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$5K Budget Build XJ or ZJ?

BustedKnucklefilms

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Aug 24, 2009
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We are looking at doing a Cheap Jeep Build Off. The question is what would be the better platform to start off with an XJ or a ZJ?
What years are the best. Trying to make the most capable crawler for under $5k.
 
I'm gonna say xj simply because the aftermarket support is there. Just look at how many you see on the trails compared to zj's.
 
Also, year wise I don't think it makes a huge difference. But newer ones are less likely to be rusted out and should therefore allow more of the budget to go towards upgrades rather than just getting back to where it should be. Additionally, if you can find a pair of 5 speed xj's, that would be pretty cool too. Bonus points for 2 door versions.
 
I like a ZJ for their price and being linked F&R
. I figure I will spend $1k to purchase the Jeep. ZJs are cheaper than XJs.

ZJ Long Arm kit - $2k linked front and rear
XJ Long Arm Kit- $1500 leaf springs in the rear

DIY beadlocks on steel wheels and some 35s
Weld Rear Axle, lunch box locker or weld the front.

$5k gets gone fast!
 
@BustedKnucklefilms definitely lunchbox locker up front. That poor axle needs all the help it can get.

Zj comes with a LP front 30. Probably cv shafts.
Xj comes with a hp front and the 96's had the d44 sized joints.

That said, do a real cheap, junkyard build. Find a v8 zj, junkyard swap a hp30 into it out of a Cherokee. They're at every junkyard ever. Most v8 zj's even had a d44a in the rear. So that's a plus. Do a hack and tap sye kit. And then y'all already had the rest of the plan right.
 
I wouldn't worry much about a v8 zj vs a 6cyl zj/xj.

Either one will absolutely destroy the stock axles.

Is the "build" going to consist of all/mostly bolt on mods that someone with no fab tools could accomplish?
 
My vote is XJ but I'm biased.
I'd look for a 91- 99. These are all HO with the 4.0, AW4, HP 30 & look for a 8.25, the will have a flat lip on the bottom.
You can find jy axle shaft spares for $30 each & they are pretty beefy for what they are. Word of advice, tack the caps on. That's my only complaint with the front shafts. Late 95 & up have the larger 297 u joints & I believe the 29 spline 8.25.

The ZJ has a far less durable trans, LP 30 & rear 35 or 5% better 44a, the "a" stands for aluminum center section.
If you get a ZJ, I get a 94-98 with the 4.0 it will have rear discs that you can put on the next jy axle you swap in WHEN the stock unit breaks. Throw in a HP 30 & AW4 from a XJ & rock on, pun intended.
I'd put a 95ish Explorer 8.8 in. It has 31 splinrs & discs. Hard to kill. I've been trying to with mine for 5 years now, welded & on 35s.
 
Is the "build" going to consist of all/mostly bolt on mods that someone with no fab tools could accomplish?

We plan to do mostly bolt on with some light fabwork.

I think since my competition is the Jeep guru that he should do the ZJ and I will build the XJ.

This is what I have in mind for the $5k budget. (We can also sell parts off the vehicle to add to our budget)
98-99 XJ with 4.0HO and Auto (factory tow package had lower gears?)
run 8.25 or swap in 8.8
Maybe swap in front axles from a 4cyl for the lower gears?
Tack ujoint caps on front axle or swap to chromos if budget allows?
SYE
4.5" Long Arm Kit
Fender Trimming
DIY Steel Beadlocks and 35s
Some fabbed up bracing and rock protection
Winch
 
I think with some home brew fab using generic tabs/brackets you could put a matching pair of 05+ Superduty axles with 37s on stock 17" wheels. That'll keep it narrow and help with steering.

Use the stock radius arm mounts and leaf springs rear.

a lunchbox locker for a Dana 60 costs the same as a Dana 30.

the "hidden" costs of axle swaps is what eats up most of a budget, because people will do dumb **** like ordering $500 custom brake lines or $1500 driveshafts for a trail beater
 
ZJ V8 and linked in the rear is nice but their transmission flat out sucks and watch out for the awd t case too. 98 and 99 are the sweet years for XJs but any 91 to 99 will do. Try and find one with an 8.25 rear if you aren't swapping axles and those went from 27 to 29 spline mid year 96.
 
I'd rather wheel stock axles on 35s than tons of 37s for the clearance.

True.

An almost stock xj/zj with lockers and skinny 32s/33s is pretty hard to beat for a basic trail rig. Of course that's not really much of a "build"

IMO just doing a long arm kit and 35s aren't a big performance gain for the $$ invested. Especially since you really need some lower gear options and stronger axles (or $$ axle mods) to really take advantage of the bigger tires and potential flex.
 
@TBItoy that's why I recommended the v8 zj. To make up for the lack of gears and bigger tires.

Y'all aren't worried long term, so don't worry about the trans. As long as it has 4 lo in the t case, you're fine there too.

Xj's will be tougher
V8 zj will have more power.

I think an 8.8 rear. Hp 30 front. Long arm kit. 35's and beadlocks. Tac your u joint caps. And zj v8 tierod and drag link. Sye(that reminds me, if you sye a xj, the stock Xj front cv shaft will bolt into place. So no need to order a custom shaft. The zj you have to order or make your own).

Do that combo on either rig and you're good to go.
 
Definitely an XJ. Skip the longarm setup and just piece together a cheap 4" short arm lift buying used parts, trim the fenders and run some 33's. Toss a lunchbox locker in the front and weld the 8.25 rear. Build it for way less than $5k, can probably build 2 fun, capable XJ's for $5k.
 
I have friends with a few beater ZJ's that are Lincoln locked with 33's and they just amaze me how well they do off-road. Plus cheap V8 is cool factor. Either way both XJ and ZJ can be very capable for pennys on the dollar. Just bust out the sawzall to make everything fit.
 
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