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Tj 1ton brake Question... Can’t Get A Firm peddle

00BIRMINGHAMTJ

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Jul 22, 2008
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531
“HELP” MILLION DOLLAR Brake Question. I know this has been discussed 100 times. I’ve got a 03 1ton TJ on 42s. D60 Front Crept 14rear. So when this was originally done the brakes worked great, well we made some changes one being I flipped the rear calipers around to front axle and yes I swapped sides so bleeders are on top, second installed new stainless steel brake lines to 1” longer ones well after all that the peddle is kinda spongy like and it don’t wanna stop well it stops just have to have the damn peddle pressed through the fire wall to stop. So what is the REAL fix to make my brakes slide or throw you through the windshield I want the brakes to be no question once I fix this. Please any input would be great. Thanks
 

TBItoy

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Jul 2, 2010
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10,609
Location
Dodson Branch, TN
So they worked great before?

Sounds like you got a bad master or booster. May have "went bad" while it was parked during the changes... or something is wrong with the new lines you put on (collapsed/overcrimped/obstructed somehow)
 

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
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Dec 7, 2014
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Location
Amish Country
From what I can tell, the only right answer is hydroboost. Mine are manual and are ok but hydro should feel like any other street vehicle.
 

bgredjeep

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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
662
Since this is on a TJ I presume you are running a booster. What MC are you running? What calipers on front and rear?
 

00BIRMINGHAMTJ

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Jul 22, 2008
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531
From what I can tell, the only right answer is hydroboost. Mine are manual and are ok but hydro should feel like any other street vehicle.

Yeah trying to decide if I wanna go on and drop 7-800 on that. Everyone on other forums are screaming a 99-02 I think dodge 2500-3500 m/c and a long bolt
 

GSI

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Nov 14, 2016
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61
Location
Gurley, AL
The dodge master with that setup works well on a TJ. The calipers and master cylinder sized need to be kinda matched. If I remember correctly, the 3500 version has a larger reservoir. A pressure bleeder also really helps to get all the air out.
 

The Luke

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Dec 12, 2010
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4,136
I did the 3500 mc with larger bolt. I love it. Feels better than a stock pedal for the most part. I’ve also got the dual diaphragm booster. That makes a big difference.
 

The Luke

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Dec 12, 2010
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I’m sure other vehicles had them too. Xj’s has a single diaphragm and a dual diaphragm booster. The dual is about double the size. They take a lot less vacuum to produce more pressure for four wheel disc brakes compared to drum brakes.
 

bgredjeep

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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
662
Yeah, the factory MC is too small for sure with those calipers. I'm running the Dodge master like others have mentioned and it works great. It's a good match to the tj booster as well since it uses an o-ring seal.

 

00BIRMINGHAMTJ

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Jul 22, 2008
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531
UPDATE: (10/9/19) So after I went and bought a Dodge “01” Model Master Cylinder Got Back Mine Actually already had one so we pulled it apart and it had the factory bolt/plunge thing inside so I got a new 1/4”x1-3/4” cut head and rounded fit it to right specs that took a lot of peddle travel out so in a listing I found off of pirate 4x4 site there was a guy on there saying on the factory proportional valve that square block thing to pull apart remove spring and the little shaft in there and remove the Black Rubber O-Ring and put back together didn’t specify if you were supposed to put spring back in so we did & the shaft put all back together & bled with a snap on power bleeder started at passenger rear worked our way around appears to have all air out. Well now I can go down the road hit brakes it locks the rear tires up but not the front. So what do I need to do at this point to get all 4 to lock up and slide or to have firm equal pressure front and back to stop. Also 6spd manual put in 4 low let off hold brakes to floor it will not hold the Jeep in place it still has the power to move through the brakes??? Any help here will be appreciated.
 

The Luke

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Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,136
Sounds like you need to add a proportioning valve in to balance some of that pressure out. That’s the only way I would know how.
 

Jduck

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Jan 11, 2011
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1,018
Location
Athens, GA
Did you drive it after putting in the correct length push rod and before you gutted the proportioning valve?
 

bgredjeep

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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
662
Sounds like it'll do great front digs. Also, why are you trying to stop a manual trans rig with it in gear? I know some people have had issues stopping in Auto rigs with low gears and low stall, but I don't recall seeing anyone trying with a manual, cause that whole clutch thing.
 

bgredjeep

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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
662
Also, I do run a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in my rig. For $0 I'd try to put the parts back in your distribution block first and see if that gets you where you want it.
 

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