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Never ending Samurai build...
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<blockquote data-quote="clemsonjeep" data-source="post: 711365" data-attributes="member: 6317"><p>This all started because I can't stop tinkering. With the Harley carb setup things were working great...and kept getting better everytime I tweaked it a little more. All along I've heard the factory intake manifolds for the 1.3/1.6 8v motors were the most limiting part of the motor. So...I was going to build my own intake manifold, but then once I started down that path I got back in touch with a guy in CA that had built a few of these CNC'd aluminum blocks that allowed the use of the motorcycle carbs. He'd put in a lot of time and research to test different setups so I felt confident in his information. If I remember correctly at one point he was running a 1.3 with the 1.6 8v head with these carbs and a turbo setup like mine and put down 147hp at the wheels. That's worth paying attention to!</p><p></p><p>So my setup will involve my 1.6 8v with the aluminum manifold. It is 1.5" thick and has the water jackets built into it that previously ran through the factory manifold to preheat the throttle body setup. This manifold also incorporates a place for the factory thermostat housing and temp sensor. There's 4 ports at the back corner where you run a vacuum line from each of the carbs which combines them and then supplies that vacuum to the large port at the rear which feeds the brake booster. I'll be setting mine up with the each pair of carbs tied together and going into one of the four ports. That way I have two extra ports which I'll use for my boost gauge and distributor advance.</p><p></p><p>The carbs I'm using are from a 98-06 Suzuki Katana 750cc. The manifold was setup for the 600cc size carbs, but like I mentioned I had already started building a manifold so I'd gone with the 750's since I found a good set for cheap. What this means is the bores of the carbs don't line up perfectly with the holes in the manifold...mainly due to the way the boots between them and the manifold are made. The bores on the carbs themselves line up perfectly with the manifold when you take the boots out of the mix however the manifold is set up to use the boots.</p><p></p><p>As far as mods to the carbs go all I had to do was break them down and remove the vent tubes that provide atmospheric pressure to the float bowls. I epoxied these openings shut and drilled ports facing forward. Then I made up four pieces of 3/16" brake line with bubble flares and epoxied them into place. This way I can provide a boost reference to the float bowls. That's what the Y's are coming off the front of the carbs in the pics above. There will be a short piece of hose between there and the plenum which I still have to build. I'll also be swapping over my fuel pressure regulator from the previous setup.</p><p></p><p>Here's a close up of the epoxy...</p><p></p><p><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/5d7f89521c424b024e3a99cd1807c206.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="clemsonjeep, post: 711365, member: 6317"] This all started because I can't stop tinkering. With the Harley carb setup things were working great...and kept getting better everytime I tweaked it a little more. All along I've heard the factory intake manifolds for the 1.3/1.6 8v motors were the most limiting part of the motor. So...I was going to build my own intake manifold, but then once I started down that path I got back in touch with a guy in CA that had built a few of these CNC'd aluminum blocks that allowed the use of the motorcycle carbs. He'd put in a lot of time and research to test different setups so I felt confident in his information. If I remember correctly at one point he was running a 1.3 with the 1.6 8v head with these carbs and a turbo setup like mine and put down 147hp at the wheels. That's worth paying attention to! So my setup will involve my 1.6 8v with the aluminum manifold. It is 1.5" thick and has the water jackets built into it that previously ran through the factory manifold to preheat the throttle body setup. This manifold also incorporates a place for the factory thermostat housing and temp sensor. There's 4 ports at the back corner where you run a vacuum line from each of the carbs which combines them and then supplies that vacuum to the large port at the rear which feeds the brake booster. I'll be setting mine up with the each pair of carbs tied together and going into one of the four ports. That way I have two extra ports which I'll use for my boost gauge and distributor advance. The carbs I'm using are from a 98-06 Suzuki Katana 750cc. The manifold was setup for the 600cc size carbs, but like I mentioned I had already started building a manifold so I'd gone with the 750's since I found a good set for cheap. What this means is the bores of the carbs don't line up perfectly with the holes in the manifold...mainly due to the way the boots between them and the manifold are made. The bores on the carbs themselves line up perfectly with the manifold when you take the boots out of the mix however the manifold is set up to use the boots. As far as mods to the carbs go all I had to do was break them down and remove the vent tubes that provide atmospheric pressure to the float bowls. I epoxied these openings shut and drilled ports facing forward. Then I made up four pieces of 3/16" brake line with bubble flares and epoxied them into place. This way I can provide a boost reference to the float bowls. That's what the Y's are coming off the front of the carbs in the pics above. There will be a short piece of hose between there and the plenum which I still have to build. I'll also be swapping over my fuel pressure regulator from the previous setup. Here's a close up of the epoxy... [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/5d7f89521c424b024e3a99cd1807c206.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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