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Coil over spring rates
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<blockquote data-quote="TacomaJD" data-source="post: 708671" data-attributes="member: 1780"><p>Is that calculated in with using a lower spring that is 2" longer than shock travel and upper spring equal to length of shock travel? If so, probably not entirely off by too much. My old full body yota with 4 banger and lots of exo cage with 14" fox 2.0 coilovers ON THE FRONT (air shocks rear) had 14" 150 lb upper spring and 16" 200 lb lower spring and rode plenty soft enough. Started out with 100 over 200 in the same lengths and it was way too soft, had preload cranked way down to get ride height I needed and was stupid soft. Swapping in a 150 lb top spring made a good difference in that I did not have to crank preload that much to achieve ride height, therefore allowing plenty room to let the top spring absorb all the minor bumps in the trail before the lower spring would have to kick in and work, if that makes sense. </p><p></p><p>I'm no shock expert, but I don't think those numbers are too far off at all for a good starting point. And a lot of times, if you order springs from someone like WOD or EOR, they'll let you do a spring exchange if you need to change up your spring rate one more time to fine tune it. That's what I did, ordered mine from EOR. Check with Adam or whoever you order from first to see if this is an option. <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/thumb.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt="thumb.gif" title="Thumb thumb.gif" data-shortname="thumb.gif" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Edit: Only thing I've not fully grasped in its entirety that sticks out to me is the 200/200 being the same rate spring on top and bottom. The cool thing about dual rate coilovers is adjusting your dual rate stop ring so that after a certain amount of up travel, the stop ring kicks in on the lower spring to greatly increase dampening or whatever term you want to use for getting stiffer. So the idea is to have your dual rate stop ring set so that if you are hauling ass down a mildly bumpy trail you are riding on the softer top spring, but when the uptravel begins to get worse when going over bigger stuff, the dual rate stop ring makes the lower spring kick in and further helps to stabilize the rig until it droops back out. hence why I would think it would be ideal to have a lighter top spring than lower spring, like 175/225 or something like that. But like I said, I'm just an amateur....so don't take anything I say to the bank. Lol</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TacomaJD, post: 708671, member: 1780"] Is that calculated in with using a lower spring that is 2" longer than shock travel and upper spring equal to length of shock travel? If so, probably not entirely off by too much. My old full body yota with 4 banger and lots of exo cage with 14" fox 2.0 coilovers ON THE FRONT (air shocks rear) had 14" 150 lb upper spring and 16" 200 lb lower spring and rode plenty soft enough. Started out with 100 over 200 in the same lengths and it was way too soft, had preload cranked way down to get ride height I needed and was stupid soft. Swapping in a 150 lb top spring made a good difference in that I did not have to crank preload that much to achieve ride height, therefore allowing plenty room to let the top spring absorb all the minor bumps in the trail before the lower spring would have to kick in and work, if that makes sense. I'm no shock expert, but I don't think those numbers are too far off at all for a good starting point. And a lot of times, if you order springs from someone like WOD or EOR, they'll let you do a spring exchange if you need to change up your spring rate one more time to fine tune it. That's what I did, ordered mine from EOR. Check with Adam or whoever you order from first to see if this is an option. thumb.gif Edit: Only thing I've not fully grasped in its entirety that sticks out to me is the 200/200 being the same rate spring on top and bottom. The cool thing about dual rate coilovers is adjusting your dual rate stop ring so that after a certain amount of up travel, the stop ring kicks in on the lower spring to greatly increase dampening or whatever term you want to use for getting stiffer. So the idea is to have your dual rate stop ring set so that if you are hauling ass down a mildly bumpy trail you are riding on the softer top spring, but when the uptravel begins to get worse when going over bigger stuff, the dual rate stop ring makes the lower spring kick in and further helps to stabilize the rig until it droops back out. hence why I would think it would be ideal to have a lighter top spring than lower spring, like 175/225 or something like that. But like I said, I'm just an amateur....so don't take anything I say to the bank. Lol [/QUOTE]
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