Is there anyone on here who is a honda tech my wife has decided to get a gas saver to drive to work and run around in and it is between two cars that are both super clean one is 2008 4cyl with 100k for 6grand and the other is 2010 v6 with 200k for 6grand if you were buying just based off mileage and motor which gets your vote
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Anyone a Honda Tech
- Thread starter jccarter1
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money_pit_yj
Well-Known Member
I have no input but I'm fixing to buy a 2005 hybrid with bad batteries and 230k miles. If I drive it 135 days I have paid for it and am money ahead.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
I DD a '08 Civic 4-cyl, it's got ~110k and I've had zero issues with it. And I do not take good care of it. I may jinx myself and it blow up tomorrow, but I've been happy with it. I drive about 25 minutes one way for work, it's mostly 4-lane highway but with several traffic lights, I average 28-30 MPG.
I can't confirm 100%, but a friend that used to be a Honda tech told me the motor in those year Civics were considered zero maintenance motors. They have a timing chain rather than belt, so no need to worry about replacing it at 100k or whatever intervals.
I can't confirm 100%, but a friend that used to be a Honda tech told me the motor in those year Civics were considered zero maintenance motors. They have a timing chain rather than belt, so no need to worry about replacing it at 100k or whatever intervals.
tonybolton
Bypass Crawler
Re: Re: Anyone a Honda Tech
If it were me I would just get the one with less miles( probably has nicer interior to)... That means everything else is newer on the car and as for reliability... It's a Honda.
I'm not at Honda tech...jccarter1 said:
If it were me I would just get the one with less miles( probably has nicer interior to)... That means everything else is newer on the car and as for reliability... It's a Honda.
MoparMan
Well-Known Member
I can't really help very much. Not sure if the V6 in the cars are similar to the V6 in the Pilots, but a buddy of mine has had trouble with his wife's V6 Pilot fouling plugs because of the cylinder deactivation.
BUG-E J
Don't get #labroned
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I was shop foreman at the local honda dealer and master tech for 10 years. I just left recently. The 08-12 accord has oil consumption problems. If they arent burning 3 quarts of oil every 500 miles they are tanks. I prefer the 4 cylinder. The v6 had trans issues and a timing belt. The civics in those years are probably the best cars ever built. Do not buy a honda hybrid. The batteries and dc to dc invertors are junk.
Stay away from anything with the CVT transmission. We had a 13 model with the CVT trans , biggest piece of **** ever. I would get in it to go to work start up, let sit and run for a min, put it in reverse nothing, you could red line it and it wouldn't move. In drive it would jerk and go on. I thought it was slipping, so I go to check fluid level, have to take it to dealer because it doesn't have a ****ing dip stick just a plug. Dealer said all was normal. I even drove a brand new 16 model it did the same crap. I got lucky a hail storm totaled it.
BUG-E J
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There is a 12 mm bolt you remove right below the big fill plug and you put fluid in it untill it comes out the hole. My ol ladies 13 has a manual 6 speed and has been the best vehicle i have ever owned. Original brakes still and had over 100k on it. 0 problems so far
civicmindedex79
Well-Known Member
I own a couple to a few Civics all older than you are looking at but I would stick with the 4 cyl from my personal experience. My 2002 model car has 180k or so and still gets 38 mpg easily. Only item I really stress in my opinion is make sure the timing belt and water pump is changed no more than 150k miles. Cheap insurance to keep it running good.
HotwheelsYJ
Well-Known Member
No clue on the V6 model but my GF has an 08 Accord with the 4 banger & just over 200k on it. She picked it up about 6 months ago for $3000 because the steering pump was whining & leaking fluid. Turned out the hose was loose, i tightened it up & topped it off. I wouldn't be afraid to take off anywhere in it.
The only issue it has is the clearcoat on the hood & trunk lid looks like ****. Going to wetsand it & respray sometime soon.
The only issue it has is the clearcoat on the hood & trunk lid looks like ****. Going to wetsand it & respray sometime soon.
