87 toyota 4x4 buildup

[Orangecrush87]

1987 toyota 4x4 build up currently bone stock with a 3 inch body lift

lots of stuff to do your typical time waste of a build everything from gears to dual cases to links you name it first off will be trans rebuild paint and solid axle

this is what i started with

 

[Orangecrush87]

it wouldnt let me post all the pictures of the truck and paint process because i already posted em somewheres already on the forum its nothing fancy though its just rattle can but for rustoleum high gloss orange she spreaded out nice


continued

 

[Orangecrush87]

next came teh trans rebuild its a g52 5 speed (i know junk tranny but didnt have the cash for a w56)

picture one is the first thing you will see when tearring into a g52 5 speed it is the input shaft (on top which is the same shaft as your spead gears from what i understand) and on bottom is called a counter shaft

picture 5 is all of it set up with the first part torn off up to the intermediate plate

the bearring which is in peices is the first bearring which is on the counter shaft hense why the countershaft end is torn up that you can see in picture 1

the picture of the shaft laying on the table (picture 4) is my new countershaft and the one with all the gears on it is (picture 3 ) is called the speed shaft which is 1-4th gear and synchroe rings (from what i understand so far) oh well its done and it shifts so guess im close enough lol

this was my very first time ever tearring into a transmission and it was pretty easy just have to nut up and decide to tear into it to see how stuff works really

 

[Orangecrush87]

as of today i started playing with my friends torch and figured hey lets cut off the front end and yard it out of there


nothing is welded on yet just mocked up for the moment. My frame currently sits clean on all brackets and i have grinding to do, but all the shocks and arm supports and everything like that is blown off. my sleeves arent in the frame either also

 

[Orangecrush87]

nothing really accomplished after that i do have some goodies though that are going on the truck very soon

529 ring and pinion with gear install (still need a set for rear axle atm) this is a trail gear product if anyone is curious where to get them at for 139 dollars (napa wanted to charge me 600 front and rear for just the gears for both axles)

shock hoops and hanger frame jigs (the sas stuff) also trail gear product think its 150 all together

and a cheap set of gauges off summit racing 19 bucks 24 shipped with all the chrome stuff (my gauge cluster is screwed on all the gauges so i figured mechanical is easier to go) link can be found right here for anyone that is curious or wants to check them out http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2953/ i ordered that one but they gave me the 45 dollar ones that are teh same gauges just happent o be chrome instead for some reason


thats currently everything i have done so far ill update if i remember to take more pictures later on down teh road

 

[Orangecrush87]

well did a little bit of work today and yesturday

picture one is outside of frame all cleaned up (old brackets are removed just didnt take the new picture)

still to do is weld in my frame tubes for my shackles weld on my front cross member and replate the hell out of my motor mounts (passenger side i got a little torch crazy and didnt realize i blew it off before it was to late)

also started to set up my front 529s ( i have it together now but didnt know what the backlash was suppose to be. i set it to 11thousandths cause tahts what the 410s were when i pulled them. i think they will be fine im currently tryin to get the right mesh between the pinion and the ring gear atm playing the spanner wrench game.

 

[zukkev]

Just an FYI...Backlash on toy diff's is .006"-.010"; personally I try and set them to the tight end so as to minimize shock, especially with new 5:29's...Also, if the pinion isn't deep enough, or too deep, you will never get the gears to mesh properly using the carrier brng spanner nuts no matter what you do....
also, if you haven't burned in the shackle mounts on the frame yet, looks like I 'd move them forward if that's the unloaded angle your shackles sit at...especially if there's no axle attached to the leaves, weighting them down!:yikes: Hope this all helps!:redneck:

 

[Orangecrush87]

yeah i havent been sure on the shackle angel main reason why, i havent burned anything in atm. I think if i was to fix shackle angel sense its pretty hogged out atm under the cab mount i would have to move the front hanger back a little bit. Heres a picture with the bushing and sleeves in the frame what do you guys think (sense frame is hogged out under cab it seems im thinking of plating the hole outside under the frame its not bad but it is theres like a 1/4inch gap on one part of my frame sleave) Not understanding why my shackle angel is sketchy though, from what it looks like its in the same spot as all the other 87 sas trucks of direct middle of cab mount. Any more input would be appreciated. dont know if it matters but the leafsprings are 4 inch pro comp springs from what the numbers say and they are used not sure if it matters or not.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

All the other people that responded are using different springs that are longer and thier tube placement is irrelevant to your choice of parts.

If your are using a PRO DUMP spring and move the tubes forward to get more angle it will kill those springs fast.

With a crappy spring like a procomp the shackle needs to be as close to strait up and down to make the spring last longer. If it is angled back the extra leverage it has will pull the procomps flat in just a few runs.

Guys here will tell you to angle them back more so it will flex more. It will flex a LITTLE more but not last long.

My roomate runs a procomp with the shackles strait up with weight on them and it woks fine and has lasted a year aswell.

