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I think if the crush sleeve is failing in the axle then you need to run bigger axles. Duh.

http://www.drilledheadbolts.com/D-7-16-14_c32.htm

Run a bead of GM windshield adhesive on the tire beads and mount them up.

You will need to change the pilot bearing to the bearing for the ZF, it should fit in the crank register the same as the 4 speed bearing did. When you pick it up be sure to get the clutch pedal (so you can cut the tab off it), MC, slave cylinder and lines as a unit. Do not separate the line...

I'm guessing it's the booster, but only because everything you're using besides the booster I've used on my Bronco and the brakes are awesome with 44" tires on a ~7000lb rig. The master cylinder will do just fine with GM 1/2 ton calipers in the rear.

I did this swap in my 78 Bronco. It's fun. I modified the tab on the manual clutch pedal 90 degrees to operate the hyd master cylinder with the stock pedals. Just cut off the tab from a 88+ clutch pedal and weld it to the one you have. Mount the MC on the firewall inboard of the brake booster...

I've got a set of the aluminum drive pucks. If you cant find em PM me.

a 5000rpm clutch dump should do it.

Zf5 ftw

Has anyone used one of these? Any downsides to them? I just put one in my wife's 99 Blazer (S10). It's a factory unit out of a 99 TransAm. The difference is night and day backing it up and out of our 14* driveway. She would spin tires and engage the 4WD just to get to the road several times a...

Soldered connections done correctly is better than crimped. The wires need to be spliced (twisted together) before soldering. Screw terminal switches with crimped ring terminals on the wires.

I have 44x18 TSL's with the HDPE inserts. I had to cut em down about 1 inch but it was super easy with a table saw.

Cobra 75WXST

It was a broken return spring in the starter drive letting the drive gear tap the flywheel. All better now. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!

My wife's 99 Blazer has developed a ticking noise in the bellhousing area. It's a metallic sound like a loose part getting whacked semi-randomly by the fan, but it's not near the fan. It happens all the time the motor is running, and seems to somewhat increase with speed. I have noticed some oil...

Put a 5 speed in it.

It looks to me like a 400 crank balanced for a manual flywheel. According to the machinist who re-balanced my flywheel for the 400PI engine I had in a GMC truck with a 4 speed, 400's never came with a manual transmission so he had to counterweight the flywheel. The crank in the picture...

This is the best stuff I've seen: http://www.alsliner.com/

Well, since I own a 240* die I took a look and gave it a think. It LOOKS (Haven't tried it yet) like you could bend past 180 to some extent. If you could roll the die after the bend was completed, the 120* pie cut ought to allow the die to drop free. My die is so tight to the tube it would...

How do you figure to remove the tube from the die with anything over 180* of bend?