anti wrap bar for my yota

dove'd85 · May 8, 2007

my rear leafs are stock waggy's with the load spring removed and buggy leafs

so my rear axle has MAJOR axle wrap. and i need to put a center link/track bar/ what ever you want to call it. should i use heims or can i just use some 1 3/4 tub on both ends with spring bushings and mount that to the tabs? pics idea's thanks :beer:

james

Pook · May 8, 2007

spring bushings work good. Not as noisy as hiems, and allow for some flex.

go with the 2 mounting points on the diff, and run it to a shackle at the frame end. Try and have it match your rear spring shackle length and angle.

crash2 · May 8, 2007

dove'd85 said:
my rear leafs are stock waggy's with the load spring removed and buggy leafs

so my rear axle has MAJOR axle wrap. and i need to put a center link/track bar/ what ever you want to call it. should i use heims or can i just use some 1 3/4 tub on both ends with spring bushings and mount that to the tabs? pics idea's thanks :beer:

james

WHY YES------Yes you do....

I use bushings on the axle side. one hiem/bushing on the frame side...

Pook · May 8, 2007

crash said:
WHY YES------Yes you do....

I use bushings on the axle side. one hiem/bushing on the frame side...

]

I use a flex joint on mine :redneck: at the shacle end.

Grommit327 · May 8, 2007

Pook said:
]

I use a flex joint on mine :redneck: at the shacle end.

Not all of us have the cash to buy those fancy flex joints :flipoff:

crash2 · May 8, 2007

Grommit327 said:
Not all of us have the cash to buy those fancy flex joints :flipoff:

And his track bar was------------bullet proof :haha: :haha: :haha:

Couldn't resist :haha:

Grommit327 · May 8, 2007

While we're on this topic...how much separation should there be between the two mounting points on the axle...and you want the lower mount so it's above the bottom of the axle tube?...to help with hangups

dobber · May 8, 2007

I did one single center one the other day on a friends truck and used two hiems. We will be adding two more on the bottom ends of the the axle because the one sigle one did not stop all the wraping, the bottom of the axle till can rotate up because his springs are so soft. this truck has worn out stock toyota springs and 4in blocks. I do not think the a single one on top will work very good with your buggle leafs because when the buggy leaf drops down the single trac bar joint on top of axle will still allow the bottom of axle to rotate forward and cause axle wrap. Thats just my experiance with single top center trac bars.

View attachment 10089

Grommit327 · May 8, 2007

dobber said:
I did one single center one the other day on a friends truck and used two hiems. We will be adding two more on the bottom ends of the the axle because the one sigle one did not stop all the wraping, the bottom of the axle till can rotate up because his springs are so soft. this truck has worn out stock toyota springs and 4in blocks. I do not think the a single one on top will work very good with your buggle leafs because when the buggy leaf drops down the single trac bar joint on top of axle will still allow the bottom of axle to rotate forward and cause axle wrap. Thats just my experiance with single top center trac bars.

View attachment 10089

Is it just me or wouldn't that cause some housing rotation during droop do to it being a different (looking for the right word) radius? than the leaf springs since there is no shackle at the crossmember? Like it would try to point the pinion up during droop as the axle moves forward?

Pook · May 8, 2007

crash said:
And his track bar was------------bullet proof :haha: :haha: :haha:

Couldn't resist :haha:

hey that was an experiment in how light it could be built. It lasted a year :flipoff:

A piece of DOM and some of your ready welding and its good to go for another year.

That poor traction bar gets abused... :booo:

Pook · May 8, 2007

Grommit327 said:
Is it just me or wouldn't that cause some housing rotation during droop do to it being a different (looking for the right word) radius? than the leaf springs since there is no shackle at the crossmember? Like it would try to point the pinion up during droop as the axle moves forward?

thats a good point too. I try and make the traction bar frame end line up close to were the front half of the leafs bolt in.

