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Parking brake

Eddyj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
6,589
Location
Birmingham
So a FIF of mine ended up in a bad situation that could have been avoided by having a working parking brake. So I've been looking at options. The most interesting is using a Tesla parking brake caliper that uses 12v to set and release, but not actually hold.

then I found this.

a
 
So the Wilwood kit is expensive but it looks like the Tesla calipers can be found cheap used.
 
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I use a Parker 3 way valve plumbed in to back brake line. Push brake petal turn valve and back brakes are locked. Valve was like $40?? Offroad connection
 
That is exactly how all us RZR peeps have done it. Many different kits out there but all of them simply hold brake peddle down. I'm in process of building one for my buggy. All 4 wheels are braked.

The one I have on my RZR has 2 notches/settings. Light pressure for when you trailer, a harder setting for when you on the trail. I think it's a simple answer for general trail use to take pressure off park paw in trans. Once brake is set, then put trans in park.

Open to thoughts??? Good idea or not???
 
the holding the brake pedal is a good idea, the only caveat being that whatever system that is employed to hold the brake pedal cannot activate while the vehicle is in operation. My sons little offroad go kart has a mechanical parking brake system that I had to remove just for that reason. It would actuate due to the vehicle bouncing and cause the brakes to apply while he was driving. Not dangerous for the slow speeds or terrain he is on but it could be a whole different story for a trail rig trying to negotiate something sketchy.
 
I've got a mico lever lock in my jeep. Been running that for my parking brake since I swapped in d44s, so 16-17 years now. It basically holds the pedal down, but only on the rear axle. Works great. I've had it hold pressure for months at a time at various points over the years. They are a bit more expensive now than when I bought mine.
 
I've got an inline hydraulic valve plumbed into my rear brake circuit.
Got it from Mcmaster for $40. Mounted so I can activate it with my left foot while standing on pedal with my right.
Rated to 7000 psi.
Not elegant, but works really good...
 
I use an E-Stopp in my classic cars. It uses 12V to operate a linear actuator. Could be custom mounted about anywhere. It would be a good option if you have a rear caliper that already had a provision for an ebrake. Going to run $600 plus with ebrake cables.


If you don't have a rear caliper that has an ebrake provision then I like the line lock that others have suggested. It will also be about 1/10th the cost. Not as fancy but practical. Try the park-lok hydraulic parking brake.

 
I bought that park-lok and mounted at right under my seat for easy use. I have yet to get the thing to work properly. If I push brake pedal down, hold in park-lok button then release brakes, it won't stay engaged. I does hold pressure if I hold button in but bleeds off in a matter of seconds. I usually gravity feed my brakes so I bought one of those fancy might vac knock offs, got no bubbles but still no go on button. I'll keep monkying with it but about given up. I'm looking at other options as well.
 

Link to valve I used. Plumbed inline in rear circuit after the proportioning valve.
Holds my heavy junk really well even on hills.
I've used the manual line locks before and 3 out of 3 leaked...
Never fooled with the electric ones. I didn't like the idea of a solenoid failing releasing my P brake.
I still try to park up against the bank or a tree/rock etc when on steeper terrain if possible.
 
Mine has the patened @TBItoy parking brake mod....

Lots of vehicles have electric rear calipers now. I would love to make one from a newer f150 work on a full float axle. Brennan Metcaf has a bracket work for early dana 44's

 
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Any other options been figured out? I'd prefer a rotor mounted option but with the older chevy rotors, I feel I am going to be **** out of luck
 
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