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Tech & Fab
RCV Big Bells in 05+ F250/350 outers
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<blockquote data-quote="94xjsport94" data-source="post: 722045" data-attributes="member: 8585"><p>Nice thread, I read this last night at work but got caught up and couldn't respond. </p><p></p><p>I just installed my upper BJE kit on friday and was surprised with how nice and easy it really was. I'm running just normal 1480 bell 4340 RCV shafts in mine and found it kind of a pain in the ass to put everything back together though. I left my UB/ stub/ flange/ and all together when I removed the knuckle to weld in the bung for the BJE, so maybe I just had too much weight to try and move around while trying to line up the inner shaft/ CV/ UB in the knuckle/ and get everything to slide together. I can only imagine it being a bigger PITA with the big bell. </p><p></p><p>My question is do you think there is a need for the big bell in the 250/350 knuckle other than say using the C's and knuckles on a new housing swap? You dont think 300m shafts in a 1480 cv would hold up to 99% of wheelers out there? I didn't look into the prices of the big bell stuff when I bought mine last year and didn't really think I had the basis to ask to try it out seeing as how I don't have the big woopow driveline or driving style others do. I asked Ricky if they would fit in my knuckles and I believe he didn't know at the time if they would or not. I went RCV over Branik, spidertrax, or ouverson because of price and warranty. I just wasnt looking to drop 3k on ouverson/ branik direct drive 1550 shafts, that I'm sure I would never break, with no warranty. I'm happy with what I paid for my RCV's and how they have held up this past year. I was torn between the stock 1550 shafts and joints over RCV's for a while. My friend Tyler in FL has broken two 1550 stubs where they neck down to go into the UB with a knocking 4.8 and 40" treps. Joints were fine but he broke the stub shaft and has bent several upper BJ's by jumping his. I never broke the BJ's in mine, but they did pop apart while I was in Moab in 2016. </p><p></p><p>My only beef with the RCV shafts is that you can't access their grease fitting in the cv with how the 05+ knuckle is made. I guess you just have to bend the needle fitting to fit under the boot and shoot new grease in it that way? I repacked mine up with new grease when they were apart this weekend. </p><p></p><p>I feel pretty confident my 60 will hold up to my new drive line and driving style. Guess the RG is my new weak point. 05+ housing, TMR truss, 5.38's, spool, 4340 RCV's, BJE kit, ECGS flanges, and stock UB/ brakes. </p><p></p><p>Do ya'll think there is a demand or interest in a small brake kit still? I've been working on a few things and think i have the rear kinda figured out using the stock 10.5 rotor and chevy 1/2 ton brakes but I'm still looking at rotors for the front since i'm 8x6.5 that will work with chevy 1/2 ton brakes. Have a few things I want to try in the next few months before I yank my drivetrain out. </p><p></p><p>Are all the 05+ RCV stubs/ CV's 300m? Someone told me they were but I don't know for certain.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="94xjsport94, post: 722045, member: 8585"] Nice thread, I read this last night at work but got caught up and couldn't respond. I just installed my upper BJE kit on friday and was surprised with how nice and easy it really was. I'm running just normal 1480 bell 4340 RCV shafts in mine and found it kind of a pain in the ass to put everything back together though. I left my UB/ stub/ flange/ and all together when I removed the knuckle to weld in the bung for the BJE, so maybe I just had too much weight to try and move around while trying to line up the inner shaft/ CV/ UB in the knuckle/ and get everything to slide together. I can only imagine it being a bigger PITA with the big bell. My question is do you think there is a need for the big bell in the 250/350 knuckle other than say using the C's and knuckles on a new housing swap? You dont think 300m shafts in a 1480 cv would hold up to 99% of wheelers out there? I didn't look into the prices of the big bell stuff when I bought mine last year and didn't really think I had the basis to ask to try it out seeing as how I don't have the big woopow driveline or driving style others do. I asked Ricky if they would fit in my knuckles and I believe he didn't know at the time if they would or not. I went RCV over Branik, spidertrax, or ouverson because of price and warranty. I just wasnt looking to drop 3k on ouverson/ branik direct drive 1550 shafts, that I'm sure I would never break, with no warranty. I'm happy with what I paid for my RCV's and how they have held up this past year. I was torn between the stock 1550 shafts and joints over RCV's for a while. My friend Tyler in FL has broken two 1550 stubs where they neck down to go into the UB with a knocking 4.8 and 40" treps. Joints were fine but he broke the stub shaft and has bent several upper BJ's by jumping his. I never broke the BJ's in mine, but they did pop apart while I was in Moab in 2016. My only beef with the RCV shafts is that you can't access their grease fitting in the cv with how the 05+ knuckle is made. I guess you just have to bend the needle fitting to fit under the boot and shoot new grease in it that way? I repacked mine up with new grease when they were apart this weekend. I feel pretty confident my 60 will hold up to my new drive line and driving style. Guess the RG is my new weak point. 05+ housing, TMR truss, 5.38's, spool, 4340 RCV's, BJE kit, ECGS flanges, and stock UB/ brakes. Do ya'll think there is a demand or interest in a small brake kit still? I've been working on a few things and think i have the rear kinda figured out using the stock 10.5 rotor and chevy 1/2 ton brakes but I'm still looking at rotors for the front since i'm 8x6.5 that will work with chevy 1/2 ton brakes. Have a few things I want to try in the next few months before I yank my drivetrain out. Are all the 05+ RCV stubs/ CV's 300m? Someone told me they were but I don't know for certain. [/QUOTE]
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