Front Antiwrap set up

money_pit_yj · Oct 7, 2014

Spring over YJ on Dana 60 with heavy big block up front. The overload spring has been taken out and the springs sit flat. Axle wrap is a problem and will continue to be a problem so what is a solution? (in addition to adding the spring back).

5BrothersFabrication · Oct 7, 2014

4-link and coils. :****:

al1tonyota · Oct 7, 2014

Old school I like it make a mount off of the top of the u bolt plate and run a link from there to the fixed leaf spring mount! will semi work like a 4 link! Keep your u bolts tight! If you use left and right heims you can preload the leaf pack a little also!

bobo · Oct 7, 2014

I have a similar set up except with a heavy ass I-6. Thinking about putting a slip and twist anti-wrap bar on the front of mine. Not sure how
well it work though ???

TBItoy · Oct 7, 2014

Re:

Are the shackles on the front or rear of the springs?

POR · Oct 7, 2014

al1tonyota said:
Old school I like it make a mount off of the top of the u bolt plate and run a link from there to the fixed leaf spring mount! will semi work like a 4 link! Keep your u bolts tight! If you use left and right heims you can preload the leaf pack a little also!

I'd go this route seems to work well on Sams buggy

money_pit_yj · Oct 8, 2014

Re:

TBItoy said:
Are the shackles on the front or rear of the springs?

Front

zukiscott · Oct 8, 2014

al1tonyota said:
Old school I like it make a mount off of the top of the u bolt plate and run a link from there to the fixed leaf spring mount! will semi work like a 4 link! Keep your u bolts tight! If you use left and right heims you can preload the leaf pack a little also!

YEP,,,,,,been runnin mine that way for years now,,,works great,,,,,,,

I run stock YJ leafs

kmcminn · Oct 8, 2014

What Julio and Lee just said works great I have had several like this. It works great.

B.DRAKE · Oct 8, 2014

kmcminn said:
What Julio and Lee just said works great I have had several like this. It works great.

Yep!

money_pit_yj · Oct 8, 2014

ScottsPics said:
YEP,,,,,,been runnin mine that way for years now,,,works great,,,,,,,

I run stock YJ leafs

Is that just a top link off a tractor? If its not would a heavy top link work? I've got those by the dozen!

kmcminn · Oct 8, 2014

That appears to be a tractor link. They work good and they are like 20 bucks at tractor supply.

SB406 · Oct 8, 2014

If you look at the factory swaybar on fullsize Chevy's, it's basically set up to bind the fixed end of the spring like the pictures above.
Some other solutions-
A buddy of mine put a traction bar on his front 60 back when he ran leafs, and he liked to party. It worked flawlessly.

I have 52" Chevy leafs up front. I run overloads from a 56" pack (offset pin). I put the long end forward and it acts like an old school slapper bar. It's been that way for probably 5 years.

tallnate · Oct 8, 2014

POR said:
I'd go this route seems to work well on Sams buggy

Agreed, if you know who big Sam is, check out his track bar setup on his front driver leaf. He has the same setup as al1tonyota is describing. Works great.

money_pit_yj · Oct 8, 2014

is Big Sam on Hardline?

5BrothersFabrication said:
4-link and coils. :****:

Also this brings up a whole new question. When you built your 4 link, did you do a bunch of measuring and calculating and use the link calculator on Pirate or did you just copy someone with similar setup and wing it?

zukiscott · Oct 8, 2014

kmcminn said:
That appears to be a tractor link. They work good and they are like 20 bucks at tractor supply.

THATS RIGHT :dblthumb:

tallnate · Oct 8, 2014

money_pit_yj said:
is Big Sam on Hardline?

Yeah he's on Hardline.. kinda haha. He'll get on here and make a comment once every month or 2.

Also this brings up a whole new question. When you built your 4 link, did you do a bunch of measuring and calculating and use the link calculator on Pirate or did you just copy someone with similar setup and wing it?

I did a lot of research first and analyzed the geometry of different designs. I did run the numbers in the 4-link calcualtor and it pretty much came up with exactly what I'd hand calculated. I probably spent the most time sitting on the floor starring at my rig visualizing where and how I wanted the links set..

There's a couple basic main principles I used with my link setup. If you follow these, I can pretty much guarantee you're setup will work right and you'll be happy with it IMHO.

