Easy Out Fun

Jokenring · Mar 4, 2011

Any good way of getting the tip of an easy out, out of a stud? The stud broke about a quarter of the way down the hole in an exhaust manifold. Drilled the hole lubed it for a few days with liquid wrench, little pressure, little more pressure, heat on the manifold, little more pressure and plink.

I've tried tapping the edges of the tip to try and spin it back the other way, drill bit just slides off, center punch just gets the tip flattened.

What's next? Just **** it and JB weld a new stud in? :redneck: Or new manifold? How do the machine shops do it?

This is on an inline six if anyone cares.

Thanks

ain'tstuckjustresting · Mar 4, 2011

If it isn't too wedged in you can touch it with an arc welder and stick the rod to it. With some practice you can get them to hold good enough to twist them out.

Also, if your real careful you can use a cutting torch. The easyout will heat up much quicker than the casting. Get it red quick and hit the oxy. After a couple of shots you can clean the rest out with a tap.

Jokenring · Mar 4, 2011

ain'tstuckjustresting said:
If it isn't too wedged in you can touch it with an arc welder and stick the rod to it. With some practice you can get them to hold good enough to twist them out.

Also, if your real careful you can use a cutting torch. The easyout will heat up much quicker than the casting. Get it red quick and hit the oxy. After a couple of shots you can clean the rest out with a tap.

I was thinking about blasting it with the torch. I'll give that a shot. Thanks.

What about a plasma? Anyone done that?

stealthrunner1 · Mar 4, 2011

My vote is an EDM machine...basicly is part drill press part arc welder and i personally have removed broken studs/ easy outs in aluminum and only had to chase the threads lightly and install another stud/bolt...when i worked at action machine they had one!!!!:awesomework:

Jokenring · Mar 4, 2011

stealthrunner said:
My vote is an EDM machine...basicly is part drill press part arc welder and i personally have removed broken studs/ easy outs in aluminum and only had to chase the threads lightly and install another stud/bolt...when i worked at action machine they had one!!!!:awesomework:

Do you remember about how much that ran?

(Check out my sweet post count.) :FIREdevil:

Bill · Mar 4, 2011

easy outs are bad...
I always use my mig welder, weld a nut to it...I have welded way in the threads with no bad results, sometimes you need a lot of nuts because they will keep breaking off

crash2 · Mar 4, 2011

Bill said:
easy outs are bad...
I always use my mig welder, weld a nut to it...I have welded way in the threads with no bad results, sometimes you need a lot of nuts because they will keep breaking off

I have done the same when you can but Unfortunately thats not always an option(in this case stud is down below the surface on a head) and why I use reversible easy outs.

Unless you have good quality drill bits and go slow and constantly sharpen them your not going to easily get it out. What happens more than not due to the hardness of the easy out is the drill bit will walk to the side of it and not into it. What I have done in the past is use heat to de-temper or physically blow it out of the hole--not an easy process.

Jokenring · Mar 4, 2011

I have good bits, but if I sharpen them, they won't be good bits anymore. I bring the suck at drill bit sharpening.

I think I am going to try the flame hatchet and blow it out.

Bill · Mar 4, 2011

if the blue wrench messes it up at least then you can put a helicoil in there and be done

jeepmauler · Mar 4, 2011

Bill said:
easy outs are bad...
I always use my mig welder, weld a nut to it...I have welded way in the threads with no bad results, sometimes you need a lot of nuts because they will keep breaking off

did this last week on the motor mount for one of our fork lifts. Bolts sheared in the block,motor fell down blah blah. Helper guy backed 2 of the 3 bolts out with a pick....the third wouldn't budge and was at least .25" down in the hole. Took a nut and welded it to the sheared bolt,being "carefull" not to get too much thread. Backed out like a champ.

stealthrunner1 · Mar 4, 2011

Jokenring said:
Do you remember about how much that ran?

(Check out my sweet post count.) :FIREdevil:

When i was doing it first hole was 38.50 each additional hole was about 13.00....:;

Bill · Mar 4, 2011

jeepmauler said:
did this last week on the motor mount for one of our fork lifts. Bolts sheared in the block,motor fell down blah blah. Helper guy backed 2 of the 3 bolts out with a pick....the third wouldn't budge and was at least .25" down in the hole. Took a nut and welded it to the sheared bolt,being "carefull" not to get too much thread. Backed out like a champ.

I have had them where I had to weld a dozen nuts to um...one at a time
:awesomework:

jeepmauler · Mar 4, 2011

Bill said:
I have had them where I had to weld a dozen nuts to um...one at a time
:awesomework:

My helper guy went through 1/2 dozen nuts trying to get one to stick. He was nervous about getting into the threads and getting in trouble(understandable). My position there is a little different so I cranked up the welder and let the gat hum:redneck: Struck it first try and lucked out on not getting too nuch thread if any.

Bill · Mar 4, 2011

jeepmauler said:
My helper guy went through 1/2 dozen nuts trying to get one to stick. He was nervous about getting into the threads and getting in trouble(understandable). My position there is a little different so I cranked up the welder and let the gat hum:redneck: Struck it first try and lucked out on not getting too nuch thread if any.

it works almost every time....and I have done plenty... most people freak out the first few times they try it

chainsaw · Mar 5, 2011

Get a punch long and thin rnough to reach it. Smash it with a hammer, pick out the peices, tap......dont break tap...

Jokenring · Mar 5, 2011

jeepmauler said:
did this last week on the motor mount for one of our fork lifts. Bolts sheared in the block,motor fell down blah blah. Helper guy backed 2 of the 3 bolts out with a pick....the third wouldn't budge and was at least .25" down in the hole. Took a nut and welded it to the sheared bolt,being "carefull" not to get too much thread. Backed out like a champ.

Maybe I'm being dense, but I don't understand how you would weld a nut to a sheared bolt/stud that is sitting a quarter inch down in a hole.

ain'tstuckjustresting · Mar 5, 2011

It's pretty easy when working on a cast piece like a head or block. The weld tends to not stick to the cast as it takes so much longer to heat up. Just need to used a little care. :awesomework:

Binder · Mar 5, 2011

Jokenring said:
Maybe I'm being dense, but I don't understand how you would weld a nut to a sheared bolt/stud that is sitting a quarter inch down in a hole.

You weld through the hole in the nut. Stick the wire down into the broken bolt and weld up to the nut.....
Did several of these on my little car a couple weeks ago when I did the head gasket and the exhaust bolts broke.

The heat from the weld also helps to break loose the bolt which was stuck to begin with.

Jokenring · Mar 5, 2011

Binder said:
You weld through the hole in the nut. Stick the wire down into the broken bolt and weld up to the nut.....
Did several of these on my little car a couple weeks ago when I did the head gasket and the exhaust bolts broke.
The heat from the weld also helps to break loose the bolt which was stuck to begin with.

Ahhhhh. I see. Thanks for the description. I couldn't picture what was said and that cleared it up. I might give that a shot. :beer:

crash2 · Mar 5, 2011

Binder said:
You weld through the hole in the nut. Stick the wire down into the broken bolt and weld up to the nut.....
Did several of these on my little car a couple weeks ago when I did the head gasket and the exhaust bolts broke.
The heat from the weld also helps to break loose the bolt which was stuck to begin with.

Why would heat break it loose?