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Sold/Expired The Moto-Gote 2x2 Project

muttman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
109
Location
Guntersville
Howdy Y'all,
I built a M151 buggy and hauled it around everywhere, but I got tired of the expense and hassle and sold it. So now I still have the itch to hit the woods, but nothing to wheel, so I have decided to build a fat tire 2wd trail bike. This will be my first 2 wheeled project. In fact I have only ridden a motorcycle once and crashed almost immediately...... but I'll figure it out. I'm thinking I will call it the Moto-Gote.


Here is what I have so far:

1984 Honda atc125m for the engine/trans
25x13-9 Duro hf243 4 ply tires on 9x9 wheels
1000 lb capacity trailer hubs/spindles
6" Airheart discs and mechanical calipers
Tractor PTO overrunning coupler
1" keyed U-joint
Buttload of sprockets, bearings, chain, and keyed shafting


The Plan:

Widen the wheels 4" to 13". Scratch built frame, no suspension, only tire flex and a sprung seat. The forks and rear "arm" will be single sided. Inboard mechanical brakes. And of course a winch and snorkle. 1" jackshafts and #50 chain. I'm building this thing for extreme abuse.


Pics:

Good running donor. Electric start 4 speed with hi/low range. This thing is stupid fast in hi range.




Wrinkly tires.....had to use the lighter fluid bead setting technique.


25x13-9 compared to 22x11-8 from the three wheeler.


Here is most of the guts.






Tractor pto overrunning coupler to allow the front wheel to go faster than the rear in a turn. I plan on cutting it down and welding on a sprocket.
 
One of my major concerns is the steering geometry on this thing. I want it to be as stable and predictable as possible. I'm have a pretty good grasp of car steering geometry, but basically ignorant when it comes to bikes. In the little research I have done, I found that the "trail" or "mechanical trail" measurement is extremely important in determining handling characteristics. There is no suspension movement to factor in and it will never be ridden very fast. So my question is what is a good baseline trail measurement to shoot for? The forks will pivot on 2-3/4" heims so I can get the steering u joint centered, this will also allow for some adjustment of the fork rake.
 
Here are the widened wheels 9" x 9" to 9" x 13". I rolled a piece of 4" flatbar and sectioned it into the wheels. Ended up with less than 1/8" runout on both of them so Im happy.




 
Not sure how I missed this thread. Glad you posted the pic in the random thread. This thing is gonna be cool when you get it finished up :driving:
 
The mutt after I first got it going..... first mod, snorkle :smoke:

100_0255.jpg


Suspension.


DSCN0544.jpg


DSCN0543.jpg



Just "finished"

DSCN0917.jpg



Puttin a beat down on her.






Last I saw it. Guy bought it for his daughter..... I told him it's a bitch to drive.




Full build:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/805076-m-151-build-thread.html
 
BlackYJ said:
Josh this could be the idea that kills you

Don't worry, I'll usually be drinking when I ride.....you know, for super drunk strength, super drunk coordination, and mostly super drunk luck. :drinkers:
 
Do yall think this will be a strong enough way to mount the sprocket to the hub? Also consider the extra forces from inboard brakes.



It will use four 1/2" fine all thread, or if I have to I can cut threads in some long grade 8 bolts. The distance from the back face of the hub to the sprocket is about 3".
 
I think it would be strong enough. How hard will it be to true the wheels for run out? Maybe put a dial indicator on wheel or hub. I would want to run indicator on hub but I don't think that will be an option with the bolts in. Unless you take the wheel off. It is going to be cool.
 
I already did the wheel centers, they are as true as original, which is not saying much.

The hub is threaded so the bolts(all thread) will be screwed into the hub with a jam nut on the back or they could just be welded to the hub. The bolts will then effectively be the hub studs and the wheel can come off and on without disturbing the sprocket/chain. This also means I can true the sprocket to the hub without worrying about the wheel.
 

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