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Help with spring rates on c/o

30th6

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I've never had the right spring rates on my coil overs and I would like some opinions on what I need.
I have a juggy with cucvs tbi 350 th350 205 with 42s that weighs around 4200lbs. I have fox 14s on the front with 16x150s over 14x200s that are to soft. I stay on the bump stops with every bump I hit.
On the rear I have 16s with 16x100 over 18x150s and it's to stiff it's great for hitting ledges but will jar you around when just cruising around.
Any help would be appreciated.

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30th6

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f42d3ed5e94f25a71a1c62213984f6b4.jpg

Here's the fronts c/o the springs seem to light

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TacomaJD

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So on your fronts, you have the long spring on top and the short spring on bottom? That's backwards from the norm. Or was it a typo?
 

tallnate

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30th6 said:
What would it matter the combined rate should be the same

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Because you should run off of the top tender spring until the shock compresses enough that your dual rate slider contacts the stop ring at which point the load transfers to the lower heavier spring. But if you're not running a stop ring then yeah, I guess it makes no difference if you're running the heavy spring up top.
 

TacomaJD

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30th6 said:
What would it matter the combined rate should be the same

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Because you have a longer lighter spring that's easier to compress, instead of a longer heavier spring that's harder to compress. It may not make as much of a difference as I am thinking, but think of it as if you have a 24" softer spring, a 6" heavy spring, **** wouldn't act right. I know that's not a realistic scenario, it was just an example.

Also, as a quick fix, you can always adjust the stop ring farther down on the shock body to catch the heavier spring earlier in the travel, unless you've already ran out of threads to move it any lower due to the shorter lower spring than what's recommended.

Initially, I had 100/200 on the front of my Toyota and exchanged the upper 100# spring for a 150 and it was right then. It was way too soft before, axle truss hitting oil pan on hard hits, etc. (stationary bump stops didn't work too good lol). a 50# heavier spring makes a significant difference, but if it was me (just me) I'd opt for a 225 or 250# lower spring that was 16" and a 14" upper that was 175 or possibly even 200.

Spring rates will vary between similar rigs due to the angles at which they are mounted, but I don't think that's the case here. From that pic, it looks like you've got your preload cranked way down. Looks to me like ya need heavier springs and that valving is not to blame. But hey, I'm still a rookie shock man so my thinking is probably wrong as usual :rolf:
 

TacomaJD

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tallnate said:
Because you should run off of the top tender spring until the shock compresses enough that your dual rate slider contacts the stop ring at which point the load transfers to the lower heavier spring. But if you're not running a stop ring then yeah, I guess it makes no difference if you're running the heavy spring up top.

He's running the heavier spring on bottom and lighter one on top, but the lengths are backwards. Generally, the lower heavy spring is the longer one. Having a lower spring that is 2" longer than shock travel also ensures the dual rate slider never slides too far off the shock body where it can get hung and break all to ****.
 

TacomaJD

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Also, your ass end is light from the looks of your picture, similar to Daniel Dennis' old Sexi Sami buggy that was tube backhalfed, and he went through the same thing with springs that were already considered light in the rear but still had to go lighter. Seems like he ended up with 100 over 100 in the rear.
 

tallnate

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TacomaJD said:
He's running the heavier spring on bottom and lighter one on top, but the lengths are backwards. Generally, the lower heavy spring is the longer one. Having a lower spring that is 2" longer than shock travel also ensures the dual rate slider never slides too far off the shock body where it can get hung and break all to ****.

Ok I gotcha, didn't catch that. But yeah you're right, longer heavier on bottom and shorter tender on top so that the slider doesn't have the option to pass below the body.
 

TacomaJD

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Confirmation, Yes Daniel ended up with 100 over 100 springs on the rear coilovers on his old Sami buggy. If your 100/150 is way too stiff, you could try the 100 over 100 configuration.

And I'm sure it's not, but make sure your dual stop ring isn't adjusted really low and already catching the main spring early now!
 

30th6

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Re:

Ok I had these speced out and ordered these from eor I thought they would be right but I guess not. I'll try to get some different spring rates

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TacomaJD

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Re:

30th6 said:
Ok I had these speced out and ordered these from eor I thought they would be right but I guess not. I'll try to get some different spring rates

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Did you talk to Jimmy or just somebody at EOR? And did you provide corner weights? If no corner weights were involved, it's more of a guessing game. I had no corner weights, sent Jimmy some pics of my rig and specs, and he said he'd start out with 100 over 200, which ended up being too soft. CJ Ryan was working there then, so I called him back and said the 100# upper springs were too light and needed to swap for 150#, so he shipped me 150# springs and I shipped the 100# springs back, no charge other than 1 way shipping on my end.

It's odd that they sent you 16" upper springs and 14" lower springs though, that had to be a mix up on whoever was pulling the springs off the shelf there to fill the order.
 

30th6

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Re:

I talked to jimmy, no corner weights given but I pulled my rig up to eor and they swapped out the rear and it was so stiff it was not driveable.

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TacomaJD

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kmcminn said:
Mine is very similar.

Front- 175/200
Rear- 150/200

30r 90c on valving.

225 psi nitrogen. Rides great and will take a jump pretty good.

So you have 90/30 valving now? What were they before, the standard 50/70?
 

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