Lincolnlock · May 8, 2007

You want at least 7 inchs of seperation on the axle end. Check out the
http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11135&page=2
for some idea-ers

Grommit327 · May 8, 2007

Pook said:
thats a good point too. I try and make the traction bar frame end line up close to were the front half of the leafs bolt in.

Your's is with a shackle though...so then it wouldn't matter as much the length of the anti-wrap bar

crash2 · May 8, 2007

dobber said:
I did one single center one the other day on a friends truck and used two hiems. We will be adding two more on the bottom ends of the the axle because the one sigle one did not stop all the wraping, the bottom of the axle till can rotate up because his springs are so soft. this truck has worn out stock toyota springs and 4in blocks. I do not think the a single one on top will work very good with your buggle leafs because when the buggy leaf drops down the single trac bar joint on top of axle will still allow the bottom of axle to rotate forward and cause axle wrap. Thats just my experiance with single top center trac bars.

View attachment 10089

i RAN THAT setup--it won;t stop axle wrap but will slow it down--the front half of the leafs will bend causing the pinion to move upward..

Grommit327 · May 8, 2007

Another question since we're on this topic and I saw one break at the hammers. Pipe is obviously not the choice material to use on a anti-wrap bar...right Pook:fawkdancesmiley: ...so what size...or mainly thickness DOM should be used. I was thinking a thicker lower (like .250) since it will be abused by the rocks more and a .120 wall upper should be sufficient with proper cross bracing between the two...any suggestions

dobber · May 8, 2007

crash said:
i RAN THAT setup--it won;t stop axle wrap but will slow it down--the front half of the leafs will bend causing the pinion to move upward..

Yup, that is exactly what happened.

Nuzzy · May 8, 2007

Grommit327 said:
Another question since we're on this topic and I saw one break at the hammers. Pipe is obviously not the choice material to use on a anti-wrap bar...right Pook:fawkdancesmiley: ...so what size...or mainly thickness DOM should be used. I was thinking a thicker lower (like .250) since it will be abused by the rocks more and a .120 wall upper should be sufficient with proper cross bracing between the two...any suggestions

I've heard .250 or .280 wall for lower and as thin as .120 wall upper.

Mine will be all 1.5 .250

Pook · May 8, 2007

Grommit327 said:
Another question since we're on this topic and I saw one break at the hammers. Pipe is obviously not the choice material to use on a anti-wrap bar...right Pook:fawkdancesmiley: ...so what size...or mainly thickness DOM should be used. I was thinking a thicker lower (like .250) since it will be abused by the rocks more and a .120 wall upper should be sufficient with proper cross bracing between the two...any suggestions

Mine broke due to all the bending forces concentrated on that front bushing mount.

Mine was 1 1/2" schedule 80 top with a .25" DOM lower triangle brace. I think DOM would of broke the same way, it was just fatigued like any piece of steel that is bent back and fourth million times. Its just the low clearance design of my traction bar puts alot of stress on that point. But I bet with the lakebed fix It'll live another year without issues.

if you build it the traditional way with the mounts vertical the .120 wall should be enough for the top no rock smashing tube...

Bunk1 · May 8, 2007

Nuzzy said:
I've heard .250 or .280 wall for lower and as thin as .120 wall upper.

Mine will be all 1.5 .250

As well as anyone else who's interested. I got another 23 or so feet of it.

dove'd85 · May 8, 2007

crash said:
WHY YES------Yes you do....

I use bushings on the axle side. one hiem/bushing on the frame side...

:flipoff: ya thanks i had a nice crowd come out of the rock garden on sunday...:fawkdancesmiley: so any pics of the bar. will this limit my flex? i want to limit my flex as little as possible, but i want to get rid of my axle rap issues....:stirpot: should i angle the trac bar, i plan on running one bar to the top of the axle in the center or to the passenger side of the third and one just above the bottom of the axle right next to the third like a triangle two mounting points on the housing and one mounting point on the frame??