The vertical separation of upper and lower links at the axle should be 25% of you're tire diameter.
The vertical seperation of upper and lower links at you're frame mounts should be half of the separation at the axle meaning 1/8 of your tire diameter.
Upper links should be level to the ground at ride height and roughly 70% of the length of your lower links from a horizontal perspective. Meaning if your standing directly to the side of your vehicle, the distance from the center of the bolt through the rear heim to the center of the bolt through the front heim should be 70% of the length from center bolt to center bolt of lower links. (This is not a measurement of the link distance, it purely a measurement from a horizontal view on the X axis.)
Upper triangulation needs to be as close 45 degrees as possible.. meaning if you're standing behind the axle the left upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the left and the right upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the right of the center line.
Lastly the lower links need to triangulate in from the axle mount to the frame mount. The tricky part here is that the amount of lower link triangulation will define you're vehicles anti squat meaning it's tendency to have or not have body roll in off camber situations. Basically lesser triangulation in the lower links meaning a link that points more towards the frame rail instead of pointing to the center of the vehicle creates more anti squat. More anti squat creates a more stable feeling or stance when your sideways on a hill but the lesser the lowers are triangulated, the more the axle will walk in towards the center of the vehicle as your suspension drops out. I prefer lesser triangulation in my lowers because I like to feel stable and planted. Big Sam came by the shop when I was setting up my rear links and when he saw where I was planning to set my lowers he said yep you're dead on, he mentioned that his main reason for stopping by was to make sure I wasn't planning to triangulate my lowers a whole bunch. My lowers do bump the rocks from time to time but that hasn't bothered me or cause any problems at all. Overall I couldn't be happier with how my setup performs. Here's a few pics of my rear links when I got finished.

stano · Oct 9, 2014

tallnate said:
I did a lot of research first and analyzed the geometry of different designs. I did run the numbers in the 4-link calcualtor and it pretty much came up with exactly what I'd hand calculated. I probably spent the most time sitting on the floor starring at my rig visualizing where and how I wanted the links set..

There's a couple basic main principles I used with my link setup. If you follow these, I can pretty much guarantee you're setup will work right and you'll be happy with it IMHO.

The vertical separation of upper and lower links at the axle should be 25% of you're tire diameter.
The vertical seperation of upper and lower links at you're frame mounts should be half of the separation at the axle meaning 1/8 of your tire diameter.
Upper links should be level to the ground at ride height and roughly 70% of the length of your lower links from a horizontal perspective. Meaning if your standing directly to the side of your vehicle, the distance from the center of the bolt through the rear heim to the center of the bolt through the front heim should be 70% of the length from center bolt to center bolt of lower links. (This is not a measurement of the link distance, it purely a measurement from a horizontal view on the X axis.)
Upper triangulation needs to be as close 45 degrees as possible.. meaning if you're standing behind the axle the left upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the left and the right upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the right of the center line.
Lastly the lower links need to triangulate in from the axle mount to the frame mount. The tricky part here is that the amount of lower link triangulation will define you're vehicles anti squat meaning it's tendency to have or not have body roll in off camber situations. Basically lesser triangulation in the lower links meaning a link that points more towards the frame rail instead of pointing to the center of the vehicle creates more anti squat. More anti squat creates a more stable feeling or stance when your sideways on a hill but the lesser the lowers are triangulated, the more the axle will walk in towards the center of the vehicle as your suspension drops out. I prefer lesser triangulation in my lowers because I like to feel stable and planted. Big Sam came by the shop when I was setting up my rear links and when he saw where I was planning to set my lowers he said yep you're dead on, he mentioned that his main reason for stopping by was to make sure I wasn't planning to triangulate my lowers a whole bunch. My lowers do bump the rocks from time to time but that hasn't bothered me or cause any problems at all. Overall I couldn't be happier with how my setup performs. Here's a few pics of my rear links when I got finished.

Now this is a good post, I have been reading about the 4 links and the different opinions about how to set them up. Thx for taking the time to explain the differences on where/how the lower control arm chassis end mount location affects side ways lean!!

Crawl Works · Oct 9, 2014

al1tonyota said:
Old school I like it make a mount off of the top of the u bolt plate and run a link from there to the fixed leaf spring mount! will semi work like a 4 link! Keep your u bolts tight! If you use left and right heims you can preload the leaf pack a little also!

This... It works, I ran nearly the same setup that you are running and this flat out works.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ingersoll113 · Oct 9, 2014

I wonder if this anti wrap would work on right front of a YJ with shackle reversal?
Run the rod to the front.
I think it would but want some opinions if possible. Thanks.