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The Dirt Squirrel v. 2.0 -- Even Dirtier

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
The time has come to build something new. The previous version was built up in the usual Toyota way; 4.3L/th350/4.7s/yota axles/37s. After 4 years and a few axle shafts later my right foot won the battle and I swapped in tons, then 44s, then LS power, then links, then Atlas, then 43s. Now that I have all of this I find myself doing stupider and stupider stuff. I have a cage but i dont feel safe enough. That brings us to what I have planned with version 2.0.

Full new chassis w/ tube everywhere, ie., interior cage, bed cage, engine cage, subframe, etc. I am using another '82 first gen cab and bed because first gens are the best. My plan is to make the cab easy to remove for when its raisin'd to ****.

Specs will be as follows. Im using all the parts from the last build with the exception of a few surprises down the road.

Specs:
1982 Toyota 2wd cab/bed/fenders/etc (keeping windshield for sure)
2x3x.188 tube frame with 2x2x.188 subframe lower
Cage work will all be 1.75x.120 DOM

Drivetrain:
Engine: '05 LQ4 w/ TBSS intake, 42lb marine injectors, 92mm Nick Williams TB, headers, PSC p-pump, Team208Motorsports tuned to 425hp/425/tq
Transmission: Stock 4l60e with a fat cooler
Transfer Case: Atlas 2-Spd 4.3

Axles:
Front: Chevy D60 w/ Reid knuckles and bronze bushings, 5.13s, welded, flanges, RCV shafts, PSC DE 2.75"x8 ram
Rear: Chevy Van 14B, 5.13s, Spool

Suspension: 4-link front and rear w/ 16" coilovers and bumps, 2.25"x.3875" DOM lower links, 1.25" RuffStuff heims everywhere

Wheels/Tires: 17" Racelines and 43" SX stickies

Interior: Winters shifter, PRP daily driver seats, 12Voltguy panel, Tablet gauges, some decent tunes

Im sure some of you have been following along with my other thread, but of not, here is what I am robbing all the parts off of.

Its going to be tough to cut it up but its had a good run.
First edition out the gate:


Current. Im sure some have seen pics of it:



Now onto the new. This is my first shot at a full custom frame and chassis. After doing some reading and checking out some of the awesome here and in Gen4x4, i figured i'd give it a shot. I plan on giving my dimensions for everything.

The start of the main frame rails. The front rise is 4" more than what I had. I hope this will give me more up travel. Shooting for 6-7" up, 9-10" down. Previous was about 3-4" due to engine being in the way.


Some crossmembers (the rear two are temporary). My frame rails are 28" wide to accommodate for when the Atlas is clocked near flat.



Flipped it over for the start of the subframe. Im shooting for a 117-120" wheelbase and low as possible without dragging belly everywhere. The subframe is 9" from the bottom of the frame rails to the top of the lower 2x2 square tube. I used some .188 tube i had laying around as well.

First location was too far back. I have since moved the body up and down and moved it up about 10". Plan is to use my existing links, as they were pretty pricey.



Donor '82 that I picked up for $400. Keeping sheet metal only and selling/scrapping the rest. Pretty clean except for some rot in the cab floors.


Well that took care of the rust. Cut out the floor and most of the firewall.



Leveled as close as possible (this isnt a race car...yet :evil::


First try at setting it on the frame. Set another 60 I have up front that I plan on rebuilding and swapping all the other goodies I have, since i plan on switching over to a 4-link. Using an artec truss and ram mount to match the rear.


Here I moved the cab forward, which made me move the subframe forward as well.


Subframe and axle moved up. Its past full bump. Will have to move down some once I get the truss on there. Started on my lower link placement as well.


Putting the fender on shows how low it will be at bump. I will be doing an aggressive dove front and rear. Still keeping the fenders, bedsides, tailgate, hood, grille, etc. Want it to look similar to the old, but much more streamlined.


A few design thoughts I am having:
-Engine will be set back in the cab and down low to clear everything.
-I may chop off some of the lower subframe since I have 3" of frame rail to play with. Goal is to have a flat floor with small trans hump.
-Shooting for as much headroom as possible with the interior cage.
-Possibly a rear radiator like previous, but may try and squeeze something up front.
-Upgrading to a LII tank setup and internal plumbing to have the feed draw from the bottom of the tank.
-Profit?

I hope to have this thing back on the trail by the Katemcy Rocks K2 opening weekend in February, with it moving on its own in December for the annual WFW / Toys for Tots drive.
 

mcutler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
1,046
Location
Mayberry
I like seeing this trend. Good work so far.

You'll need about 12-13" from skid to top of frame for a true flat interior. What worked best for me was to 1-choose a wheelbase and belly height; 2-know your wheel travel (or shock travel if mounted 1to1.) 3-start at bump, build entire truck around your bump and belly height, put engine wherever it fits for the geometry you desire. Don't be afraid to sit beside the motor....lol- or have the passenger straddle it


Looking like a great start. Subbed!

Don't forget, you need 3" between your helmet and cage...can't leave that out of the layout.

Matt
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
mcutler said:
I like seeing this trend. Good work so far.

