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Clayton H. Accident
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeff Furrier" data-source="post: 718269" data-attributes="member: 14301"><p>Yes, too low, they should be going straight back and coming through the seat at the top of the guide. Also look how far his shoulders are outside the seat, if that's how he looks when tightened in the seat the seat is too narrow and wont hold him in on any side motion. </p><p></p><p>Anyone ever get arm pump when driving? Hows your grip on the wheel? Is your left leg tired from pushing your self back into the seat from the dead pedal? All common signs of not being restrained properly. If your belts are tight and you fit your seat properly you shouldn't move that much, when you do you usually are bracing yourself with the steering wheel which wipes out your arms. If your lap belt is tight, why are you sliding forward to the point you have to push yourself back in the seat? Rock Buggies seem to move a bunch more than a traditional off road car, but you should be able to set it up to where you're restrained. The amount of energy saved over a long race can be the difference between winning and losing, or avoiding an rock, ditch or whatever because your arms still work. </p><p></p><p>Poke your set up looks pretty good, I like the lap belt mounts further back so the belt is at better angle across your hips. Suspension seats have more limitations becasue there's usually not much room to move the belts in the slots. The seats in the Poke rig have larger openings than most. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Another suspension seat tip is that if the pad is removable like on a Mastercraft 3G, we like to put a hard bottom between the pad and the seat bottom. The hard bottom will spread the energy across your butt and thighs more evenly rather than all of the pressure going to the lowest point like a trampoline. This also will reduce the amount you will travel downward in the seat slightly. ABS, thin plywood, masonite or something similar works, not nearly as good as a proper race seat but its something you can do to make it better.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeff Furrier, post: 718269, member: 14301"] Yes, too low, they should be going straight back and coming through the seat at the top of the guide. Also look how far his shoulders are outside the seat, if that's how he looks when tightened in the seat the seat is too narrow and wont hold him in on any side motion. Anyone ever get arm pump when driving? Hows your grip on the wheel? Is your left leg tired from pushing your self back into the seat from the dead pedal? All common signs of not being restrained properly. If your belts are tight and you fit your seat properly you shouldn't move that much, when you do you usually are bracing yourself with the steering wheel which wipes out your arms. If your lap belt is tight, why are you sliding forward to the point you have to push yourself back in the seat? Rock Buggies seem to move a bunch more than a traditional off road car, but you should be able to set it up to where you're restrained. The amount of energy saved over a long race can be the difference between winning and losing, or avoiding an rock, ditch or whatever because your arms still work. Poke your set up looks pretty good, I like the lap belt mounts further back so the belt is at better angle across your hips. Suspension seats have more limitations becasue there's usually not much room to move the belts in the slots. The seats in the Poke rig have larger openings than most. Another suspension seat tip is that if the pad is removable like on a Mastercraft 3G, we like to put a hard bottom between the pad and the seat bottom. The hard bottom will spread the energy across your butt and thighs more evenly rather than all of the pressure going to the lowest point like a trampoline. This also will reduce the amount you will travel downward in the seat slightly. ABS, thin plywood, masonite or something similar works, not nearly as good as a proper race seat but its something you can do to make it better. [/QUOTE]
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