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Tech & Fab
Toyota drive flange failure
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<blockquote data-quote="jordan7118" data-source="post: 598105" data-attributes="member: 1253"><p>Eliminate the split lock washers. This will sound crazy, but split lock washers actually allow a bolt to loosen over time easier than flat metal-to-metal friction. It requires less torque to loosen a nut with a split washer behind it compared to a nut with nothing behind it. </p><p></p><p>Sheared off all 6 studs and the two dowel pins on my full-float rear 80-series axle a month or so ago. Decided crowd go with ARPs. One thing I had considered was 10mm studs, cone washers, and 10mm dowel pins. Believe that's how a 100-series is setup. In the end, having non-custom parts won out over drilling stuff large. Time will tell if that was a good call <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/woody.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":woody:" title="Woody :woody:" data-shortname=":woody:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jordan7118, post: 598105, member: 1253"] Eliminate the split lock washers. This will sound crazy, but split lock washers actually allow a bolt to loosen over time easier than flat metal-to-metal friction. It requires less torque to loosen a nut with a split washer behind it compared to a nut with nothing behind it. Sheared off all 6 studs and the two dowel pins on my full-float rear 80-series axle a month or so ago. Decided crowd go with ARPs. One thing I had considered was 10mm studs, cone washers, and 10mm dowel pins. Believe that's how a 100-series is setup. In the end, having non-custom parts won out over drilling stuff large. Time will tell if that was a good call :woody: [/QUOTE]
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