crap. You lose a lot of that with a truggy IMO.

But hey, thats just my two cents, which you did ask for.

~T.J.
 
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