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NP 205 help (UPDATED)

uglyoffroad

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
97
I have a chevy np 205 t-case that has the 30 spline front output. I am getting new driveshafts made, and want to go to 1410 joints. It seems my only option is to go to the 32 spline front output in order to get a 1410 yoke. I have ordered the front output, but I noticed that the seal diameter is different, so I ordered a seal and gasket kit for a 205 off ebay. Figured I would need it anyway when installing the front output. Does anyone know if I will have to order a special seal, and is there anything else on the t-case I am going to have to change in order to use the 32 spline front output. Thx
 
Re: NP 205 help

Great question...I just broke a 30 spline front on my 205...I think the 32 spline will bolt right up. I will let you know if I get to mine before you tear into yours.
 
Re: NP 205 help

I had to change the cover that holds the seal, and make sure you buy the forged 1410 yokes, if you buy regular ones your just going to be wasting money. Eor has good prices on them.
 
Re: NP 205 help

I think the rear seal is what you have to use in the front when you change to 32 spline front output
 
Re: NP 205 help

Elliott said:
I had to change the cover that holds the seal, and make sure you buy the forged 1410 yokes, if you buy regular ones your just going to be wasting money. Eor has good prices on them.

Were you swapping out a 10 or 30 spline output shaft? From the pics I see the 10 spline looks totally different from the others. The 30 and 32 spline look very similar.

workinman789 said:
I think the rear seal is what you have to use in the front when you change to 32 spline front output

Thanks, makes sense since the rear is 32 spline.
 
Re: NP 205 help

I was in the same boat and was going to swap to a 32 spline front output. I decided to go with a 1350 CV eliminator flange from Denny's driveshafts for now to see how it holds up.
 
Re: NP 205 help

XJ savage said:
I was in the same boat and was going to swap to a 32 spline front output. I decided to go with a 1350 CV eliminator flange from Denny's driveshafts for now to see how it holds up.
Not a bad idea. I had not seen those yet. I already have 1410 joints everywhere else, so that would become the fuse in the drivetrain that should break first.
 
Re: NP 205 help

Precisely. Would a 1350 Spicer break before a 30 spline 205 output?.... I'm about to find out. :****:
 
Re: NP 205 help

I found the answer to my own question here. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/transfercaseparts.htm Also found a good breakdown of the 205 t-case here. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260862 More good tech info here as well http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-0505-np205-transfer-case/ Basically the answer is that the front output is a direct swap from 10 spline 30 spline, and 32 spline. The only extra part needed is a different seal. workinman789 was correct in saying that when you swap to the 32 spline output you have to use a rear output seal for the front output. Some guys are actually cutting up the cv's and eliminating the cv all together and therefore ending up with a non-cv 1350 driveshaft, which seems to work well, for some, but I only want to do this once so I am going ahead and swapping the output to a 32 spline output, and use a 1410 yoke. From what I read you can actually swap the front output on a np 205 t-case without even removing it from the vehicle. Once I attempt this myself, I will post back up to confirm all this information.

FYI, I did find out the swapping the front input shaft can involve having to mill the case to accept a larger bearing.
 
Re: NP 205 help

If you have room you can swap it in the vehicle, but I know I had to swap the seal retainer also.
 
Re: NP 205 help

Elliott said:
If you have room you can swap it in the vehicle, but I know I had to swap the seal retainer also.

Do you remember what what was different about the seal retainer on yours?
 
Re: NP 205 help

I just did this guys in a Chevy 205. Went from 30 spline front output to Ford 32 spline front output. No need to change the retainer. Only the seal. The seal is the SAME seal that goes in the back. ITs a pretty straight forward swap other than dealing with the stupid needle bearings....grease the **** out of them to keep em put. I didnt have to mill anything. Only milling that I can recall is when you go to a 32 spline FRONT INPUT. If you got any specific questions shoot me a msg.
 
Re: NP 205 help

It was already out. I guess you could probably do it in the truck but it would probably suck. Basically pull front yoke, back cover and pull it apart. Get the front output out of there and replace with new one and put together in reverse. Of course that is the quick version of it. The needle bearings will make you cuss and drink whiskey though.
 
Re: NP 205 help

Just out of curiosity and future reference, which if not all ford 205s are 32 spline front output?
 
Re: NP 205 help

I see good deals on divorce mount fords a good bit. I would venture to say theyre 32 spline all the way around.
 
I finally got this done today. The ford output slips right in place of the chevy front output. I did not have any problems with the needle bearings. Just used a little assembly lube to keep them in place. I did the swap without dropping the t-case from my buggy. Once you remove the rear cover, the complete output assembly will pull right out. No need to even remove the shift forks. Here are a few tips for those who may want to do this.
#1 Once you remove the output shaft disassemble it on a bench with a rag under it so the needle bearing do not go everywhere when you remove the Gear.

#2 A large heavy duty pair of snap ring pliers would be helpful, and make removal of the snap ring easier, but I did it with a standard pair. Just be ready to use a couple of screwdrivers to assist with removal and install of the snap ring on the output.

#3 Even though you do not have to remove the output bearing retainer on the front of the t-case to remove the output shaft it is nearly impossible to put it back together without removing it. It probably does not need to be removed if your t-case is out of the vehicle, but its impossible to get everything lined up if you decide to do the swap without removing the t-case from the vehicle. If I would have done this to start with I could have done the swap in less than an hour. Took me an extra hour to finally decide to remove the front bearing retainer, and then everything fell into place in about 10 minutes.

#4 You must use a rear output shaft seal , and a rear output shaft nut on the 32 spline front output. The 30 spline or is smaller on both parts. I ordered a complete gasket kit off ebay for about $12. (this will give you extra gaskets and seals to save for later if needed) Denneys driveshafts has the output shaft nuts for $2,25 each plus shipping.

BTW if anyone wants to upgrade from a 10 spline to a 30 spline I have everything including gaskets, seals, flange with bolts, Nut, and even a brand new cv driveshaft that I can make someone a good deal on. (PM for price)
 
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