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Yellow buggy build
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<blockquote data-quote="d_daffron" data-source="post: 726522" data-attributes="member: 4983"><p>I think I see what youre getting at, yes I am very happy with my trailing arm setup. The only problem I have with it is too much travel. I ended up having to use limit straps to limit travel and keep from over travelling the universal joints in the rear driveshaft. I know I could grind the CV and get more travel out of it but it seems like overkill, plus I dont want to weaken the CV.</p><p></p><p>In order to save a good bit of money on the front driveshaft I am using a stock 05+ super duty front driveshaft. The super duty shaft uses 1350 u joints and has a CV at the transfer case. By using it as is with the CV at the Tcase I was able to point the pinion up at the transfercase getting it higher up out of harm's way. I dont have a pic that shows the pinion angle, I'll try to get one later. One great advantage to using the super duty shaft is how easy it'd be to get a replacement should the current one fail.</p><p></p><p>Heres the picture of the rear suspension at full droop. </p><p><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/84d1543d2b674364037597d3e09c5120.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Here it is fully compressed but also from a different angle so you can't how crazy the travel is. </p><p><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/faaf9765afaa5d35d5e2f0cf02147870.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The rear Trailing arms are from Ruffstuff. They are their pre welded arms and they come with a lifetime warranty that includes racing applications because Ruffstuff claims theyre unbreakable. They are heavy at 40lbs each, but I dont worry about breaking them.</p><p></p><p>One of the main reasons I decided to go trailing arms was to keep chassis weight to a minimum. By using trailing arms I was able to mount the shocks closer to the chassis and didnt have to have any tube work over the rear axle at all. This saved a good bit of weight and also helped make the shock mounting points stronger since they mount at the point where the rollcage hoop, door bar, chassis upright, and chassis cross brace meet.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="d_daffron, post: 726522, member: 4983"] I think I see what youre getting at, yes I am very happy with my trailing arm setup. The only problem I have with it is too much travel. I ended up having to use limit straps to limit travel and keep from over travelling the universal joints in the rear driveshaft. I know I could grind the CV and get more travel out of it but it seems like overkill, plus I dont want to weaken the CV. In order to save a good bit of money on the front driveshaft I am using a stock 05+ super duty front driveshaft. The super duty shaft uses 1350 u joints and has a CV at the transfer case. By using it as is with the CV at the Tcase I was able to point the pinion up at the transfercase getting it higher up out of harm's way. I dont have a pic that shows the pinion angle, I'll try to get one later. One great advantage to using the super duty shaft is how easy it'd be to get a replacement should the current one fail. Heres the picture of the rear suspension at full droop. [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/84d1543d2b674364037597d3e09c5120.jpg[/IMG] Here it is fully compressed but also from a different angle so you can't how crazy the travel is. [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/faaf9765afaa5d35d5e2f0cf02147870.jpg[/IMG] The rear Trailing arms are from Ruffstuff. They are their pre welded arms and they come with a lifetime warranty that includes racing applications because Ruffstuff claims theyre unbreakable. They are heavy at 40lbs each, but I dont worry about breaking them. One of the main reasons I decided to go trailing arms was to keep chassis weight to a minimum. By using trailing arms I was able to mount the shocks closer to the chassis and didnt have to have any tube work over the rear axle at all. This saved a good bit of weight and also helped make the shock mounting points stronger since they mount at the point where the rollcage hoop, door bar, chassis upright, and chassis cross brace meet. [/QUOTE]
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