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Another lil something.....

So I got the console mounted into place, switch pod mounting done and the hand brake. Now its time to get the switch wiring done next.
 

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I got the switch pod wired up and the chassis side. I made it so its plug and play :awesomework:
 

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So I was pre planning the start of tinning the rig and found the hydro lines were above the line for the top dash panel. I threw the seat in and sat in it and found the steering wheel was way too low (tilted) to the point my knee was in the way. So I looked it over and cut the orbital mount off and redid it. I lowered it a tad and changed the angle--should be perfect now.
 

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Now to start the learning curve :redneck: and teach myself some tin skillz :redneck:.

I started with the easy panel..
 

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Now the fun began. I don't think there was any pre-planning for any sort of floor in this thing. It took a bunch of measuring, cardboard and more measuring but I was able to get the panels made for under the seats. It isn't a perfect fit (back corners where they meet the console) but I think they turned out pretty good and able to do them both in one shot.
 

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This piece was tricky with having tube in the way on both sides. It just took time to fit,mark,remove,cut..

I was able to get a good fit though and happy with the outcome.
 

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This is the gauge panel that came in the stash of parts... I tossed it :redneck:
 

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And this is what I came up with. I ended up having to do it twice due to finding out the limitations of the tool the hard way,lol..

It was very tricky though due to the multiple angles and the fact it was between panels. I ended up overlapping the top dash panel simply to keep any water from walking down onto the electrical center.

Now its ready for the gauges and the master battery switch.
 

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The accel pedal mount ended up being easier than I thought it would be--actually pretty simple once I got the pedal up in the general area.
 

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The Lokar mount at the throttle body and cable were pretty slick and worked very well..
 

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Looks like it will work...
 

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This was tricky to do--brake switch due to how it was setup internally. At rest the circuit was closed so as the pedal was pushed I needed it to move towards the at rest position. Had it been open at rest and closed when moved it would have been much simpler to setup.
 

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A little light test. The 4" HID's are pretty bright.
 

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This was tricky to do--brake switch due to how it was setup internally. At rest the circuit was closed so as the pedal was pushed I needed it to move towards the at rest position. Had it been open at rest and closed when moved it would have been much simpler to setup.

Why wouldn't you use a switch that plums in to your brake lines?
 

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