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Pics of your shops/garages/specs

The contractor that poured my pad highly recommended this product so I'm gonna give it a try.

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slravenel said:
Yea I was going to ask that...coverage amounts laughing1

Maybe I can split with someone or something...Either way it still isn't THAT expensive, especially if it totally seals and protects the concrete. Do you have any pictures of it in your shop? I am always more interested in real life pictures rather than company advertisement pics...I know enough to know I wont have as much success as they do when I apply it laughing1

I'll get some picts this weekend.
Where product like work best is stain resistance, no tire marks and dust proofing. The thing with the stain part is, it's resistance not stain proof. You have remove what ever you've spilt...But you have a lot longer time frame to do so before it stain permanently.
 
Jduck said:
The contractor that poured my pad highly recommended this product so I'm gonna give it a try.

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That's 25% solids cure and seal ( The higher the solids content, the higher the gloss, 30% is about max ) Cure and seals are used right after the concrete has been finished. It helps with the curing and it also helps with stains, dust proofing end of it too. But the big difference between a cure and seal and a penetrating sealer is how long it's going to last before you have to reapply. In sunlight or where there's heavy foot traffic, you might need to recoat every two or three years. Think of it like nail polish...It mostly just sits on top and wears off over time.
Where as a penetrating sealant works it way deeper into the concrete and and blocks liquid, dust and hardens the surface layer and is permanent so no need to reapply later.
One other thing is the sealer above is a solvent based sealer....It's flammable and it stinks to high hell and is for outside only. Penetrating sealers have no smell and can be used both inside and outside.
On a side note, stay away from water based sealers.....They don't work worth a ****. ( You'll be lucky to get a year out of it ) Easy way to tell the difference in the two is the water based come in a plastic bucket.....Solvent based come in metal buckets.
 
The first 8' I used OSB board cause it's harder to knock a hole in and easier to hang things on. The rest of the way up and the ceiling I used drywall.
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

Jduck said:
What is preferred for interior walls? Plywood or Sheetrock?

You aren't gonna leave it open and just do liner panels? Most liner panels are 8' tall, you can easily screw 2x4' into them and hang shelving or whatever else you need to hang. My buddy screwed in a bunch of vertical 2x4 pieces to hang all his Alabama pictures on. Row Tahde.....haha.

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Re:

Behind the liner panels, at ground level they are screwed to the rat-guard piece of angle. Mid ways up they are screwed to a girt, and there is another girt at the very top they are screwed to as well, so they are really sturdy to hang **** on, and won't damage over time.

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I noticed that after welding on my small welding table that my drywall isnt going to last very long from slag and sparks from fab work... Much less me rolling the table around and bumping the corners into the walls... Any recommendations on some kind of protection for the walls other than plywood? Just the lower half.
 
Re: Re: Pics of your shops/garages/specs

94xjsport94 said:
I noticed that after welding on my small welding table that my drywall isnt going to last very long from slag and sparks from fab work... Much less me rolling the table around and bumping the corners into the walls... Any recommendations on some kind of protection for the walls other than plywood? Just the lower half.
Linerrrr panels! Lol. Everybody that gets a metal shop around here gets em done inside.

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TacomaJD said:
Linerrrr panels! Lol. Everybody that gets a metal shop around here gets em done inside.

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Sooo

Tin on the inside.

That's what I did.


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Not really, you can build anything onto it to make hanging things easier. Just have to approach it differently. I probably will opt for more free standing shelving. Then you can hang a piece of peg board on it behind your work bench, plywood, osb, or whatever. You can run vertical 2x4's every couple feet, then run some more horizontally on top of them, then build hanging shelves or cabinets off of that, or whatever else you can think of.

Really only have a few things to put on the wall, sheetrock, wood, or metal. Not much other options lol.

Everybody wants something different though. Deck everything with osb if you want to be able to walk to the wall, run a 2" wood screw in it so you can hang a fan belt on it. Lol. I suppose you could put 8' sheets of osb up in the same fashion the metal liner panels are in the pics I posted, without having to frame out a stud wall. But to me, you build an all metal shop, I'd opt for the metal liner panels and work around them. But thats just me.

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I have pallet racking for shelving and hangers for garden tools are just screwed into the wood behind the metal.

Never really wanted to build shelving into the walls


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I have the pallet rack shelving from Menards and I love it. Right now this place is a mess but, here is what I have.

As you can see i am just now putting up another 16' I still have the doors and drawers to install.
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Jduck said:
The tin looks like it'd be a pain the ass to hang stuff up.

My shop is done this way and I love it. Tek screw to the wall and hang stuff up. But I have all my tools in boxes so there's not much other than signs on the walls. Wipes off easy with brake cleaner too.
 

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