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<blockquote data-quote="onetoncrawler" data-source="post: 736313" data-attributes="member: 846"><p>Here's a little bit of tech and HP #s that may help someone else in the custom LS engine category. I learned most of this the hard way haha</p><p></p><p>I'm running a 58X crankshaft which normally comes with a 4X cam sensor. I didn't know about this until I had the buggy together and didn't put a 4X timing cover on. So, I had to use the 1X cam sensor located at the rear of the block. This means that the wiring (signal and hot) are different also. So, you have to re-pin the cam sensor connector. Not a big deal, as long as you know these things up front. </p><p></p><p>I decided mid build to upgrade engines to the one described below. This led me to swap from a standard LQ4 truck harness and computer to Holley HP. well ALL Holley EFI systems are speed density or Alpha numeric based so you no longer need a MAF. I had my intake designed for a blade style MAF so we had to do some swapping around to read only the IAT now. Not a big deal, had I known up front haha. </p><p></p><p>something else to consider when choosing your EFI is inputs/outputs. running I/O through the computer is so easy and if you are going to use a digital type dash like a lot of folks are doing then you can utilize the virtual switches. Well the HP only offers 4 I/O in the EFI harness (2+ and 2-). So, that posed a problem to me as my Speedwire systems relay panel only accepted ground triggers. So, I had to buy the additional harness for my dash and run my switches to my lights directly through it and not use the computer. This isn't a big deal, but it was more $$$. All this did allow me to have super clean/minimal wiring. I only have 1 ignition switch and 1 starter button to run the buggy. fuel pump, fans, etc. are all ran through the EFI. then I have virtual switches on the dash to control the lights. definitely the way to go in an offroad rig IMO. </p><p></p><p>now, on to the real world numbers. </p><p></p><p>408 iron block stroker (4" stroke)</p><p>Callies Crank, Molnar Rods</p><p>custom Ross pistons, 4.030" - 12.5:1 compression </p><p>custom Comp cam - GVL - .622 intake/.615 exh.... Duration @ .050 237 intake/250 exhaust , 114 LSA</p><p>Trick Flow LS2 fast as cast heads (BTR blended valve job, BTR rockers and trunion upgrade, 65 CC chambers, PM guides, BTR .055" head gaskets, .660 lift BTR platinum springs w/ titanium ret.)</p><p>summit fabbed intake with 102 mm DBC throttle boddy</p><p>Holley 66 lb injectors running 110 VP race gas</p><p></p><p>we wanted as much load as possible on the dyno so we left the driveshaft in and just pulled the flanges at the front wheels. It made 315 HP @ 6500 rpm and 264 lb-ft of torque at 6000 rpm to the rear tires on 43" MT Baja Pro-X. </p><p></p><p>so, even though this is by far the biggest HP engine I've ever had, it is no where close to 1000 hp that get's tossed around so loosely now. it seems like it is going to be more than enough for my style of driving. The guys getting more than 600 crank HP with LS's must have some seriously built engines :****:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="onetoncrawler, post: 736313, member: 846"] Here's a little bit of tech and HP #s that may help someone else in the custom LS engine category. I learned most of this the hard way haha I'm running a 58X crankshaft which normally comes with a 4X cam sensor. I didn't know about this until I had the buggy together and didn't put a 4X timing cover on. So, I had to use the 1X cam sensor located at the rear of the block. This means that the wiring (signal and hot) are different also. So, you have to re-pin the cam sensor connector. Not a big deal, as long as you know these things up front. I decided mid build to upgrade engines to the one described below. This led me to swap from a standard LQ4 truck harness and computer to Holley HP. well ALL Holley EFI systems are speed density or Alpha numeric based so you no longer need a MAF. I had my intake designed for a blade style MAF so we had to do some swapping around to read only the IAT now. Not a big deal, had I known up front haha. something else to consider when choosing your EFI is inputs/outputs. running I/O through the computer is so easy and if you are going to use a digital type dash like a lot of folks are doing then you can utilize the virtual switches. Well the HP only offers 4 I/O in the EFI harness (2+ and 2-). So, that posed a problem to me as my Speedwire systems relay panel only accepted ground triggers. So, I had to buy the additional harness for my dash and run my switches to my lights directly through it and not use the computer. This isn't a big deal, but it was more $$$. All this did allow me to have super clean/minimal wiring. I only have 1 ignition switch and 1 starter button to run the buggy. fuel pump, fans, etc. are all ran through the EFI. then I have virtual switches on the dash to control the lights. definitely the way to go in an offroad rig IMO. now, on to the real world numbers. 408 iron block stroker (4" stroke) Callies Crank, Molnar Rods custom Ross pistons, 4.030" - 12.5:1 compression custom Comp cam - GVL - .622 intake/.615 exh.... Duration @ .050 237 intake/250 exhaust , 114 LSA Trick Flow LS2 fast as cast heads (BTR blended valve job, BTR rockers and trunion upgrade, 65 CC chambers, PM guides, BTR .055" head gaskets, .660 lift BTR platinum springs w/ titanium ret.) summit fabbed intake with 102 mm DBC throttle boddy Holley 66 lb injectors running 110 VP race gas we wanted as much load as possible on the dyno so we left the driveshaft in and just pulled the flanges at the front wheels. It made 315 HP @ 6500 rpm and 264 lb-ft of torque at 6000 rpm to the rear tires on 43" MT Baja Pro-X. so, even though this is by far the biggest HP engine I've ever had, it is no where close to 1000 hp that get's tossed around so loosely now. it seems like it is going to be more than enough for my style of driving. The guys getting more than 600 crank HP with LS's must have some seriously built engines :****: [/QUOTE]
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