I ton LJ "BUSTED BUDGET" build

[Diamond B]

Last fall I broke a small part on my Jeep --- I know that's a surprise

Unfortunately, that small part was the lower ball joint on the passenger side of the my Rubi 44. When it let go, it damaged the lower part of the inner "C" on that side:

After a few weeks of searching and researching, it was determined that the cost of repairing said damage(i.e. replacing the inner c) was going to be more exensive than reaplacing the housing. After more searching and some discussion with the wife and local shop owner, it was decided that unless something changed, that I was going to continue breaking parts with somewhat regularity (especially since I had already broken.replaced, upgrade everything from the TC out and was in the process of repeating the process). So the trigger was pulled on going to one tons. Once that decision was made it was time to strip anything salvageable off the old girl, sell it and start financing the purchase of parts. Pretty much everything from the transfer case out and the frame down came off to be sold.

The LJ sat like this for a few months while we gathered parts, most of which I have now but do not have pics: front HP Kingpin D60, 5.13 with Grizzly Lockers (RCVs in the near future); rear Dana 60 with RCV axles, 5.13 and Grizzly locker, Ruffstuff rear double triangulated 4 link kit, front 3 link kit (mans that a lot of pieces in those kits) and steering arms, new Corbeau Moab front seats and rear cover, 4 x 16" Profender 2" coilovers, and finally 5 x Raceline Monster RT233 Aluminum beadlocks:

The Jeep was moved into the shop last week and we began cutting away unnecessary brackets and dropped the tank. We removed the extra crossmember in the rear of the LJ in order to move the tank backwards to the rear most crossmember to mount it like a TJ. This will give us room to stretch the rear out about 5 inches. For the front, the steering gear box and pump will be removed and sent to West Texas Offroad to be rebuilt and ported for the Redneck Ram hydro assist application. Once we get it back it, we will see how much we can stretch the front with the goal of hitting 110" wheelbase.

 

[Diamond B]

While my skills to assist in the build are pretty limited, I do get to the shop when I can to help grind -- one of the few things I can do. Today I decided to attack my wheels. When I ordered the beadlocks, I thought the insets were painted; when they got here I realized my mistake and went back online to see if I had ordered the wrong wheel. After looking at several sites and many pictures, I realized the ruffed out areas in the insets appeared to be painted because of the darker color of the unpolished aluminum and the shadow. Since I wanted the black contrast I set out today to accomplish it. Starting with the wheel as pictured above, first I masked them up:

Then began the tedious work of cutting out the masking for where I wanted to paint. This was time consuming and I forgot to get any pictures but it involved using an exacto knife to carefully cut away the tape over each of the insets. If you ever want to do this yourself, remember an exacto knife will shave aluminum :rollseyes: so be careful with the use of force. Once I had the masking complete, I rattlecanned a couple coats of Rustoleum self etching primer:

Let dry according to the instructions on the can (about 30 minutes) and top coated with Rustoleum Flat Black Wheel Paint:

Once the paint was dry to the touch, I began removing the tape. I had read that doing so before teh paint was dry to the touch could cause runs and waiting until the paint was fully dry could cause flaking. Once I had the tape off I noticed the imperfections in my masking job. But sinc eth paint was still slightly wet, I was able to use my fingernail to go around the edges of the insets and clean up the lines. I did not want to use the exacto for fear of shaving more aluminum or scratching the fresh paint and make the problem worse.

As you can see in some of the pics, I also did the aluminum rings. I think once I have the tires mounted, the black rings and insets will contrast with the grade 8 bolts and the body color nicely to giving me the look I thought I was ordering.

 

[1tonyj]

Damn Rob u spent way more time on those wheels than I would have lol....but they do look good! ... Im Jealous

 

[Diamond B]

Damn Rob u spent way more time on those wheels than I would have lol....but they do look good! ... Im Jealous

It had been suggested for me to use a brush and model paint; but recalling my paint brush skills I knew I would have to mask it, so decided if I was going that far I may as well just spray it. It would be quicker and look better.

BTW: When are you going to change your avatar from Kadie's buggy to your project?

 

[1tonyj]

lol..I do need to do that.....just a pic of a pile of expensive parts!ha

 

[ridered3]

Looking forward to a good LJ build!

