Inner AirLocks

You guys probably know how to install stuff but I gotta pimp my new sponsor and show of a cheaper alternative that's out there now

Inner Airlock Install



Tube info:
This picture shows a heavy-duty tube (nearest) and a standard tube (farthest)



Heavy-duty on the left and standard on the right
(standard tube has powder on it already)
EDIT: I'm not sure anymore which is which!


Both tubes are the same size and there isn't much visible difference between the two. However you can definitely feel the difference in rubber thickness. Both tubes can be purchased at most atv or motorsports stores as they are a typically motocross inner tube. I found that my local store had the standard tubes in stock for $4.25 each and had to order the heavy-duty ones for $15 each and took 2 days. We will be installing 2 heavy-duty tubes in the front tires and 2 standard tubes in the rear. We also picked up a few spare standard tubes for a demo model and just in case.

The Airlocks come with special valve stems to install in your rims



The cuts in the backside of the valve are to allow air to get from the underside of the tube to inside of the tire. Remember these inner tubes are not inflating your tires they only hold the bead on the rim.

Special note: Replace your valve stems! We used rubber valve stems and scored them with a cut-off wheel -- AFTER installing a complete tire and Airlock only to find the valve stem was cut and leaking.



Rubber o-rings are also supplied with the Airlocks



We've found it best to install one o-ring on the inside of the rim and one on the outside of the rim and then use the 2 nuts supplied with the tube to hold the tube valve stem in place and seal the hole.

Note: We tried to leave one nut on the inside of the rim and the other on the outside like you would on a motorcycle tire, but with an aluminum rim this left the valve stem too short to work with the air chuck.

Now its time to start the install!

Determine a suitable location for your second valve stem to go. Try to protect it as far back into the rim as possible but remember you have to clear brake and steering components on both front and rear axles. It is recommended to install them 180 degrees from the original valve stem.

We found a spot between the spokes of our aluminum rims that we think will be protected fairly well and we can still easily get an air chuck on it.





Mark and measure twice!
Center punch and drill your hole.
We used a 5/16" drill bit.
Make sure to de-bur your hole.
Also now is a good time to check your rims for nicks, cuts or rust etc. Remember an inner tube will be riding on this rim and the smoother the surface the less likely you are to have a failure out on the trail. Clean the rims up the best you can.

Install you special valve stems into the original location.
Start mounting your tire – slip one bead over the rim.
Now coat the inside of the casing with the supplied powder.
Next install the Inner Airlock casing into the tire and on the rim



The first half should just be able to slip around the rim by hand with a little coaxing.

Now it's time for the tube
Lube it up with the supplied powder.
Install one o-ring on the valve stem.
We put a dab of silicone on the o-ring to help seal the tube to the rim.



Install the valve stem first – Trust me it's easier to do first, I learned the hard way!


There plenty of room to get to it with only ½ the tire on the rim.


Install another o-ring on the outside, dab of silicone and install one of the nuts. Don't over tighten this nut, your only holding on a tube. Watch the valve stem and try not to let it twist because you'll be twisting up your tube. Now push the rest of the tube in the air lock

Now install the second half of the Inner Airlock casing



The flap that you see needs to be positioned at the rims original valve stem location and the center of the to strips of material centered on the special valve stem. Now fold the flap under the inner tube (between rim and tube)

Here you can see we're not quite lined up and we have to shift the Airlock casing to line up.


Now install the second half of the casing.
The second half of the casing bead should also be able to installed by hand with a little more effort than the first. In the picture you see a tire iron being used but it's just for the picture and not much force is being applied to the casing. The casing is strong but you don't want to be ripping on it with a tire iron. It will go on by hand when in the right position. The first one you do might seem hard but once you figure out the positioning and procedure it's a breeze.



Try to fold over the inner lip as shown in the photo to let it slide over the rim easier. Also positioning the opposite side near the middle of the rim where it's smaller allows you more "slack" on the last bit your installing.

Now go around the rim and check that the tube is inside of the casing.


check with your hand that all you feel is rim and casing and no tube. If the tube is exposed tuck it back into the casing. If you can push the tire enough you can see most of the casing so visually check that no tube is exposed.

At this point we chose to slightly inflate the tube and recheck everything. Just 1-3psi (didn't even register on our gauge) This will help the tube untwist and form to the rim and casing. We rechecked everything and removed the tube valve core to deflate it.

Now install the final bead of the tire.



Man I wish I had a tire machine!

Now check that there is not material between the bead of the tire and the rim

Like this



That's the backside of the flap – it's between the tire and the rim, simply push the tire down and fold it back inside the tire.

Inflate the inner airlock to 15-18 psi to aid in seating the bead of the tires. If you think you tube is all twisted up inside it is best to do this in 5-7 psi increments and deflate the tube between each step to let it untwist and make sure everything is ok. We did 10 psi, deflate and then 18.



Next inflate your tire till both beads seat; if necessary you can aid this a little with help from the Inner Airlocks. Now inflate the inner airlocks to 25psi and then your tires to whatever pressure you want to run.

Check for leaks and repeat 3-4 more times and your ready to wheel with full beadlocks on inner and outer beads!

And here's our display model



Leah painted up the rim to make so it didn't look as bad as it did

You can really see how this thing works and the casing keeps the tube protected, in place and directs the pressure to the beads where it is needed.

This one is aired up to 25 psi and it's ROCK hard!

One thing we didn't mention in that is to powder up the tube

I'm thinkin about testing water in the tires too so that would make the powder worthless

Very intresting. I have been wanting to try some Stuans but don't like the price.

retail pricing on these

17's - $166 each
16 and 16.5's $149 each
15 - $146 each

that includes the tube and everything you need

so for a set
17's - 664
16 and 16.5's - 596
15 - 584

Catch me at an event and I can do a promotional cash price
shipping will be around $20 or less

FYI - that's our retail pricing

contact me to see what kind of promotional deals I can get you
I could definitely get a great group buy setup

Any clue how these things would do in a daily driver rig? Think it'd build up heat?

they'd be fine

why would they build up any extra heat?
I could see if you kept the air real low in the tire but that wouldn't be good anyway

I'm gonna run water in some of mine and I'm kinda interest to have someone try balancing beads or bb's in the tires on the street.

saw the display this weekend and am pretty sold on the idea I've just gotta get my monies lined up pepper.gif

we pimped the **** out of em this weekend and got a great response from everyone



but no orders - Broke ass SOB's

the cannon!!!!!
how'd it do?

and btw, Yes, I will be running these soon. I need to sell some hummers first.

will this work?

My wife started to play with the movie maker and I think it came out great!!

and yes there's 2 turret mounts on the toyota now and it's running off the yota air compressor at ~85-95psi

shooting 100+ feet and REALLY high

Do you have a size or part # for the replacement tubes?

mac5005 said:

Do you have a size or part # for the replacement tubes?

Click to expand...

I am interested too. 2008 had some great ideas that are still relevant.

lowbudgetjunk said:

I am interested too. 2008 had some great ideas that are still relevant.

Click to expand...

Haha can't say I didn't search.