Someday when you move up from procomps to a longer spring you will be glad you left the shackle right where it is.

Weld it up and wheel it. Dont worry about the sleeves. They are trapped in the frame and will never go anywhere. The beam locates the axle and takes the abuse, the shackles only see half the weight the spring is holding up and doesnt get any front to rear stress like a front beam does. If you can confidently weld a 1/4 inch gap then getter done.

And remember alot of guys can fab nice stuff, but it doesnt mean they have any realworld experience if they dont wheel and test different stuff. Anyone can weld and read, but making **** work good is a different world.

I have SASed about 40 trucks, not built one for me and one for my buddy in my carport.:beer:

 

[Orangecrush87]

finally some more feedback! yay! lol I was thinking it was the spring myself, i think i may go see if i can steal toyota coreys old springs real fast to check to see if its the same scenario for those. Im not comfy welding my stuff up. I can make welds look pretty but have no gap experience, so im currently looking for someone to throw a few beads on the pile for me. When it comes to holding my whole front end on something just tells me not to weld it, let someone else do it that i know has done it before ill trust my stuff for sliders and bumpers though any day of the week just not this big of a project cause i cant afford a failure.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

what if you never welded the sleeves? will they fall off? :corn:

 

[Orangecrush87]

lol sleeves will be welded also of corse as with the spring hanger just not by me. Theres a few people around town that do this stuff quiet a bit that i figure ill bribe when i line up a welder to burn everything in. Thanks again for the feedback on the springs! :awesomework:

 

[megatoy66]

Your truck is looking great! If you need any trail gear parts let me know, I live near olympia.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

what if you never welded the sleeves? will they fall off? :corn:

lol sleeves will be welded also of corse as with the spring hanger just not by me. Theres a few people around town that do this stuff quiet a bit that i figure ill bribe when i line up a welder to burn everything in. Thanks again for the feedback on the springs! :awesomework:

my question was serious. Where can they go? even if not welded in. They are trapped. (of course welded before finnish product)

I have had guys bring me trucks not welded before. They cant afford a complete SAS and can do most themselves but cant weld too good. So I tell them locate all parts, just assemble it, tack the beam, put it on the trailer and bring it over for some good welding and they are done after that.

Most good muffler shops will burn in good welds for cheap too. The fit and location and clean out takes the most time/money. welding it all is easy and cheap.:beer:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Your truck is looking great! If you need any trail gear parts let me know, I live near olympia.

who SASed both your tacomas?

 

[83toyota]

All the other people that responded are using different springs that are longer and thier tube placement is irrelevant to your choice of parts.

If your are using a PRO DUMP spring and move the tubes forward to get more angle it will kill those springs fast.

With a crappy spring like a procomp the shackle needs to be as close to strait up and down to make the spring last longer. If it is angled back the extra leverage it has will pull the procomps flat in just a few runs.

Guys here will tell you to angle them back more so it will flex more. It will flex a LITTLE more but not last long.

My roomate runs a procomp with the shackles strait up with weight on them and it woks fine and has lasted a year aswell.

Someday when you move up from procomps to a longer spring you will be glad you left the shackle right where it is.

Weld it up and wheel it. Dont worry about the sleeves. They are trapped in the frame and will never go anywhere. The beam locates the axle and takes the abuse, the shackles only see half the weight the spring is holding up and doesnt get any front to rear stress like a front beam does. If you can confidently weld a 1/4 inch gap then getter done.

And remember alot of guys can fab nice stuff, but it doesnt mean they have any realworld experience if they dont wheel and test different stuff. Anyone can weld and read, but making **** work good is a different world.

I have SASed about 40 trucks, not built one for me and one for my buddy in my carport.:beer:

i think mine was no.24 of 42:redneck:

 

[Orangecrush87]

Your truck is looking great! If you need any trail gear parts let me know, I live near olympia.

if i knew that i would have just ordered the ubolt from you instead of ordering last week from trail gear lol can you ship stuff to my house from your location if i pay with my debit ?

 

[Orangecrush87]

my question was serious. Where can they go? even if not welded in. They are trapped. (of course welded before finnish product)

I have had guys bring me trucks not welded before. They cant afford a complete SAS and can do most themselves but cant weld too good. So I tell them locate all parts, just assemble it, tack the beam, put it on the trailer and bring it over for some good welding and they are done after that.

Most good muffler shops will burn in good welds for cheap too. The fit and location and clean out takes the most time/money. welding it all is easy and cheap.:beer:

i guess that makes sense lol although i dont have access to a welder here or a trailer and truck to drag said trailer with (my daily is an 86 2 wheel drive) i might be able to bribe the muffler shop guy in town to swing over on his way home and do some burning in for me i didnt even think of that thx again!

 

[megatoy66]

if i knew that i would have just ordered the ubolt from you instead of ordering last week from trail gear lol can you ship stuff to my house from your location if i pay with my debit ?

Sorry cash only........

 

[megatoy66]

who SASed both your tacomas?

You did of course. :beer: