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Boat project advice.

toyota01

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
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116
I picked up a cheap 2002 Moomba outback the other day to tinker with. It is in pretty rough shape, interior is shot and block is cracked. It has the indmar assault vortec Tbi 5.7l 350. I have been reading trying to find out what the difference is between a marine 350 vortec vs standard 350 vortec? The only reliable info I have found is brass freeze plugs, cam profile, and head gaskets. Is there anything else? I'm curious if I can get a short block out of something and put all the boat stuff on it and be good to go? Any info is much appreciated.

Also looking for reasonable/ quality upholstery work and minor gel coat repair around chatt/ Cleveland,Tn area.
 

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You are on track about the motor, I have built a couple for boats, and have used non marine blocks, brass freeze plugs, order a marine gasket set. The only difference is in the head gaskets, marine uses stainless steel to keep from rusting. And you can use any cam, but keep it kinda small, a lot of overlap can suck water back into the cylinder.
 
Re: Boat project advice.

Boy it's a shame to see how people treat boats isn't it?

Then after they neglect them for years they want all the money they ever put into them. Hopefully you got a fair deal for that litter box.

On a great note, I bought an equally gorgeous turd with all the same issues.

I swapped in a non marine motor. Nothing upgraded for marine use. I took care of upholstery work by trading out work with an interior guy.

Repaired flooring myself.

Then I did all of my own hull repairs. I used a mid grade body filler so it would finish smooth. Nothing fancy just some pin stripe removal, all of the original vinyl had to be sanded down past the gel coat. 600-800-1000. Took me 2 days off of work

Otherwise any wrap or paint work you do will show 100% through the new vinyl.

Then I wrapped it. Forget paint and gel coat. Every guy that knows how to paint boats ain't gonna cut you any deals. The guys that cut deals for painting boats, don't know how to paint and seal boats.

I don't ever run salt water so using a non marine motor could be a major issue if you do. Otherwise I wouldn't even worry about it.

Every winter I fill the block with straight antifreeze. Then in the summer that antifreeze runs through the pump and manifolds. I dont have any signs of abnormal corrosion.

She's coming into her 4th season. Ole girl has been an excellent family boat.

Have fun with your project. If you can do all of the work yourself, you can get all of your money back plus a little bit.

Plus if you put in a new floor and build a couple ballast tanks between the stringers underneath that new floor. Adding about
1k-lbs, it'll throw a wake big enough to surf on.

That's what all the cool kids want these days. Lol

Have fun man. Love it
 
I agree ^^^^ with everything thing but the Ballast, I not a cool kid though, I am an Old Fart and like a flat wake.
 

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Well that year Moomba won't have wood so he should be solid on the floor and stringers.

Motor, you have a lot of options, but a simple marine block isn't hard to build. It's the accessories you have to MARINE GRADE. Carb, Alternator, starter, new water pump and raw water pump, etc. Those cannot be automotive take-offs due to gas fumes, and the Kaboom factor.

If your block is cracked, be sure to check your manifolds as well.

As for your interior I use : Tullahoma Seat Cover (339 West Lincoln St. Tullahoma). Their shop may look like ****, but it's the best vinyl guy I've used in many years and many various boat repairs. I will gladly drive my boat back up there if it needs more anytime soon. I have very specific needs when I redo my boats. They go back to looking original, and this guy nailed it. You can't tell my old cushions from my new ones. They are friggin perfect.
 
zukimaster said:
You are on track about the motor, I have built a couple for boats, and have used non marine blocks, brass freeze plugs, order a marine gasket set. The only difference is in the head gaskets, marine uses stainless steel to keep from rusting. And you can use any cam, but keep it kinda small, a lot of overlap can suck water back into the cylinder.

THIS^^^^

You can order the original vinyl from Moomba by the yard and have an upholsterer recover the seats. Don't skimp on the vinyl. That boat should not have wood so there should be no rot. The Gel looks like it could be saved.
 
Re: Boat project advice.

LightBnDr said:
Boy it's a shame to see how people treat boats isn't it?

Then after they neglect them for years they want all the money they ever put into them. Hopefully you got a fair deal for that litter box.

On a great note, I bought an equally gorgeous turd with all the same issues.

I swapped in a non marine motor. Nothing upgraded for marine use. I took care of upholstery work by trading out work with an interior guy.

Repaired flooring myself.

Then I did all of my own hull repairs. I used a mid grade body filler so it would finish smooth. Nothing fancy just some pin stripe removal, all of the original vinyl had to be sanded down past the gel coat. 600-800-1000. Took me 2 days off of work

Otherwise any wrap or paint work you do will show 100% through the new vinyl.

Then I wrapped it. Forget paint and gel coat. Every guy that knows how to paint boats ain't gonna cut you any deals. The guys that cut deals for painting boats, don't know how to paint and seal boats.

I don't ever run salt water so using a non marine motor could be a major issue if you do. Otherwise I wouldn't even worry about it.

Every winter I fill the block with straight antifreeze. Then in the summer that antifreeze runs through the pump and manifolds. I dont have any signs of abnormal corrosion.

She's coming into her 4th season. Ole girl has been an excellent family boat.

Have fun with your project. If you can do all of the work yourself, you can get all of your money back plus a little bit.

Plus if you put in a new floor and build a couple ballast tanks between the stringers underneath that new floor. Adding about
1k-lbs, it'll throw a wake big enough to surf on.

That's what all the cool kids want these days. Lol

Have fun man. Love it
You ant kidding. Its a one owner boat rich kid/ dads money bought it straight of highschool. I recon he moved to komiefornia for a few years and let family use it and came back to it looking like this.
The floors from what i can tell are all fiberglass. I really like the look/grip of the seadeck type material for the floor, but its a little pricey and im worried about the little ones falling down on it.
The spots I would like to fix on the hull are some small chips/spider webbing. I wasn't sure if it would cost more to wrap or fix the spots?
Only thing I have against wrapping it is I like a clean factory look.
I can't surf or wakeboard worth a crap so kneeboard and tubing it is.
 
customcj7 said:
Well that year Moomba won't have wood so he should be solid on the floor and stringers.

Motor, you have a lot of options, but a simple marine block isn't hard to build. It's the accessories you have to MARINE GRADE. Carb, Alternator, starter, new water pump and raw water pump, etc. Those cannot be automotive take-offs due to gas fumes, and the Kaboom factor.

If your block is cracked, be sure to check your manifolds as well.

As for your interior I use : Tullahoma Seat Cover (339 West Lincoln St. Tullahoma). Their shop may look like ****, but it's the best vinyl guy I've used in many years and many various boat repairs. I will gladly drive my boat back up there if it needs more anytime soon. I have very specific needs when I redo my boats. They go back to looking original, and this guy nailed it. You can't tell my old cushions from my new ones. They are friggin perfect.
I havent tore into the motor yet but one manifold is busted. Im going to check that upholstery shop out. I like the factory look,only changes will be minor color and stitching. Thanks for the info
 
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