Who knew stock Rubicon axles weren't the cats meow?

 

[Diamond B]

They actually lasted pretty well until I got to 35's. Then I quickly went through the stock stuff and ended up with chromoloy axles, sleeves in the tubes and gussets on the inner "C". Everything has its breaking point and I kept pushing until I found them. Had I not bent the lower part of the "C" I would not be converting to tons.

 

[Crawl Works]

Nice plan I love LJ's and I may add that you have one of the rarer LJ's made only 1000 to my knowledge.

 

[Diamond B]

Correct; 1000 Sahara Rubicon Unlimiteds made all in 2005.
I bought it used in '07 and didn't know anything about the limited edition piece until several months after I got. once I knew about it, I did some research and determined mine was #369. They made 2 dash plaques for each one. The first was sent in abox to teh dealer with the Jeep and the second kept as a replacement. Since the dealer didn't put mine on I ordered it and put it on the dash. Never made much difference to me though as I bought it to wheel it and build it. Just never really pictured it going this far. I've wondered though if I should take the the badge off the dash; there is very little Sahara, if any, left on it and the 4.1 t-case is the only thing part of the Rubicon left.

 

[redmanyj]

you need to just go ahead and spring for some coilovers since you are going this far. that would be !!!!

 

[Diamond B]

you need to just go ahead and spring for some coilovers since you are going this far. that would be !!!!

Funny you should mention that: 16" Profender 2" coilovers. 2 lightly used, 2 new: The boxes are the DOM for steering links and control arms

I have Evan's old axle ready to go under the back: Dana 60 with RCV, 5.13 and a grizzly locker. Although the truss may be a little too tall. We won't know until we get everything mocked up and cycle through the suspension

 

[ridered3]

They actually lasted pretty well until I got to 35's. Then I quickly went through the stock stuff and ended up with chromoloy axles, sleeves in the tubes and gussets on the inner "C". Everything has its breaking point and I kept pushing until I found them. Had I not bent the lower part of the "C" I would not be converting to tons.

Me thinks the tons is a better choice!

 

[redmanyj]

Yep, i would chop that truss down as low as possible to keep a much clearance as possible. Plus you don't want your **** all jacked up in the air like Evan's. He might as well have a mud truck.

 

[EGarner]

That truss should have been cut down before it was put on there!! Live and learn Cut that thing down Rob

No more mud truck :****: The buggy well we will just have to see what happens it should be ready for a test this weekend. Did you get the atlas installed yet?

 

[redmanyj]

hell no. waiting on Jamie as usual. ha ha.

 

[ALLJ]

Them 16s gonna be pretty tall under the hood if you trying to keep it low

 

[Diamond B]

Yeah once we get everything mocked up into place, I may have to punch through the hood a little. I want to keep avoid that but if I have to I don't want to go more than about 2 inches above. More than that and we'll look at alternatives. The fronts are on backorder for another 2 weeks, so if necessary I may be abelto get them swapped before shipping if I have to go that route. The rears are used so we'll either make do or I'll pony up for 2 new ones. Just have to see how everything looks once we set it up.

 

[redmanyj]

Rob, I'm only running 14's all the way around. I would suggest swapping the fronts to 14's while you have the chance. Otherwise you will have that 16 compressed so much that you won't have any up travel, it will all be down. Thas is just a waste of shock. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Diamond B]

Thanks, I'll see what i can do. I have wondered if the 16's be too long

 

[Diamond B]

Been a little slow on the progress front but I did get the rear coilovers swapped out for 14's. My wheels came in (40x13.50x17 Toyo Mts) and got them mounted up on teh beadlocks above. I think they came out nice.

We took two and put them in position as a teaser:

Looks like we will need to bring the body up a little and the C/O's will punch through the tub behind the rear seat back line and through the hood a little. I would rather do that have it sitting super high. As long as I can maximize the full length of the shock without having the hoops stick way up though the hood; hopefully no more than about 3 inches or so. I really don't want to have to buy another set of coilovers and then try to sell these especially since I am running out funds for extra purchases.

Anyone need a set of TJ Rubicon/Sahara Seats (Khaki)...Help a build out. Not sure when the next update is but it should links mocked up and the heights set.