You'll need about 12-13" from skid to top of frame for a true flat interior. What worked best for me was to 1-choose a wheelbase and belly height; 2-know your wheel travel (or shock travel if mounted 1to1.) 3-start at bump, build entire truck around your bump and belly height, put engine wherever it fits for the geometry you desire. Don't be afraid to sit beside the motor....lol- or have the passenger straddle it


Looking like a great start. Subbed!

Don't forget, you need 3" between your helmet and cage...can't leave that out of the layout.

Matt

Thanks for the input. Ive been following your build since you started it. This has been in my mind for a while and am now just getting started.

Currently i have 3" frame, 9" drop, 2" lower subframe rails, total of 14". Im shooting for flat frame under the seats to keep them as low as possilbe. Tranny tunnel/engine doghouse isnt a big deal. I had to get creative with my seat mounts in the previous setup. Trying to avoid that this time around.

Doubt ill race this rig. More for trail riding and for general offroad beat downs. Just want to be able to roll it back over and not have to worry about it. Currently I dont have that peace of mind.
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
They are commonly referred to framing studs around here. The pink is to help protect it against rot and fire protection as stated above. They are also cut shorter than 8ft to allow for the top and bottom 2x4/6 to make up the additional height. That way a 4x8 sheet of plywood will fit perfect and you dont have to trim down every stud by ~3".
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
Been busy with work offshore in Venezuela so ive only had time to do some web research and see how I want to do things. Found lots of good info from many different builds on here and cant wait to get back to implement them. Also took advantage of Dan's birthday sale at Ruffstuff and ordered some brackets/tabs/tube disconnects for everything. I want to be able to remove the atlas form the bottom so have removable crossmembers is going to be nice. Also picked up a larger orbital off the classifieds. No more 5.5 turns lock to lock.
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
sleepsontoilet said:
Now you just need to snag that crawler hauler...

Ive been looking hard at Rooney's setup. Just need to sell the dually and its probably on. Ive been looking at all options, i.e. motorhome and car hauler, redneck hauler with cab over like yours, or something like Rooney has. Ive found a couple smaller campers that i could mount of the front. Just need to find a gooseneck first. I get bored offshore, so i have plenty of time to research.

Im glad your rig didnt squish you. loller.gif
 

sleepsontoilet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
801
Location
Humble, TX
the_white_shadow said:
Ive been looking hard at Rooney's setup. Just need to sell the dually and its probably on. Ive been looking at all options, i.e. motorhome and car hauler, redneck hauler with cab over like yours, or something like Rooney has. Ive found a couple smaller campers that i could mount of the front. Just need to find a gooseneck first. I get bored offshore, so i have plenty of time to research.

Im glad your rig didnt squish you. loller.gif

I was checking full bump :****:

I've been eyeing his style for mine, but from pictures the layout makes it appear smaller than my 9'. I guess I'll either keep mine or look at enclosed in a year or two. I've had a few offers for mine, but that messcan gives me evil looks. I saw some for $8199 for a 32', but don't know much about the brands or if she'll leak so much it wreaks inside.
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
sleepsontoilet said:
I was checking full bump :****:

I've been eyeing his style for mine, but from pictures the layout makes it appear smaller than my 9'. I guess I'll either keep mine or look at enclosed in a year or two. I've had a few offers for mine, but that messcan gives me evil looks. I saw some for $8199 for a 32', but don't know much about the brands or if she'll leak so much it wreaks inside.

I havent been considering enclosed trailers. Mine always seems to be to wide or too tall for them. If you decide to sell yours, id be interested.

here is a decent enclosed one thats already built out inside.
http://houston.craigslist.org/tro/5716383282.html
 

sleepsontoilet

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Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
801
Location
Humble, TX
the_white_shadow said:
I havent been considering enclosed trailers. Mine always seems to be to wide or too tall for them. If you decide to sell yours, id be interested.

here is a decent enclosed one thats already built out inside.
http://houston.craigslist.org/tro/5716383282.html
I had a buddy offer to buy it last night, Jackie wasn't amused. She told me pick a trailer and chill. I agree that's a fair price, put that's a lot of weight on a bumper pull. The dually could do it, but i wouldn't want one that long and not be a gooseneck.
 

the_white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
816
sleepsontoilet said:
I had a buddy offer to buy it last night, Jackie wasn't amused. She told me pick a trailer and chill. I agree that's a fair price, put that's a lot of weight on a bumper pull. The dually could do it, but i wouldn't want one that long and not be a gooseneck.

I hear ya. happy wife, happy life. i found a 16" bumper trailer that I may snag if its still there when i get back. Its older but is fully self contained and had a stand up, separate shower inside. Just need to find a trailer. Since you FB, keep an eye out for a 28-30ft goose for me.
 

sleepsontoilet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
801
Location
Humble, TX
the_white_shadow said:
I hear ya. happy wife, happy life. i found a 16" bumper trailer that I may snag if its still there when i get back. Its older but is fully self contained and had a stand up, separate shower inside. Just need to find a trailer. Since you FB, keep an eye out for a 28-30ft goose for me.
If you need me to go look at it, let me know. The problem with bigger than 25' is they're triple axle or dual tandem. I would worry breaking 10k with that weight capacity and no cdl. Just my luck, I'd catch a LEO on a bad day. I think I'm under, definitely gonna have to weigh it next time I'm loaded.
 

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