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
Clint we bought a 2010 Accord V6 new. They are notorious for burning oil. I'm talking like a quart a week. It was so bad it was fouling plugs. Then they wouldn't stand behind their product. We kept fighting with the dealer. They would bring it in for a oil consumption test. They would check it for 7 days. They said it only drops half way down between the fill and full mark then its within their standards. Thats bullshit cause who checks the oil every week in a new car. There was a few years there where the v6 engines were ****. If i remember correctly there was a large class action lawsuit. I will never buy a Honda again especially from Decatur Honda.
tonybolton
Bypass Crawler
The TSB states that is caused by owner mis-operation.
---Not letting vehicle warm up / beating on when cold
---Using subpar gasoline
....jus sayin'.....
The dealership prolly knew you were trying to skate them.
---Not letting vehicle warm up / beating on when cold
---Using subpar gasoline
....jus sayin'.....
The dealership prolly knew you were trying to skate them.
BUG-E J
Don't get #labroned
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Actually the revised version allows ring replacement for free if it burns more than a quart every 1500 miles. If it continues to burn oil after that you get a free short block. I had a few good customers that got the short blocks first. They still burned oil. Some do some dont. Honda says the ring design allows the rings to "float" and align the gaps. Thats horse ****. I have done probably a thousand of them. The only cylinders that do it are the ones the pcm can drop off for fuel mileage. The newer hondas dont have an egr the pcm can adjust valve overlap to reburn exhaust gasses. The pistons that are causing the problem will look like the inside of an egr cooler. The ones that dont burn oil will look brand new. The 13 up doesnt do it and the pistons have an odd lip on them above the compression ring. I think they added that too the pistons to try and keep them from allowing the egr sludge to blow by the rings slighlty and accumulate in the ring grooves.tonybolton said:
BUG-E J
Don't get #labroned
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And the people i did side work for i had them changing their oil every 4500 miles. They never had problems. The ones we saw the most problems out of were going till it got down to 0% on the oil life which under some conditions can go over 10k.
tonybolton
Bypass Crawler
(((( I was jus trying to rile KMC up a lil 
)))
)))
tonybolton
Bypass Crawler
BUG-E J said:
Oh I know...I looked it up, but then put a "YOU ****ED IT UP YOURSELF YOU IDIOT!!!" spin on in. I just threw a lil #safespace and #politicallycorrect sauce on it.
TacomaJD
I LIKE CHEAP STUFF.....
Re:
I'd buy Toyota or Chevy cars if you want a little to no maintenance car. Corolla has been named the most reliable car ever made before. Camrys are sweet too for a commuter.
I've been extremely happy with my 2010 Chevy Malibu LTZ 2.4L ecotec 4 cyl. Got all bells and whistles, had 113k miles when I bought it last year, nearly 130k on it now. Extremely tight driving and smooth riding. 25mpg. Gave $6k for it. You can find them for close to that or just a little more with less miles.
I went through this same debate when we had that wreck last year and totalled my little Saturn L200 I had as a commuter car. I looked and looked and looked, all makes and models, read countless forum posts of problems and reviews. Pretty much was only comfortable with buying GM or Toyota....apples to apples, it seems the GM cars had more bells and whistles than the Toyotas, as they are rather plain. Found a good deal on my car so I pulled trigger. My old Saturn (GM) was 2002 model with 2.2L Ecotec 4 cyl with 185k miles and was mechanically perfect, owned for 6 yrs... so that combo left a good impression on me when I was shopping again.
Good luck to you.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I'd buy Toyota or Chevy cars if you want a little to no maintenance car. Corolla has been named the most reliable car ever made before. Camrys are sweet too for a commuter.
I've been extremely happy with my 2010 Chevy Malibu LTZ 2.4L ecotec 4 cyl. Got all bells and whistles, had 113k miles when I bought it last year, nearly 130k on it now. Extremely tight driving and smooth riding. 25mpg. Gave $6k for it. You can find them for close to that or just a little more with less miles.
I went through this same debate when we had that wreck last year and totalled my little Saturn L200 I had as a commuter car. I looked and looked and looked, all makes and models, read countless forum posts of problems and reviews. Pretty much was only comfortable with buying GM or Toyota....apples to apples, it seems the GM cars had more bells and whistles than the Toyotas, as they are rather plain. Found a good deal on my car so I pulled trigger. My old Saturn (GM) was 2002 model with 2.2L Ecotec 4 cyl with 185k miles and was mechanically perfect, owned for 6 yrs... so that combo left a good impression on me when I was shopping again.
Good luck to you.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
