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My first LS build
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<blockquote data-quote="mna0121" data-source="post: 397729" data-attributes="member: 2868"><p>Yes, check, check and check again. Look close at the mains. A good machine shop writes the clearances on each cap and I have a paper with weights and other blue printing info on it. Any time a block receives studs it should be line honed. Back when I built my last engine in the early 90's it was $100 now it will destroy a $150 bill, but the clamping force is so much grater than bolts it will load the mains to the point of binding the crank shaft. You may get away with it but it will surly shorten the life of the bearings. Maybe another buddy on hand today will post a video to how freely the shaft turned once we get it in.</p><p></p><p>More tech, the machine shop checked the clearances and was in the .027 range but plastic gauge said .015. .015 is the tightest you can get away with. JR was not happy and suggested two options, polish the crank or get new bearings. I opted for polishing the crank. We went ahead and installed the crank to 60/50 and found out the crank was perfect, no way was it only .015. Here is what I think happened, new bearings, we failed to seat the shaft into the lower bearings, placed the plastic on top, placed the cap and pulled them down. In the process the caps squished the plastic from the top giving a false reading. What says you, open to all opinions.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mna0121, post: 397729, member: 2868"] Yes, check, check and check again. Look close at the mains. A good machine shop writes the clearances on each cap and I have a paper with weights and other blue printing info on it. Any time a block receives studs it should be line honed. Back when I built my last engine in the early 90's it was $100 now it will destroy a $150 bill, but the clamping force is so much grater than bolts it will load the mains to the point of binding the crank shaft. You may get away with it but it will surly shorten the life of the bearings. Maybe another buddy on hand today will post a video to how freely the shaft turned once we get it in. More tech, the machine shop checked the clearances and was in the .027 range but plastic gauge said .015. .015 is the tightest you can get away with. JR was not happy and suggested two options, polish the crank or get new bearings. I opted for polishing the crank. We went ahead and installed the crank to 60/50 and found out the crank was perfect, no way was it only .015. Here is what I think happened, new bearings, we failed to seat the shaft into the lower bearings, placed the plastic on top, placed the cap and pulled them down. In the process the caps squished the plastic from the top giving a false reading. What says you, open to all opinions. [/QUOTE]
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